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ducky8888
Explorer
Explorer
Having camped off and on since I was a child, I learned very early that tent camping is not for me! A few years ago, my then girlfriend decided we were all going camping. Me and my 2 kids, her and her 4 kids, and my 2 dogs. I ended up finding a decent priced coleman pop-up and put it behind her chrysler mini-van, and I figured out what a horrible mistake it is to haul that much weight through the mountainous back-roads of California.

Fast forward 3 years, I have since broken up with her (sold the trailer for more than what I bought it for), and for a few reasons have begun camping very regularly. From camping in Humboldt for a marathon and local hiking to quads at Sand Mountain in NV, to relaxing by the lake at Bowman or Lyndsey lake. Each of these trips reinforced my hatred of tent camping. I had tent poles break, air mattresses leak, a river of rain water through my tent (right where my clothes were stored). Every trip was riddled with issues and discomfort.

My situation now is this: I am wanting to go out to these places, but I dont want an RV, and a trailer would work, but that limits me to bed storage for motorsports etc. I could get a toy hauler, but thats extreme for my needs and isnt nimble enough to get to some of the camp sites we will be frequenting.

I decided the best solution for me is a new truck (I went with a low mileage 08 Tundra 4x4 double cab trd), a cabover camper (I found a nice '99 Lance 945), and a standard 16ft flatbed trailer to haul my toys when I want them.

I did a lot of research prior to making my purchases so I knew what I was in for when making each purchase, and adjusted my buying accordingly. I bought the truck first, it needed a few mods and repairs to make it camper ready. I went with the torklift tie downs as i wanted to be able to "hide" it when the camper wasnt in the truck. At the same time, I ordered an airbag kit, my only wish was that I had installed them BEFORE buying the camper. Other repairs are minor, such as removing the broken antenna stud and replacing the antenna, a little bit of paint work to make it look better (PO used some crappy blue rattle can paint to try to cover some scratches).

Once I got the tie-downs installed in the truck (PITA!!! had to cut and shave then a bit to get then to fit) I went looking at campers. I found a local guy asking $5000 for this one, and evidently had so many tire-kickers and people who had no clue about these that he was willing to come down to $4000. It doesnt have some features like AC or 110v but that was fine with me. Upon making a deal I ran into the first couple issues. Number one was camper depth versus bed depth... Luckily the RV storage where it was at was in an industrial park and I was able to find a couple pallets to get it loaded. Once it was in the bed I discovered the running lights werent working. Yesterday I discovered that the Tundra has fuses and relays for all of the trailer lights and one of the fuses was blown, phew, easy fix!

I have spent this morning searching, researching, shopping, and buying to fix a few of the concerns I have about the setup and to get fully prepared for an upcoming camping trip.

Cordless drill and jack attachment bit. I have been needing a good cordless drill, this gave me a great excuse to buy one. I have loaded the camper into my truck and unloaded, and this is going to be a must have for me.

I ordered an 18" hitch extension, which should put the hitch (and the steps when installed) right where it needs to be.

The camper was converted to a 7-way trailer connector and the PO included an extension in with the purchase, but this presents an issue because my trailer uses a 7-way as well. I looked around and for ~$180 I could buy a splitter/extender, but I was still presented with the issue of my trailer being 18" further back. My solution is this: I have ordered a 24" 7-way extension, I am cutting the male end off and then splicing this new piece into the camper extender. I also purchased a mount so I can permanently attach the 24" extension to the hitch extender. My plan is to be able to hide everything under the camper when in storage, and when I pull under the camper, I just have to attache the 7-way to my truck, put the hitch extender in, and I am ready to go. My idea it to add some kind of bracket underneath to support the hitch extender. I have thought of ways to get around this, but since I need the hitch extender to use the steps, it makes sense to me to always have it with the camper. I know there are other step solutions, but a large majority of the time I will be using the camper, I will also be hauling the trailer.

I ordered a voltage monitor (comes with a 12v power port and a USB charger port). I am planning to mount this in the kitchen area. I was worried about this being constantly on, even though the draw is very minimal, so I found one with a power switch. Along with this upgrade I decided to convert everything to LED.

