cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

new brake shoes versus new plate assembly

dockmasterdave
Explorer
Explorer
I checked the 10" drum brakes on my 21' TT. They are getting close to shot. I plan on replacing them before that.
My question is, are there pros and cons between just replacing the shoes, or buying the whole new backer plate already assembled ?
If you change the whole set up, what is involved in the brake wiring, IE cut and splice or unplug/plug in ? TIA
2014 F 150 ecoboost
2008 Chrysler Aspen
09 Amerilite 21 (modified)
2013 Bendron 14' enclosed cargo
2011 4x8 open cargo
20 REPLIES 20

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Ok guys. I had the brakes shoes ordered, but they just told me they are on back order. They do have another set in stock, but the price is $25 more so about $120. I can get self adjusting brake assemblies for $180 (all 4 axles). This is the route I'm taking now. For $60 more it's he way to go!
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

Lakeland_Bob
Explorer
Explorer
I also replaced the entire backing plate on my Sunnybrook but instead of cutting the original wires off, I disassembled the original crimp on connectors.

When I reassembled them I used a grease as a water repellent as they did. No need to cut them and make the wires shorter.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
The assemblies are definitely easier for the typical DIY'er and, like stated, new springs, adjusters, magnets, and shoes. If I had a new trailer, I might buy just the shoes. It takes years of use to deteriorate the rest of the hardware.

If the OP does buy assemblies, I'd suggest that it's a good time to reconfigure the brake wiring to a "star" layout instead of the OEM "daisy chain". There will be a performance and durability increase with a "star" layout.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mark and Linda wrote:
dockmasterdave wrote:
I checked the 10" drum brakes on my 21' TT. They are getting close to shot. I plan on replacing them before that.
My question is, are there pros and cons between just replacing the shoes, or buying the whole new backer plate already assembled ?
If you change the whole set up, what is involved in the brake wiring, IE cut and splice or unplug/plug in ? TIA


Please post back on what you do? I just looked at Etrailer.com on their pricing....the other one posted on this thread is cheaper. I need to check my brakes also. I know the wear is like car brakes...many use them going down a hill...others just down shift to a lower gear. Always wiling to hear and learn.....


I have always used downshifting to slow down or hold a speed. Mine are 10 years old with approx. 15k miles on them. I have one brake that hangs up on occasion. When I did the wheel bearing repacks I cleaned and adjusted them and they performed great. This time when I pulled the one drum the material was disintegrating. So I just put it back together and ordered the shoes and seals. Like I previously posted. I replaced my magnets a few years ago so I know they are good. This time I'm just doing the shoes, and resurfacing the drums. if I still have the trailer for the next brake job it will get complete brake assemblies and drums.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

Mark_and_Linda
Explorer
Explorer
dockmasterdave wrote:
I checked the 10" drum brakes on my 21' TT. They are getting close to shot. I plan on replacing them before that.
My question is, are there pros and cons between just replacing the shoes, or buying the whole new backer plate already assembled ?
If you change the whole set up, what is involved in the brake wiring, IE cut and splice or unplug/plug in ? TIA


Please post back on what you do? I just looked at Etrailer.com on their pricing....the other one posted on this thread is cheaper. I need to check my brakes also. I know the wear is like car brakes...many use them going down a hill...others just down shift to a lower gear. Always wiling to hear and learn.....
Mark

Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
deltabravo wrote:
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
You can put a wire nut on it


Wire nuts are OK INSIDE, but not exposed to weather,


I must be very lucky. My trailer has had them on for 30+ years and never a problem. 🙂
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"

"The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly."- Abraham Lincoln

Lynnmor
Explorer
Explorer
deltabravo wrote:
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
You can put a wire nut on it


Wire nuts are OK INSIDE, but not exposed to weather,


There are all kinds of weather-proof wire nuts. While not recommended, I use them for the ease of repairs should I have a problem on the road.

drsteve
Explorer
Explorer
These guys have 12" brake assemblies for $76 per pair.

https://www.johnsonssurplus.com/collections

An entire 5200 lb axle with brakes and springs is $325.
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
Ron3rd wrote:
The new complete assemblies are so cheap that it doesn't make sense to replace shoes anymore. New magnets, drums, etc, very cheap.


You don't get the drums. those are separate.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
Turtle n Peeps wrote:
You can put a wire nut on it


Wire nuts are OK INSIDE, but not exposed to weather,
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
dockmasterdave wrote:
IE cut and splice or unplug/plug in ? TIA


Cut and re-splice, with some heatshrink crimp connectors.

The original wiring is just crimped connected too.

The biggest benefit is the time savings in just R&Ring the whole brake assembly
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
The new complete assemblies are so cheap that it doesn't make sense to replace shoes anymore. New magnets, drums, etc, very cheap.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

dodge_guy
Explorer II
Explorer II
I just ordered new shoes only for my 5200lb axles. $90 for all 4. It was approx. $230 for 4 complete brake assemblies. However I did replace my magnets about 5 or so years ago. So they are OK (I inspected them when checking the brakes over the weekend). If I still have it,it will get complete new brake assemblies next brake job. By then it will also need drums.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey

12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer

13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
+1 to just replace it all. Get the drums turned so the shoes will bed-in right.

And there is always the disk brake option. A bit more involved for both time and money.