New tow vehicle - Heavy Duty - WDH or not?

[crazyro]

Hi folks. After enjoying our Mega Cab for a while, we have upgraded to my dream truck - a RAM 2500 w/ the 6.4 HEMI, crew cab, long bed. I'm new to the "true" 2500 world (our MC was rated as a 1/2 ton though it looked like a 3/4) and am seeing conflicting info - do I need a WDH or not?

Also, help me here. If I do keep my WDH, would a reducer work fine or should I get a 2.5" shank? (new to us truck came with a class V hitch setup) I may end up needing a taller shank as this truck is lifted a little.

Much appreciated.

Here's our Lima:

[cummins2014]

crazyro wrote:
I am looking at getting this shank which should provide me with the drop I need. (I hope)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GC21JW9/

Our TT weighs only about 5,000 so I don't think the truck will care much.

Double post

[cummins2014]

crazyro wrote:
I am looking at getting this shank which should provide me with the drop I need. (I hope)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GC21JW9/

Our TT weighs only about 5,000 so I don't think the truck will care much.

I have welded up more drop downs like that in my working days then I can count, a chunk of 2*1/2" square bar, and away we would go . Of course back then it was all 2" square bar before the 2*1/2' receivers .

[crazyro]

I am looking at getting this shank which should provide me with the drop I need. (I hope)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GC21JW9/

Our TT weighs only about 5,000 so I don't think the truck will care much.

[Grit_dog]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:
Congrats on the new truck. For that weight you shouldn't need a WDH.

Common sense answer!

So it was a common sense question?

It was compliment to YOU as your answer was common sense!

Cats n dogs in harmony....Love it!

[Cummins12V98]

What every person should own that tows a trailer! B&W Tow N Stow.

[Cummins12V98]

FishOnOne wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:
Congrats on the new truck. For that weight you shouldn't need a WDH.

Common sense answer!

So it was a common sense question?

It was compliment to YOU as your answer was common sense!

[spoon059]

Yea, I had to go with a 9" drop, if I remember correctly. That rear suspension is pretty stable and rugged, and that trailer is light. I doubt the rear will drop much when you are fully loaded. I've got 1200 lbs tongue weight and drop maybe 2". I have an E4 WDH, so on longer trips or mountain towing I use the WDH, but only for the sway control. I've never had a problem with sway, but I don't want one. I've had the E4 for 10 years, so I just keep using it.

[Me_Again]

crazyro wrote:
Well, current hitch is a no-go. Went to storage facility to test. Jack is maxxed out on height. Even if I were to jack the whole trailer up onto ball, back end of TT would be almost touching the ground. Time for a taller shank (2.5" receiver) or ditch WDH and go adjustable hitch ball and call it done...

You need one of these extended drop inserts. Maybe even a custom longer drop. The bottom holes would move my ball 2.5" lower or about 3.5 to 4" inches lower than your ball is currently at. Chris

[Grit_dog]

demiles wrote:
You have already towed the trailer without sway control and know it is dynamically stable so hook and go. I have been towing RVs with very little to no WD and sway control for 20 + years and the key is proper trailer loading. Those that say you must use one either have a poorly designed trailer, inadequate TV, and/or incorrect loading.

What he said ^.
WDHs are largely popular with Travel trailer owners for the most part and not the other majority of the trailer towing world.
Couple reasons.
1. Needed with weekend warriors towing their heavy tongue weight trailers occasionally with little trucks.
2. Sway control needed sometimes because some TTs are not built to tow well, they’re built to sell well. (Too much weight aft, axles too far forward to reduce excessive tongue weight). So some just wag the dog all day.

You have the truck, you’ve towed the trailer and it doesn’t have issue #2.
Go get a 2.5” shank drop hitch and let er rip!
If you don’t get an adjustable one, get your trailer hooked first though to see how much squat the truck has so you get the right drop height the first time.

[crazyro]

Boomerweps wrote:

I'd still use some more blocking and get that TT hooked up to the new truck. So you can truely see (& measure if desired) the end result, how much the truck drops & how much angle/rear clearance on the TT.
I'm just the kind of person that likes to know as much as possible using real life data 😉
If things end up usable, throw one of those automatic dropping jack extensions on.

I was trying to do that but unfortunately the TT is already almost bottomed out in this position/spot at the storage facility. I could potentially get another block under there but not sure. Maybe I'll take the 3 ton jack and play with it. 😄

[Boomerweps]

crazyro wrote:
Well, current hitch is a no-go. Went to storage facility to test. Jack is maxxed out on height. Even if I were to jack the whole trailer up onto ball, back end of TT would be almost touching the ground. Time for a taller shank (2.5" receiver) or ditch WDH and go adjustable hitch ball and call it done...

I'd still use some more blocking and get that TT hooked up to the new truck. So you can truely see (& measure if desired) the end result, how much the truck drops & how much angle/rear clearance on the TT.
I'm just the kind of person that likes to know as much as possible using real life data 😉
If things end up usable, throw one of those automatic dropping jack extensions on.

[crazyro]

bucky wrote:

wanderingbob wrote:
For " Stealth Camping " I assume !

Nice truck. I can barely see it against the trees :W

Ha. No way to do stupid stuff and try to hide anymore. 😄

[bucky]

wanderingbob wrote:
For " Stealth Camping " I assume !

Nice truck. I can barely see it against the trees :W

[demiles]

You have already towed the trailer without sway control and know it is dynamically stable so hook and go. I have been towing RVs with very little to no WD and sway control for 20 + years and the key is proper trailer loading. Those that say you must use one either have a poorly designed trailer, inadequate TV, and/or incorrect loading.