Newbie plumbing questions

Don't know what happened to my post......so I'm posting again'




You have a 'combo electric/propane' Atwood WH which uses an aluminum tank hence the Nylon drain plug.......so aluminum threads don't strip/nylon one do
Aluminum clad tank (aluminum/zinc cladding) does NOT require an anode rod (Suburban Steel Tank does)

Cold inlet/Bypass valve
It is a 3-way valve. Current position in picture allows cold water into the WH Tank (handle parallel with cold water supply line)
Turn valve 1/4 Turn and cold water flows to hot outlet line 'BYPASS' WH Tank
Hot outlet has a 'check valve' in fitting on tank to stop backflow into tank

Behind the cold/bypass valve is a black protective cover.
Under that cover is the electric element and DC Relay
WH uses SAME set of t-stat/ECO for temp controls
140*F t-stat for normal heating cycles & 180*F ECO (energy cut off---hi temp t-stat) that triggers RED Fault Light on switch panel



AS for filling leak.........haven't a clue. But you should ID and fix/replace.
Water is an RV KILLER

Your heater does not have an anode rod. Mine doesn't but I can't remember the brand. The picture is the same as mine, no anode.

As far as the bypass goes, the water enters the HW tank at the bottom and exits at the top. Follow this route and look at the valves. In your picture the bottom valve is "open" which allows the water to enter the HW tank. You don't show the valve at the top. If you were to change the bottom valve it would not flow into the tank but go up the bypass pipe. IF the top valve is parallel to the pipe coming out of the tank, the water will not go anywhere. So, if they are both horizontal, the water will enter the tank and exit at the top. If they are both vertical it will bypass the tank. I think this is your situation.

As far as the leaking fresh water fill, that is what is sounds like. Where the fill connects to the fresh water tank the water is leaking, especially when you fill the tank and it backs up. If you can gain access to the fill door from inside you should be able to see the problem.

I believe that is an Atwood WH and they dont have anodes because they have an aluminum tank.

My water heater does not have an anode. It is a dual electric/LP and does not have an adjustable temp control.

If the valve handle crosses the pipe it is closed. If the valve handle is parallel to the pipe it is open.