new brake shoes versus new plate assembly

[dockmasterdave]

I checked the 10" drum brakes on my 21' TT. They are getting close to shot. I plan on replacing them before that.
My question is, are there pros and cons between just replacing the shoes, or buying the whole new backer plate already assembled ?
If you change the whole set up, what is involved in the brake wiring, IE cut and splice or unplug/plug in ? TIA

[dodge_guy]

Ok guys. I had the brakes shoes ordered, but they just told me they are on back order. They do have another set in stock, but the price is $25 more so about $120. I can get self adjusting brake assemblies for $180 (all 4 axles). This is the route I'm taking now. For $60 more it's he way to go!

[Lakeland_Bob]

I also replaced the entire backing plate on my Sunnybrook but instead of cutting the original wires off, I disassembled the original crimp on connectors.

When I reassembled them I used a grease as a water repellent as they did. No need to cut them and make the wires shorter.

[westend]

The assemblies are definitely easier for the typical DIY'er and, like stated, new springs, adjusters, magnets, and shoes. If I had a new trailer, I might buy just the shoes. It takes years of use to deteriorate the rest of the hardware.

If the OP does buy assemblies, I'd suggest that it's a good time to reconfigure the brake wiring to a "star" layout instead of the OEM "daisy chain". There will be a performance and durability increase with a "star" layout.

[dodge_guy]

Mark and Linda wrote:

dockmasterdave wrote:
I checked the 10" drum brakes on my 21' TT. They are getting close to shot. I plan on replacing them before that.
My question is, are there pros and cons between just replacing the shoes, or buying the whole new backer plate already assembled ?
If you change the whole set up, what is involved in the brake wiring, IE cut and splice or unplug/plug in ? TIA

Please post back on what you do? I just looked at Etrailer.com on their pricing....the other one posted on this thread is cheaper. I need to check my brakes also. I know the wear is like car brakes...many use them going down a hill...others just down shift to a lower gear. Always wiling to hear and learn.....

I have always used downshifting to slow down or hold a speed. Mine are 10 years old with approx. 15k miles on them. I have one brake that hangs up on occasion. When I did the wheel bearing repacks I cleaned and adjusted them and they performed great. This time when I pulled the one drum the material was disintegrating. So I just put it back together and ordered the shoes and seals. Like I previously posted. I replaced my magnets a few years ago so I know they are good. This time I'm just doing the shoes, and resurfacing the drums. if I still have the trailer for the next brake job it will get complete brake assemblies and drums.

[Mark_and_Linda]

dockmasterdave wrote:
I checked the 10" drum brakes on my 21' TT. They are getting close to shot. I plan on replacing them before that.
My question is, are there pros and cons between just replacing the shoes, or buying the whole new backer plate already assembled ?
If you change the whole set up, what is involved in the brake wiring, IE cut and splice or unplug/plug in ? TIA

Please post back on what you do? I just looked at Etrailer.com on their pricing....the other one posted on this thread is cheaper. I need to check my brakes also. I know the wear is like car brakes...many use them going down a hill...others just down shift to a lower gear. Always wiling to hear and learn.....

[Turtle_n_Peeps]

deltabravo wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
You can put a wire nut on it

Wire nuts are OK INSIDE, but not exposed to weather,

I must be very lucky. My trailer has had them on for 30+ years and never a problem. 🙂

[Lynnmor]

deltabravo wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
You can put a wire nut on it

Wire nuts are OK INSIDE, but not exposed to weather,

There are all kinds of weather-proof wire nuts. While not recommended, I use them for the ease of repairs should I have a problem on the road.

[drsteve]

These guys have 12" brake assemblies for $76 per pair.

https://www.johnsonssurplus.com/collections

An entire 5200 lb axle with brakes and springs is $325.

[dodge_guy]

Ron3rd wrote:
The new complete assemblies are so cheap that it doesn't make sense to replace shoes anymore. New magnets, drums, etc, very cheap.

You don't get the drums. those are separate.

[deltabravo]

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
You can put a wire nut on it

Wire nuts are OK INSIDE, but not exposed to weather,

[deltabravo]

dockmasterdave wrote:
IE cut and splice or unplug/plug in ? TIA

Cut and re-splice, with some heatshrink crimp connectors.

The original wiring is just crimped connected too.

The biggest benefit is the time savings in just R&Ring the whole brake assembly

[Ron3rd]

The new complete assemblies are so cheap that it doesn't make sense to replace shoes anymore. New magnets, drums, etc, very cheap.

[dodge_guy]

I just ordered new shoes only for my 5200lb axles. $90 for all 4. It was approx. $230 for 4 complete brake assemblies. However I did replace my magnets about 5 or so years ago. So they are OK (I inspected them when checking the brakes over the weekend). If I still have it,it will get complete new brake assemblies next brake job. By then it will also need drums.

[time2roll]

+1 to just replace it all. Get the drums turned so the shoes will bed-in right.

And there is always the disk brake option. A bit more involved for both time and money.