Older 7.3 diesel owners F350 - need advice

If the new trailer drops the rear too much you can always add air bags. There are several good brands now. I have Air Lift and really like them, but the Firestone have a good reputation too. I added the on-board air compressor a few years after buying them and wish I'd had them to begin with as you can adjust the lift/ride when the road conditions change without having to get out or stop.

I have made many mods to my truck, a few of which I feel are really good additions without being too expensive. One was a B&M transmission pan. It increases the amount of fluid capacity and really reduces the temperature under load. Definately have a tranny temp. gage. The same with the differential cover. I added a Mag-hytec differential cover. They have a few nice features, including a dipstick for checking fluid levers, a bottom drain, and install plug for a temp. sensor, increased capacity and fins to aid cooling.

Incidentally, the rear differential on the SRW F250/350 is usually the Sterling 10.25/10.5. The Dana 80 usually comes with the DRW. Ford wants all of us to believe that differential fluid is a lifetime product. It is synthetic, but is only 'Lifetime' if you don't keep the truck very long. It too needs to be replaced periodically, especially when you tow alot.

I only have 180K on my truck, but about a third of that was towing my 11,000lb trailer. The Ford is a great tow vehicle and the 2000 is about as dependable as a truck gets.

If the truck squats, check the rear springs carefully: you may have cracked a leaf.

My dually is slightly newer 2003), and has the 6.0L

We added the airbags and Tork-Lift Stabil-Loads to allow us to level our Truck camper (3500 lbs. +/-) and fine tune the engagement of the helper-springs. This allows the truck to not wallow with all of that weight in the bed.

We also pull a 33' gooseneck LQ horse-trailer that is probably 12K all loaded. For that, I just put 25-30 lbs. in the airbags and call it good.

If you do feel the need to go airbags, get the design that sits straight on the frame rails, an not the ones that have a buttress-design coming off the side of the frame. We did the buttress-type the first time, and the buttresses failed on us... Bags were fine, but the steel plates that held them warped/failed.

Agreed. Keep that truck as it is the best truck for the money.
I run a PHP HYDRA chip in my 99 F350 CC for improved towing power and the PHP chip allows up to 15 tunes that can be added or deleted with your own laptop and chip kept in truck. You can shift chip positions on the fly. I use stock, Heavy Tow, 65 daily driver,high idle and whisper at the bank. This PHP Hydra can be bought for 375.00
Here are sample of what is available for a stock 7.3

DIESEL CALIBRATIONS
CALIBRATION DESCRIPTION and IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Stock or Modified Stock Useful for emissions or diagnostic purposes
25hp Extremely Heavy Tow 12,500+ pounds
40hp Heavy Tow 10,000 -12,500 pounds
65hp Moderate Tow 7,500 - 10,000 pounds
80hp Light Tow Up to 7,500 pounds
65hp Daily Driver Good for all-around daily driving and economy
80hp Daily Driver
65hp Performance A little more aggressive than a Daily Driver while still
maintaining manageable smoke output
80hp Performance
100hp Performance
100hp Race Play time! Offers a more aggressive fuel curve for
improved low RPM response and top end power
120hp Race
140hp Extreme This is as big as it gets! (On stock injectors, anyway)
High Idle - 1,000rpm Ideal for PTO operation or for faster warm-ups.
We do not recommend exceeding 1,200rpm for safety reasons.
High Idle - 1,100rpm
High Idle - 1,200rpm
Whisper Mode™ Hit the drive-thru and place your order or do your banking
without having to shut off your truck
Valet Mode 25 mph Lowers the speed limiter
Valet Mode 35 mph
Valet Mode 45 mph
Teen Driver™ 65mph Locks the speed limiter at 65mph
Teen Driver™ 75mph Locks the speed limiter at 75 mph
Lope Idle Cammed Big Block Sound and Feel

I have an exhaust brake and feel that it is VERY helpful in hill and mountain territory. Other thoughts: Turn off OD on hill climbs. I have a bunch of extra leaf springs on the back as well as mods down in signature. I have pulled mine all over the southwest and northwest.... no problem. I only had to get towed once because of a failed alternator. Easy for me to replace myself. I get average 9mpg pulling and 16mpg highway not pulling. In parking lots and tight camp grounds be prepared to back into or run into or crush lots off things. Be happy that you're $50k ahead of the brand new truck guys. :-)

I have the Same truck, Dually,Crew ..7.3....290.000 miles.(Manual Tranny)...

Mine barely drops any...but If it did...I would add air bags...

Keep it.....

mobilefleet wrote:
wow these guys have heavier rig than me and do fine....I have a 99 PSD and my rig is around 12k.. I would recommend a trans cooler and gauge, best investment I made on my truck. I have not had any sag on mine either. rig is 38 ft

+1 on tranny cooler

I had a 2000 7.3 I bought new and I loved that truck. You can't beat the sound of that engine and it was a pulling monster. We pulled a 36' King of the Road all over the place and never any problems.

With those miles on it that truck is just now getting broken in. I would do the air bags, and possibly the transmission guage addition and keep right on going.
I have 220,000 on mine, probably 15 percent of that is towing and have no plans to let it go. I used to have to use it to commute and driving long distances working 3 states away, so most of my miles were unloaded. Now I have a company car and probably only put 10,000 per year on it, so I hope to have it 10 more years anyway.
I have replaced the ball joints with Moog greasable units,
New Bilstein shocks,
New front hub bearings
One transmission replacement 140,000 miles ago.
Truck still looks and drives like new, plus now we are at cheap tags, cheap insurance and it is all mine.

If it were me I would put some air bags on the unit and a Transmission tempature guage and go pull. I have a 2000 F-350 Dually 7.3 and pull a 32'GulfStream and have no issues.