Hello all...Purchased a used 2007 Forest River Surveyor SV29. We're super excited about the adventures and open roads ahead of us. However I thought I had the number right and now I'm have second thoughts, maybe I'm doing to much research and the knowledge I'm picking up is scarring me ;-0Here is a list of what have:2013 Ford F-150 EcoBoost GVWR 7200Front GAWR 3750Rear GAWR 3850(How is it that both axle combine exceed the GVWR?)Payload (Yellow Sticker) 1231Michelin Load Range E (New)Curt WDH with Sway TruTrack 2007 Forest River 29'GVWR 7420UVW 4820Charlie Tire (New)So if I apply my calculations:Weight just in our family of 4 plus dog is 560lb.That leave wiggle room of only 671lbs for tongue weight and cargo. However from what I've read you want the tongue weigh to be around 12% of total trailer weight. If I assume that we will carry 700lbs of stuff...total trailer weight is 5520lbs, 12% of that is 662lbs. Plus my hitch is around 75lbs so I'm just over. I pulled it around today and it sure is heavy, but I manage to drive 65/70 mph alright. Air in my truck tires were around 50psi and trailer was around 35 psi. Any suggestions or recommendation.

Any suggestions or recommendation. Don't try to keep up with traffic driving that fast. It's not worth it. Drive what feels comfortable AND safe.60 mph is pretty much my limit, even on interstates, and I'm driving a 3500 duly diesel.

I drive a 2014 F-150 XLT Supercrew with a sticker payload of 1440. It pulls a Bullet Premiere 31BHPR that weights in at about 7500lbFamily = @ 400lbWeighed tongue weight = 960Cargo in the bed = @ 100-150lbThat puts me about 100-150lb over payload. I have towed it nearly 10,000 miles without incident, (outside of my own stupidity - nothing to do with weighs and speeds ;) ), including a 1600 mile trip through the mountains of Virginia and West Virginia two weeks ago with the first day having high wind warnings all through the mountains. The trucks anti-sway kicked in by cutting the cruise and gently braking 4 or 5 times at quite predictable locations, (breaks in trees, cresting ridges etc.), and that was before I really thought there was an issue.The transmission fluid gets to around 200-204C on hot summers days and I have been assured by the dealer's head mechanic that I needn't worry about that temp until 219C.All in all it has been a pleasure to drive.

DutchmenSport wrote:Any suggestions or recommendation. Don't try to keep up with traffic driving that fast. It's not worth it. Drive what feels comfortable AND safe.60 mph is pretty much my limit, even on interstates, and I'm driving a 3500 duly diesel.Yea I was driving around that 60-70 MPH and felt okay. Did feel it get swirly a tad, but nothing to scary. i felt like more of a jerk holding up traffic more than anything.

am1958???? are you sure about that:200-204C = 392-399.2 F219C = 426.2F ?????

Laziebun wrote:DutchmenSport wrote:Any suggestions or recommendation. Don't try to keep up with traffic driving that fast. It's not worth it. Drive what feels comfortable AND safe.60 mph is pretty much my limit, even on interstates, and I'm driving a 3500 duly diesel.Yea I was driving around that 60-70 MPH and felt okay. Did feel it get swirly a tad, but nothing to scary. i felt like more of a jerk holding up traffic more than anything.Most of us do to. But your safety is more important than their stupidity.

Newbie..Trailer to big? | Good Sam Community

falconbrother
Explorer II
Apr 25, 2017
Get a pro to set up your WD hitch. If you do it yourself don't skimp, make sure it's right. I use tow/haul WITHOUT cruise control. My old Suburban doesn't have 6 speeds and such so, when it wants to down shift at 60 MPH that can get weird. Get yourself some Timbrens or Sumo SuperSprings. You will bloody love them things for towing. I have the Sumos and love them. They install easy.
atwowheelguy
Explorer
Apr 22, 2017
Laziebun wrote:
Old-Biscuit wrote:
AS posted...

