Onan Generator in 996 Arctic Fox...how to?

[Powerstroke2000]

I have a 2010 Arctic Fox with the LP 2500 Onan Generator, and I thought today would be the day I'd do my first oil change! Couldn't find a lot of support online regarding this particular unit, so my first thought was to see if there may be here!
First, I'm unsure if when 'checking' the oil in the generator, if it is with the cap screwed in, or just sitting at the top...before screwing in?
I have 42.0 hours on my Onan...and I thought that is probably WAY too early, but I bought it in 2012, and it's never been serviced, other than at the dealer (possibly) when I bought it. Checking the oil, it's perfectly clean, as in just as clean as any oil you'd find when pouring out of a new bottle! Perhaps I don't need a change?
I checked the air cleaner, and it too has very little dust, but I did blow it out with my compressor, and little to nothing came from the air filter, and holding it up to the sky, LOTS of light still shows through the filter media all the way around it.

I realize, running with LP, it may be a very long time before oil may get dirty (have had a vehicle in the past running LP) so I'll assume it's fine to continue running it as it is?
As you can probably tell, the Generator doesn't get used all that often, and it always starts and runs just fine. Works hard when the Microwave is on...otherwise just hums along nicely. Kind of wish it where a little quieter, but other than that..no complaints.

I live in the Pacific Northwest, so with the moisture we get up this way, it makes me wonder if I should change the oil anyway?

Any thoughts/comments/advice would be welcomed. Thanks!

[brholt]

CAJW wrote:
I did another oil change on the Onan 2500LP this morning, what a pain! I'd always had some oil drip on the bottom pan and run out in other places, but today was a total mess! The design on the pan under the engine includes a 1/4" lip around the access hole for the engine oil drain plug, which helps send oil all over the place, not down into the drain pan as desired. To exacerbate the problem, the access hole is not centered on the drain plug making access difficult and re-threading the drain plug even harder. Dropping the plug into the bottom pan full of oil and then trying to retrieve that slippery brass (non magnetic) plug was not fun.
I'm looking at replacing the drain plug with a Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve, but with the offset access hole, I'm wanting to know if someone has already gone this route. It looks like I'll need a 5/8" long 1/4 NPT close nipple to drop the valve down to install it, but if someone has already figured this out, please post up.
Here's the link to the Fumoto website, trying to decide if I'll need the F107N, F107S or F107SX.

Fumoto

Picture of offset engine oil drain plug complicating the process.

My AF was just like yours except the access hole was offset enough that I couldn't get a socket on the drain plug. Ended up using a dremel to grind the access hole into an oval so that I could get the plug out. And yes, some of the oil then went all over the place and I ended up flushing the pan below the generator with soapy water. Bit of a mess.

[bighatnohorse]

Powerstroke2000 wrote:
Just checked and my Onan runs great, but it's not showing the 'hours' on the meter, which happens to be close to the 'on' switch inside my camper? Not sure if it's not sending a signal, or whether there is a connection I might need to check for? Thought I'd see if anyone else has ran into this?

Check for a connection problem. The meter should be recording run time.
Also, when removing the dipstick access cover on the 2500, check the backside of the cover for oil quantity label. Mine reads .6L/.63QT - the manual could be in error.

[Kayteg1]

Fumoto are great valves if there are no mechanical obstruction, but I do have several engines in construction machines where drain plug is not accessible at all.
Adding couple of inches of pipe nipple , or extend it with a piece of hydraulic hose solves all the issues.

[CAJW]

I did another oil change on the Onan 2500LP this morning, what a pain! I'd always had some oil drip on the bottom pan and run out in other places, but today was a total mess! The design on the pan under the engine includes a 1/4" lip around the access hole for the engine oil drain plug, which helps send oil all over the place, not down into the drain pan as desired. To exacerbate the problem, the access hole is not centered on the drain plug making access difficult and re-threading the drain plug even harder. Dropping the plug into the bottom pan full of oil and then trying to retrieve that slippery brass (non magnetic) plug was not fun.
I'm looking at replacing the drain plug with a Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve, but with the offset access hole, I'm wanting to know if someone has already gone this route. It looks like I'll need a 5/8" long 1/4 NPT close nipple to drop the valve down to install it, but if someone has already figured this out, please post up.
Here's the link to the Fumoto website, trying to decide if I'll need the F107N, F107S or F107SX.

Fumoto

Picture of offset engine oil drain plug complicating the process.

[Powerstroke2000]

Just checked and my Onan runs great, but it's not showing the 'hours' on the meter, which happens to be close to the 'on' switch inside my camper? Not sure if it's not sending a signal, or whether there is a connection I might need to check for? Thought I'd see if anyone else has ran into this?

[Eric_Lisa]

1) Read The Fine Manual. It sounds like generators vary. When in doubt review the documentation that came with *your* generator.

