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kep5niner's avatar
kep5niner
Explorer
Dec 01, 2014

New fireplace wiring question

I'm looking to install a 1500w fireplace in my TT. I will be installing a dedicated outlet wired to the panel. The wiring from the outlet to the panel will go underneath the floor, and I have an insulated / heated underbelly. What can I expect when trying to fish the wire? Will I have to drop the underbelly covering and insulation? I'm envisioning the spray foam insulation (Great Stuff?) crackling everywhere...that stuff is pretty much a one-time install.

Anyone have any experience or tips for what I might run into in fishing the wire from the new outlet location, straight-shot back approximately 8' to the panel? Thanks!
  • What ScottG said.

    I'm guessing your trailer is 30 amp and with that, running a separate circuit gives very little benefit. On my unit the fire place plugs into the receptacle behind the TV.

    Don't pull the belly. You will be disappointed.
  • Awesome - quite the thorough reponse! Well I'll be heading out to check on the trailer this weekend, as it's stored indoors off-site. I'll pull final dimension from the cabinet, do my homework and make a decision on which fireplace to choose.

    I won't be able to execute the install until the spring, but I will be sure to update this thread - maybe do a write-up.

    Thanks for all of the responses!
  • I have run lots of wiring in the ceilings now and it can be done. It's not as difficult as it might seem at first. When they build TTs, they just lay wire on top of the bottom chord of trusses anyway. I would think this is easier than running under a TT and if you have an enclosed underbelly, it's definitely easier.

    Looking at the photo posted above, you can get up into the ceiling easily. Looking at the photos on KZ's website, the panel looks to be under the lower bunk bed and I can see no issues getting from the panel to the fireplace location via the ceiling.

    Anything on the ceiling that can provide an access into the ceiling can be used to leapfrog from one access point to the next. You can enlarge the hole in the ceiling behind a light fixture if needed. You can also run horizontally through cabinets. Many upper cabinets have a hollow cavity in the bottom which is good for running wiring. If needed, sometimes you can pull the luan off the wall inside a cabinet to gain access into the ceiling and then just staple or screw it back in place.

    Sometimes you can run under a tub or shower. You can also run up/down inside interior walls. In some cases you may need to cut a small hole in the luan ceiling or on a wall in a hidden spot inside a cabinet. You can also pull out a microwave, radio or fridge to gain access to a wall or ceiling. There's often lots of routes if you stand back and look at things.

    Use an electricians fish tape (cheap at HF). In addition, you may want to use a piece of coat hanger or single piece of #14 wire to fish around corners and obstructions.

    I would run a new dedicated cable for this to the panel for three reasons. The standard SCD (self-contained device) receptacles have the wires pushed onto "prongs" on the rear of the receptacle. I would not trust the factory having installed the wiring properly. I had a recept. in a previous TT that had the wires barely hanging onto one of the prongs. Although SCDs are CSA or UL approved for their full rating and should be perfectly fine, somehow I just wouldn't feel comfortable running full rated current through a bunch of SCD receptacles in series for extended non-stop periods of time.

    Second, if the fireplace is rated 1500 watts, at 120 volts that would be 12.5 amps full load. I would consider the heater in this application to be a continuous load and apply the NEC 80% rule (1.25 x 12.5 amps) which would mean #12 wire and a dedicated 20 amp breaker. The fireplace could easily end up running non-stop for many hours, unlike in a house where a wall stat. constantly cycles a heater on and off.

    Third, if you run a separate circuit, you won't have to worry about plugging something else and tripping a branch breaker.

    If it's a 30 amp service in your Spree, you could also install load shedding to automatically turn off the fireplace while a heavy load is on.

    BTW, if the fireplace is a bit smaller than what you'll have for an opening after removing the cab. doors, you can order 8' lengths of 1x2 and 1x3 from the factory (via dealer) if needed to trim it out.
  • Many trailers have the wiring run thru the ceiling. Just pull from the openings for vents, speakers and lamps. See if wiring goes up from your breaker box.
  • I would run a dedicated 12 ga wire on a 20 amp circuit. It will pull every bit of 13 amps when running on high.
  • I agree with Scottg, unless there are some other big draw appliances on the same circuit. Turn the breaker off and discover what doesn't work.
    Dave
  • There's really no reason to run a separate wire for a 1500 watt heater. Just plug it into the same outlet the TV uses.
    In the unlikely event you have problems with a breaker tripping you can then run a new wire.
  • The fireplace will be below the TV (same location as a factory installed option). I will be putting the outlet inside the cabinet, and run the wires into the floor, aft toward the panel (the picture is looking toward the front pf the trailer). I think "inginuity" might be the operative word.

    Thanks for your input!

  • Most RVs have areas where you can follow existing wiring to get to where you need to go. You may need to use some ingenuity to get the new wire to follow the path (bent coat hanger wire, fishtape, surface mount boxes, panduit...)