I am considering either adding a battery (in the compartment where I have seen generators installed, back lower right corner) in addition to the battery already in the camper, and replacing the existing battery with a deep cycle, or removing the current battery entirely and go with a couple 6v golf cart batteries. Either way I go, I am going to be adding solar panels. I have not decided on how to go about this yet, whether permanently mounting them on the roof is a good idea, or doing something like the flexible mat ones that I can roll up and store during travel.

So, thats what I have planned for the next 2 weeks before my next camping trip. Any tips or ideas are more than welcome.
52 REPLIES 52

wvabeer
Explorer
Explorer
Hey ducky8888 I wanna see a pic of your rig. The main thing is to have fun. ๐Ÿ™‚
1999 Dutch Star DP3884
2015 Camplite 6.8C
2012 Cherokee 39L destination
2022 F350 XL 4x4
07 FLHRS

hedgehopper
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:

hedgehopper - I need not make up the numbers, they would serve no useful purpose. On this subject, I do not even need to cite what I have read, I am speaking of my personal experience. As for the MPG, be it a gas or diesel, it makes no sense that my Dodge 2500 with TC (10,400 lbs) gets 12 MPG, and the Toyota (4200 lbs) gets 14 MPG. I guess you could improve the efficiency of the Toyota with a diesel. I really like the Toyota, but it has its weak points.
Wayne

Apparently, I was unclear about what I was trying to say. Let me try again:

(1) Even if only one percent of Toyota engines fail before 200k miles, yours could still be part of the one percent.

(2) Even if forty percent of Dodge engines fail before 200k miles, yours could still be part of the sixty percent that don't.

Disclaimer: I am not saying that one percent of Toyota engines fail before 200k miles. Nor am I saying that forty percent of Dodge engines do. Theses are simply numbers that I chose to illustrate a point.

(3) If your Toyota got 14 mpg and mine got 20 mpg, there are other factors involved that we did not discuss. For example: Our Tundra was a 6-cylinder with manual transmission. Maybe yours was a big V8 with automatic transmission.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
zcookiemonstar - You are correct, 1600 lbs over the GVWR and not the axle ratings.

~DJ~ - Personally, I have no problem with overloading an HD truck or a half ton. I have overloaded both in the past, and would in the future. I would not overload a half ton as much as I would a HD. My primary concern is the semi-floating axles and the axle bearings in the half ton. On the "missed in my owners manual for my F 150 that I could only carry a load "occasionally"", it was probably on a small card in the glove box that the sales people removed. They can't put everything in the manual. :B :R

mkirsch - My concern is with the axles and axle bearings. The suspension can be easily modified. On some half tons, you can get heavy duty axles, or even have them made, but the basic design is still the same, semi-floating axles. If the axle breaks you are out of control, and on the ground. A bearing failure can be the cause. With floating axles, you can literately pull the axle out, and still roll down the highway. If you burn up a bearing, it may very well stop the wheel from turning, but it will not break and drop the axle on the ground.

hedgehopper - I need not make up the numbers, they would serve no useful purpose. On this subject, I do not even need to cite what I have read, I am speaking of my personal experience. As for the MPG, be it a gas or diesel, it makes no sense that my Dodge 2500 with TC (10,400 lbs) gets 12 MPG, and the Toyota (4200 lbs) gets 14 MPG. I guess you could improve the efficiency of the Toyota with a diesel. I really like the Toyota, but it has its weak points.

In years past, I have had half tons with TCs. I am sure they were overloaded, but I never personally had a problem. I had friends that did have problems with axles and or axle bearings, and they were scary. I do not know where someone should draw the line with being overweight. I guess that will just be a decision they will have to make. We can only cite our experiences.

Which vehicle is best? You can argue forever, and I doubt you could really prove which one is the best. I have had some vehicles I like better than others, but I question I have ever had the "best".

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

_DJ_1
Explorer II
Explorer II
mkirsch wrote:
~DJ~ wrote:
Why is it OK to overload an HD truck but not a half ton?


Half tons are designed for occasional use at capacity, because that's how the vast majority of buyers use them.



