new brake shoes versus new plate assembly

Ok guys. I had the brakes shoes ordered, but they just told me they are on back order. They do have another set in stock, but the price is $25 more so about $120. I can get self adjusting brake assemblies for $180 (all 4 axles). This is the route I'm taking now. For $60 more it's he way to go!

I also replaced the entire backing plate on my Sunnybrook but instead of cutting the original wires off, I disassembled the original crimp on connectors.

When I reassembled them I used a grease as a water repellent as they did. No need to cut them and make the wires shorter.

The assemblies are definitely easier for the typical DIY'er and, like stated, new springs, adjusters, magnets, and shoes. If I had a new trailer, I might buy just the shoes. It takes years of use to deteriorate the rest of the hardware.

If the OP does buy assemblies, I'd suggest that it's a good time to reconfigure the brake wiring to a "star" layout instead of the OEM "daisy chain". There will be a performance and durability increase with a "star" layout.

Mark and Linda wrote:

dockmasterdave wrote:
I checked the 10" drum brakes on my 21' TT. They are getting close to shot. I plan on replacing them before that.
My question is, are there pros and cons between just replacing the shoes, or buying the whole new backer plate already assembled ?
If you change the whole set up, what is involved in the brake wiring, IE cut and splice or unplug/plug in ? TIA

Please post back on what you do? I just looked at Etrailer.com on their pricing....the other one posted on this thread is cheaper. I need to check my brakes also. I know the wear is like car brakes...many use them going down a hill...others just down shift to a lower gear. Always wiling to hear and learn.....

I have always used downshifting to slow down or hold a speed. Mine are 10 years old with approx. 15k miles on them. I have one brake that hangs up on occasion. When I did the wheel bearing repacks I cleaned and adjusted them and they performed great. This time when I pulled the one drum the material was disintegrating. So I just put it back together and ordered the shoes and seals. Like I previously posted. I replaced my magnets a few years ago so I know they are good. This time I'm just doing the shoes, and resurfacing the drums. if I still have the trailer for the next brake job it will get complete brake assemblies and drums.

dockmasterdave wrote:
I checked the 10" drum brakes on my 21' TT. They are getting close to shot. I plan on replacing them before that.
My question is, are there pros and cons between just replacing the shoes, or buying the whole new backer plate already assembled ?
If you change the whole set up, what is involved in the brake wiring, IE cut and splice or unplug/plug in ? TIA

Please post back on what you do? I just looked at Etrailer.com on their pricing....the other one posted on this thread is cheaper. I need to check my brakes also. I know the wear is like car brakes...many use them going down a hill...others just down shift to a lower gear. Always wiling to hear and learn.....

deltabravo wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
You can put a wire nut on it

Wire nuts are OK INSIDE, but not exposed to weather,

I must be very lucky. My trailer has had them on for 30+ years and never a problem. :)

deltabravo wrote:

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
You can put a wire nut on it

Wire nuts are OK INSIDE, but not exposed to weather,

There are all kinds of weather-proof wire nuts. While not recommended, I use them for the ease of repairs should I have a problem on the road.

These guys have 12" brake assemblies for $76 per pair.

https://www.johnsonssurplus.com/collections

An entire 5200 lb axle with brakes and springs is $325.

Ron3rd wrote:
The new complete assemblies are so cheap that it doesn't make sense to replace shoes anymore. New magnets, drums, etc, very cheap.

You don't get the drums. those are separate.

Turtle n Peeps wrote:
You can put a wire nut on it

Wire nuts are OK INSIDE, but not exposed to weather,