Max sidewall psi on truck & trailer tires

Then go to a set of scales and get weighed....CAMP READY (you/passengers/pets/backpacks, bags, stuff, trailer filled up with needed items and full fresh water tank)

Truck & trailer with WDH
Truck & trailer w/o WDH hooked up
Truck alone (just drop trailer in lot and go reweigh)

With the weights from those 3 weighings you will have all numbers needed to make an informed decision
Truck GVWR (always lower then the sum of axle ratings cause you can NOT equally load truck)
Truck FAWR
Truck RAWR
Truck MAX LOAD Rating A at MAX PSI (on sidewall)
Trailer tongue weight
Trailer GVWR

Over on Trucks GVWR---- Not that big of an issue
Over on Trucks Payload...not good but not real big issue
Over on Trucks RAWR....not good but how much---decision time
Over on Trucks Rear tires.......BAD...REAL BAD
Over on Trailers GVWR....not good---need to lose some stuff (shouldn't be an issue unless you pack EVERYTHING when most of it is not needed)

:B:B

Yeah thats the game plan...haven't had a chance to run this drill just yet. Heres a question for you, what if I weight my truck no trailer and the front axle weight in at 3600lb, once the WDH is fully hooked up, the front now weight 3300 lbs...is that right, if not how can I put some of the weight back to the front, minus taking the spare tire and putting it on the hood..jk?

Don't know if you're really joking or not. Putting the weight back on the front is the reason for having the weight distribution hitch. If the weight is not returned to the front, the WDH needs an adjustment to put more leverage on the hitch to transfer more weight to the front. The three passes across the scales will give you the following information to tell if you are overloaded and if the WDH is adjusted properly. Find a scale here: http://www.publicscaleslocator.com

In this case, 360 lbs. was lifted from the front and 260 lbs. was returned to the front.
Terryallan
Explorer II
Apr 22, 2017
Laziebun wrote:
am1958 wrote:
I drive 65 with the cruise on whereever possible and everything is fine. The truck has no problem pulling the weight even on steep hills where I would put it into tow/haul mode when going downhill so the engine takes the pressure off the brakes.

You know the sway control is engaged when the information panel tells you it is operating. It disengages the cruise if it is engaged and brakes gently. After it did it a couple of times and I got used to it I would just immediately re-engage the the cruise since there was no perceptible sway. The system seems very sensitive to sudden but relatively small movements of the trailer probably because I believe the system is designed to detect and react to prevent the sway from properly starting but in the winds I was being exposed to a sudden crosswind only briefly and that initial movement, (barely perceptible by me), must be all it takes to trigger the system.

Funnily enough, or the rare occasions when a big truck goes flying by and hits me with the "wind wall" making the trailer "wobble" very perceptibly the sway control doesn't kick in.

Hasn't display anything yet...so maybe my wobble is just me being a tad sensitive.

Maybe not. Many times. IF the truck sway control kicks in. You are in real trouble already. I've had to jerk mine pretty hared, and it has never came on.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Apr 21, 2017
Setting up a WDH correctly........see pg 16
WDH
Laziebun
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
am1958 wrote:
I drive 65 with the cruise on whereever possible and everything is fine. The truck has no problem pulling the weight even on steep hills where I would put it into tow/haul mode when going downhill so the engine takes the pressure off the brakes.

You know the sway control is engaged when the information panel tells you it is operating. It disengages the cruise if it is engaged and brakes gently. After it did it a couple of times and I got used to it I would just immediately re-engage the the cruise since there was no perceptible sway. The system seems very sensitive to sudden but relatively small movements of the trailer probably because I believe the system is designed to detect and react to prevent the sway from properly starting but in the winds I was being exposed to a sudden crosswind only briefly and that initial movement, (barely perceptible by me), must be all it takes to trigger the system.

Funnily enough, or the rare occasions when a big truck goes flying by and hits me with the "wind wall" making the trailer "wobble" very perceptibly the sway control doesn't kick in.

Hasn't display anything yet...so maybe my wobble is just me being a tad sensitive.
Laziebun
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
Old-Biscuit wrote:
AS posted...

