Our new Trailer 1975 Scamper
Hello, Here are some pictures of our new trailer that we have done a little bit of work getting it ready for this season. I have just took out the old water pump to see if it was the reason why th...
Forum Discussion
Hi,
Cool looking trailer. Remember back in the 70's, sometimes the water tank was made of steel, and there is a air compressor. That will pressurize the tank, and then water comes out of the faucets. If you have a plastic tank, then it would be connected to a water pump that has a built in pressure switch, and will run just like the systems in use today.
If you need to replace the steel tank with a plastic one, you might find one here. Tank-Depot.com Then you will require a demand type water pump. Look for a SureFlo rated around 2.2 - 2.7 gallons per minute.
If you "Plan" on using the existing steel tank, first check out the tank, and make sure it is not full of rust, (or leaking water or air) before investing the time and money to replace a air compressor or something.
Also you will typically have a factory installed "Converter". Modern RV's since about 1990 have electronic converter that in reality is a battery charger, and can accept anything from about 95 volts to around 135 volts, and will properly charge the battery at 13.8 volts, then drop back to a holding voltage around 13.2 volts.
Your converter will have two circuits. One might be a 40 amp circuit that is running from a fixed winding transformer, so with 120 volts in, you might get 13 volts out, and higher input means even higher output, and more frequent light bulbs overheating and burning out. 105 volts in means dim lights. The second circuit might be 5 or 7.5 amps (pretty small number) that is a dedicated battery charger coil. Also poorly regulated, it is a small coil to limit the amount of water it will boil out of the coach battery once it is full. However it is a VERY slow charger, and back in the 80's it was common to use a portable battery charger if recharging from a generator to speed up the process to less than 8 hours.
Have fun camping!
Fred.
Cool looking trailer. Remember back in the 70's, sometimes the water tank was made of steel, and there is a air compressor. That will pressurize the tank, and then water comes out of the faucets. If you have a plastic tank, then it would be connected to a water pump that has a built in pressure switch, and will run just like the systems in use today.
If you need to replace the steel tank with a plastic one, you might find one here. Tank-Depot.com Then you will require a demand type water pump. Look for a SureFlo rated around 2.2 - 2.7 gallons per minute.
If you "Plan" on using the existing steel tank, first check out the tank, and make sure it is not full of rust, (or leaking water or air) before investing the time and money to replace a air compressor or something.
Also you will typically have a factory installed "Converter". Modern RV's since about 1990 have electronic converter that in reality is a battery charger, and can accept anything from about 95 volts to around 135 volts, and will properly charge the battery at 13.8 volts, then drop back to a holding voltage around 13.2 volts.
Your converter will have two circuits. One might be a 40 amp circuit that is running from a fixed winding transformer, so with 120 volts in, you might get 13 volts out, and higher input means even higher output, and more frequent light bulbs overheating and burning out. 105 volts in means dim lights. The second circuit might be 5 or 7.5 amps (pretty small number) that is a dedicated battery charger coil. Also poorly regulated, it is a small coil to limit the amount of water it will boil out of the coach battery once it is full. However it is a VERY slow charger, and back in the 80's it was common to use a portable battery charger if recharging from a generator to speed up the process to less than 8 hours.
Have fun camping!
Fred.