2) Just do it. This is cheap maintenance. It is about a 10 minute job, most of which is spent waiting for the oil to drain. On my generator it is a 14mm head on the drain plug.

[Dirtpig]

CAJW wrote:
Wow, lots of variations of advice here. My manual agrees with the oil check in that you do NOT screw in the dipstick to check the level. As far as quantity, my manual states for an oil change, drain while warm and refill with 0.6L/0.63 qt./ 20 oz of oil. Mine doesn't call for a filter so run, drain and refill, then you're good to go for another 100 hrs. In my book, oil is cheap so I change mine annually, regardless of how many hours which after 2 years, we've only got 15 hours on our 2500LP Onan. Oh, and don't drop the whole unit to change the oil, not necessary at all. Also to the OP, the AF996 was introduced in the Fall of 2012 as a 2013 model year, you sure you have a 2010 AF996? Possibly a 990? Shouldn't make a difference with the Genset, but might if you were to ask a question about some other part.

Wow, i just double checked my owners manual and my 2500LP Onan is definitely saying to add 1 qt of oil (.95L) I guess that 4years difference in our campers means they switched genny and HALVED THE OIL VOLUME IN IT lol. With only a half liter of oil in your genny i would for sure switch that out every year if it were mine. Happy camping bro. Link to my owners manual online (page 13 for oil details) http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/manuals/Onan_KVD_Man.pdf

[CAJW]

Wow, lots of variations of advice here. My manual agrees with the oil check in that you do NOT screw in the dipstick to check the level. As far as quantity, my manual states for an oil change, drain while warm and refill with 0.6L/0.63 qt./ 20 oz of oil. Mine doesn't call for a filter so run, drain and refill, then you're good to go for another 100 hrs. In my book, oil is cheap so I change mine annually, regardless of how many hours which after 2 years, we've only got 15 hours on our 2500LP Onan. Oh, and don't drop the whole unit to change the oil, not necessary at all. Also to the OP, the AF996 was introduced in the Fall of 2012 as a 2013 model year, you sure you have a 2010 AF996? Possibly a 990? Shouldn't make a difference with the Genset, but might if you were to ask a question about some other part.

[Dirtpig]

oil drain bolt is easily accessible on the bottom of your Onan the way arctic fox installs it. Pull the drain bolt, drain it, add 1 L of oil (1qt) and your good to go. to check, u dont screw in, this is pretty much standard practice in all small engines as far as i know. Personally i use synthetic oil and change it every 2 years no matter how many hours on it. synthetic also makes it very slightly quieter. If you use regular dino oil i would change once a year.

[arto_wa]

mike mck wrote:

arto_wa wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
It's a pretty small package. Might be fastest and easiest to pull it completely out service it and reinstall.

No need to pull out the generator for oil change- just drain & refill!


Per Onan MicroLite 2800/LP2500 manual:

1. First oil change after 20 hours.
2. After that, every 100 hours, or once per year.
3. Insert the dipstick, but do not screw it down for oil level check.

Cheers

Interesting My manual advises to screw it in to check.

That's odd!

Here is a page from my 2800/LP2500 MicroLite manual regarding engine oil level (See point 2.):

[mike_mck]

arto_wa wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
It's a pretty small package. Might be fastest and easiest to pull it completely out service it and reinstall.

No need to pull out the generator for oil change- just drain & refill!


Per Onan MicroLite 2800/LP2500 manual:

1. First oil change after 20 hours.
2. After that, every 100 hours, or once per year.
3. Insert the dipstick, but do not screw it down for oil level check.

Cheers

Interesting
My manual advises to screw it in to check. LP has no filter and takes just under 1 qt. I'm in AZ and use 10w40 in the summer and switch to 10w30 in the winter so it gets changed twice a year. Only 136 hours on the unit.

[arto_wa]

donn0128 wrote:
It's a pretty small package. Might be fastest and easiest to pull it completely out service it and reinstall.

No need to pull out the generator for oil change- just drain & refill!


Per Onan MicroLite 2800/LP2500 manual:

1. First oil change after 20 hours.
2. After that, every 100 hours, or once per year.
3. Insert the dipstick, but do not screw it down for oil level check.

Cheers

[Golden_HVAC]

3 years is a long time for oil to stay in the engine, even if it is not run very much. Yes moisture could be a problem, as condensation in the engine will land in the oil.

I would go ahead and change it, probably only going to be about 2 quarts of oil anyway. Problem seems to be reaching the oil drain point, and getting a funnel into that area to collect the oil. It might take a baking sheet pan, or something to get it out? That would be better than removing the entire generator - at least part way to get below the oil drain.

I would be putting in synthetic oil, as it will be durable for the next 5 years, or 150 hours of run time. . It will be less likely to absorb moisture from letting it sit.

Good luck,

Fred.

[donn0128]

It's a pretty small package. Might be fastest and easiest to pull it completely out service it and reinstall.