I certainly missed in my owners manual for my F 150 that I could only carry a load "occasionally" :R
'17 Class C 22' Conquest on Ford E 450 with V 10. 4000 Onan, Quad 6 volt AGMs, 515 watts solar.
'12 Northstar Liberty on a '16 Super Duty 6.2. Twin 6 volt AGMs with 300 watts solar.

hedgehopper
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:
I am a bit confused. By the door decal, I am overloaded by about 1600 pounds. I have been with this for over 180,000 miles. My truck has over 265,000 miles, and still going strong. I also have a Toyota, and had to rebuild the engine well before 150,000 miles, and it only had to carry itself at less than 4,200 pounds.

My confusion is why I should think the Toyota is a better machine than the Dodge 2500 diesel? Should I mention, my Dodge 2500 with TC (10,400 lbs) gets 12 MPG, and the Toyota (4200 lbs) gets 14 MPG.

Wayne

You are part of the one percent of Toyota owners who have engine failure before 200k miles and part of the 60 percent of Dodge owners who don't. (The numbers I am using are made up to illustrate a point. But you get the idea.)

As for the mpg: You realize, of course, that you are comparing a diesel with a gasser. Moreover, our Tundra got 20 mpg without a camper and 18 mpg with a (1000 lb) camper, both better than your 14 mpg. So obviously, there are other factors involved here.

mkirsch
Nomad II
Nomad II
~DJ~ wrote:
Why is it OK to overload an HD truck but not a half ton?


An HD truck is designed to haul its rated capacity from the day it rolls off the dealer lot until the day it's dragged off to the crusher, because that's how the vast majority of buyers use them. Half tons are designed for occasional use at capacity, because that's how the vast majority of buyers use them.

There are a lot of half tons rated to haul 1500lbs, and many 3/4 tons that on paper are also rated to haul around 1500lbs. Put 1500lbs in each truck and see how they handle the load. The half ton will be down on its bump stops, but it won't even take the rake out of the 3/4 ton's stance. The half ton will have you planning ahead as you drive, slowing for traffic lights and stop signs sooner than normal, while the 3/4 will just be starting to ride nice. Clearly the 3/4 ton is built heavier, and is not anywhere near its limits, while the half ton is.

Anybody notice the OP has disappeared? Hmm, let's see... TC on a half ton? Check. Toyota Tundra? Check. Massively overloading a pickup truck? Check. Poking just about every hot button in this forum? Check.

I'm thinking of a 5-letter word. Starts with "T."

Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

_DJ_1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Reddog1 wrote:
I am a bit confused. By the door decal, I am overloaded by about 1600 pounds. I have been with this for over 180,000 miles. My truck has over 265,000 miles, and still going strong. I also have a Toyota, and had to rebuild the engine well before 150,000 miles, and it only had to carry itself at less than 4,200 pounds.

My confusion is why I should think the Toyota is a better machine than the Dodge 2500 diesel? Should I mention, my Dodge 2500 with TC (10,400 lbs) gets 12 MPG, and the Toyota (4200 lbs) gets 14 MPG.

Wayne


I'm confused too. Why is it OK to overload an HD truck but not a half ton? I would venture to say, here in TC land, that there is a considerable amount of HD trucks that are overloaded. Mine included!!

I have an F 250 with a 3000# payload and I am 300# over GVWR with a pop up!!!!

To the OP: The one thing you can not change/increase is the axle weight rating. Once you are all loaded up, hit the scales one axle at a time. I fear your rear axle is going to take the biggest hit. If over, try to move stuff up to the cab and/or back to the trailer. JMHO
'17 Class C 22' Conquest on Ford E 450 with V 10. 4000 Onan, Quad 6 volt AGMs, 515 watts solar.
'12 Northstar Liberty on a '16 Super Duty 6.2. Twin 6 volt AGMs with 300 watts solar.

zcookiemonstar
Explorer
Explorer
Reddog1 wrote:
I am a bit confused. By the door decal, I am overloaded by about 1600 pounds. I have been with this for over 180,000 miles. My truck has over 265,000 miles, and still going strong. I also have a Toyota, and had to rebuild the engine well before 150,000 miles, and it only had to carry itself at less than 4,200 pounds.

