Outside satellite receptacle ?

Update, changed one of the two out today. The Satellite connector, and now I get a great picture once again. Tested here in the yard via my winegard automatic satellite dish. Now I will change the cable connector tomorrow, and seal back up. For now I temp. ordered some female caps for the ends

I bought the dual outlet like RoyB pictured from TV4RV.com for about $10. Be sure to buy some "blue" - 3Ghz rated barrel connectors from them if you're going to using Dish Network's Hopper receiver - they use "MOCA" technology and need 3000Mhz/3Ghz rated cables and connectors. Most RVs I've seen have cabling that won't support satellite receivers.

Thanks all, I assumed I would need to take them off. I will get new plates with covers, attach and seal. I just need to wait for the rainy weekend to move on out.

DutchmenSport wrote:
You will need to unscrew the entire plate so you can get to the back of the connector. There is a coax cable screwed into the other side of that little plug and the only way to get to it is to remove the plate so you can unscrew it. Then remove the plug and insert a new one, and reattach the coax inside the wall, and screw the plate back on. (Putty it of course).

Yes, and I would buy a new one with a cover to keep dirt and moisture out.

As noted above, just remove the entire plate, replace the connector(s) like these from Home Depot, reconnect the coax cable(s), reinstall the plate, and recaulk. No problem.

Dicor is probably preferable. But when I installed a new external coax connector for an additional coax input I just used regular outdoor grade white caulk from Home Depot. Replaced the F connector a few years later, removed the old caulk, and recaulked with the same.

You will need to unscrew the entire plate so you can get to the back of the connector. There is a coax cable screwed into the other side of that little plug and the only way to get to it is to remove the plate so you can unscrew it. Then remove the plug and insert a new one, and reattach the coax inside the wall, and screw the plate back on. (Putty it of course).

My setup looks like this



The F-Female connections seem to pretty resistant to corrosion.. Can't remember ever seeing one with corrosion...

The screws on mine are just wood type screws (no nuts or washers on the other side) and when removed you can just pull the whole assembly out and pull out the two RG cables away from the wall. You will have to reseal using dicor when you put it back... 2-minute job...

You might want to go to LOWES or AMAZON and buy a whole new assy if you like. The F-connectors on my setup are just adapters. When you pull the assy out you can see the Male F connector on the end of the Rg cable and you just unscrew that to remove the whole assembly... Be sure to note which side goes to CABLE and SAT...

Some other installation may be different but this is how my 5th wheel and OFF-ROAD Trailer is setup.

I actually Installed a second same assy and changed the two F-Adapters Connectors for Ham radio Type UHF Connectors that I use for outside Ham Radio setups... Access to the other side of this area was behind a removable panel so no problem adding a couple of new holes for the new RG cables.

Just an ADDED NOTE: If this is what you are using and you are getting a weak signal when being hooked to CABLE at a Campground hookup. Have you been making sure the ANTENNA PANEL BUTTON is OFF. This is the button that applies 12VDC to your roof mounted BATWING antenna preamplifier when you are using the OTA roof mounted antenna. If your small green or red led on the panel is ON you need to turn that OFF when using the CABLE INPUT.


Roy Ken