Max sidewall psi on truck & trailer tires

Then go to a set of scales and get weighed....CAMP READY (you/passengers/pets/backpacks, bags, stuff, trailer filled up with needed items and full fresh water tank)

Truck & trailer with WDH
Truck & trailer w/o WDH hooked up
Truck alone (just drop trailer in lot and go reweigh)

With the weights from those 3 weighings you will have all numbers needed to make an informed decision
Truck GVWR (always lower then the sum of axle ratings cause you can NOT equally load truck)
Truck FAWR
Truck RAWR
Truck MAX LOAD Rating A at MAX PSI (on sidewall)
Trailer tongue weight
Trailer GVWR

Over on Trucks GVWR---- Not that big of an issue
Over on Trucks Payload...not good but not real big issue
Over on Trucks RAWR....not good but how much---decision time
Over on Trucks Rear tires.......BAD...REAL BAD
Over on Trailers GVWR....not good---need to lose some stuff (shouldn't be an issue unless you pack EVERYTHING when most of it is not needed)

:B:B

Yeah thats the game plan...haven't had a chance to run this drill just yet. Heres a question for you, what if I weight my truck no trailer and the front axle weight in at 3600lb, once the WDH is fully hooked up, the front now weight 3300 lbs...is that right, if not how can I put some of the weight back to the front, minus taking the spare tire and putting it on the hood..jk?
Laziebun
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
Terryallan wrote:
so. 65 to 70. That is the top, and over the top speed your tires are rated for. Slow it down.
As mentioned. Air your tires, Trailer, and TV to their max PSI. The TT will follow anywhere you want to go.

Air in my truck tires are Max at 80psi. I made the mistake and air it to 65psi prior to picking ups the truck. BAD move as i was going around a turn, hit a few bumps and went sideways a tad. But I also feel that air the tires up to their max would be to much if I don't have the appropriate load...right? Trailer tires definitely looks tad soft, so I agree maybe airing it to the max-5psi..?
theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Apr 21, 2017
Do you have the heavy duty trailer towing option ? If not, you really should upgrade the radiator and transmission cooler.

You might need to upgrade the rear axle ratio to 3.73. This will add back a lot of "get up and go". If you are still riding low in the back and can not get the hitch back up to "normal" ride height with the weight distribution hitch, then you should look into adding air springs.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Apr 21, 2017
AS posted...

Max sidewall psi on truck & trailer tires

Then go to a set of scales and get weighed....CAMP READY (you/passengers/pets/backpacks, bags, stuff, trailer filled up with needed items and full fresh water tank)

Truck & trailer with WDH
Truck & trailer w/o WDH hooked up
Truck alone (just drop trailer in lot and go reweigh)

With the weights from those 3 weighings you will have all numbers needed to make an informed decision
Truck GVWR (always lower then the sum of axle ratings cause you can NOT equally load truck)
Truck FAWR
Truck RAWR
Truck MAX LOAD Rating A at MAX PSI (on sidewall)
Trailer tongue weight
Trailer GVWR

Over on Trucks GVWR---- Not that big of an issue
Over on Trucks Payload...not good but not real big issue
Over on Trucks RAWR....not good but how much---decision time
Over on Trucks Rear tires.......BAD...REAL BAD
Over on Trailers GVWR....not good---need to lose some stuff (shouldn't be an issue unless you pack EVERYTHING when most of it is not needed)

:B:B
the_bear_II
Explorer
Apr 21, 2017
around 60MPH in right lane and don't worry about slowing others down...that's what the right lane is for. On a two lane road, pull over and let others pass when it's safe and there are 5 or more vehicles behind you.

Leave plenty of stopping room from the vehicle in front of you.

Gear down on hills to save wear on the engine and trans. And gear down when going downhill to save your brakes.

Be a defensive driver...no distractions...know where you are going or let a navigation system guide you. Don't try to look at your map or map app on your phone while driving.. No texting or talking on a cellphone, even if it is hands free.