Wayne


I am guessing you are 1600lbs over the GVWR and not the axle ratings.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am a bit confused. By the door decal, I am overloaded by about 1600 pounds. I have been with this for over 180,000 miles. My truck has over 265,000 miles, and still going strong. I also have a Toyota, and had to rebuild the engine well before 150,000 miles, and it only had to carry itself at less than 4,200 pounds.

My confusion is why I should think the Toyota is a better machine than the Dodge 2500 diesel? Should I mention, my Dodge 2500 with TC (10,400 lbs) gets 12 MPG, and the Toyota (4200 lbs) gets 14 MPG.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

hedgehopper
Explorer
Explorer
Vinsil wrote:
Did not imply you advocated it. Just pointing to the fact of the flawed logic of reliability is a moot point when taken outside the designed perimeters.

Nothing more, just an observation. ๐Ÿ™‚

Agreed

Vinsil
Explorer
Explorer
Did not imply you advocated it. Just pointing to the fact of the flawed logic of reliability is a moot point when taken outside the designed perimeters.

Nothing more, just an observation. ๐Ÿ™‚
2017 Ford F-350, crewcab, 4x4, 6.7 diesel.
2016 Thunderjet Luxor 21' limited edition, Yamaha powered.
2016 Wolf Creek 840-SOLD, Arctic Fox 990 ordered.

hedgehopper
Explorer
Explorer
Vinsil wrote:
while Toyota might have a good rep for reliable vehicles, they are not flawless and overloaded will just turn you 200k truck into a 100k or less.
As I wrote in a previous post, I do not advocate overloading any truck.

Vinsil
Explorer
Explorer
hedgehopper wrote:
The OP likes Toyotas because of their reliability. Based on the three we have owned, two of which covered 200k miles each, I can support that. One was my wife's 1978 pickup. The second was a 1984 Camry that I continued driving for several years after it was totaled by a teenager talking on her cell phone (but that's another story). The third Toyota was the Tundra that we sold with the Phoenix still on it when we bought our Northern Lite on a Ram 3500. The Tundra never missed a beat during the 70k miles that we drove it.

I'd like to put our NL on a Tundra 3500 dually. But I seem to be waiting in vain for Toyota to come out with one. Does anyone know when that might happen? I've seen several pictured on the internet. But they all appear to be custom built.

To those who would not own a Tundra because of the "Buy American" thing, the last time I checked, Texas (where the Tundra is made) had not yet seceded from the union.



200k isn't that great of a thing to brag about...my last powerstroke had 200k on it when I sold it...still going strong. Not saying Toyota's aren't reliable...have had many...and currently have a camry. Just the simple fact that while Toyota might have a good rep for reliable vehicles, they are not flawless and overloaded will just turn you 200k truck into a 100k or less.


Don't hold your breath on a heavy duty truck from Toyota or Nissan anytime soon. Their half tons don't sell that great....they won't try to compete with the big three in the heavy truck market.
2017 Ford F-350, crewcab, 4x4, 6.7 diesel.
2016 Thunderjet Luxor 21' limited edition, Yamaha powered.
2016 Wolf Creek 840-SOLD, Arctic Fox 990 ordered.

hedgehopper
Explorer
Explorer
The OP likes Toyotas because of their reliability. Based on the three we have owned, two of which covered 200k miles each, I can support that. One was my wife's 1978 pickup. The second was a 1984 Camry that I continued driving for several years after it was totaled by a teenager talking on her cell phone (but that's another story). The third Toyota was the Tundra that we sold with the Phoenix still on it when we bought our Northern Lite on a Ram 3500. The Tundra never missed a beat during the 70k miles that we drove it.

I'd like to put our NL on a Tundra 3500 dually. But I seem to be waiting in vain for Toyota to come out with one. Does anyone know when that might happen? I've seen several pictured on the internet. But they all appear to be custom built.

To those who would not own a Tundra because of the "Buy American" thing, the last time I checked, Texas (where the Tundra is made) had not yet seceded from the union.