Pad in your yard

[sac89]

I currently park my TT on a narrow side of my house. I have been debating extending my driveway along the opposite side of the house (quite expensive) to park the TT on when not in use, but now I am thinking of putting a pad of some sort in the back corner of my yard with enough room to open the slide and extend the awning. I would like to put a picnic table out there and a small fire pit.

I only plan on being in my current home for about 3-4 more years, so I don't think I want to install a concrete pad. I am looking for some cost effective alternatives.

I was thinking about laying artificial turf in the corner, and park the camper, table and fire pit on top of that. This way I won't have to mow around and under the items.

Thoughts?

[danimal53]

I did a gravel pad in back of my house coming off the alley. It's next to my 2 1/2 car garage, and is wide enough to park 2 cars if needed. My TT is only 21' ball to bumper, so it fits easily. I figure I can always do concrete or asphalt later if I want, but the gravel has been sufficient and much cheaper. Word of warning, weeds do grow through/in the gravel, even with a high quality landscape fabric underneath.

As far as codes, I've seen plenty of gravel parking pads in my town, so I didn't bother checking. I know the code admin people actually do drive around looking for violations, and I haven't gotten any grief after a couple years.

[sac89]

I am liking all the comments, Thanks for them. Looking at these, with the plan of moving in a couple of years, I am leaning towards the crushed limestone, but the horse stall mats sound intriguing as well (and cost effective and removable prior to moving).

The thought process continues!

[rbpru]

I set a course of loose bricks to drive mine on. The neighbor used a number of pavers. Not nearly as good as a nice pad but I do not camp in my backyard.

Since it is not permanent, I can move it or remove it.

[OutdoorPhotogra]

You need to check codes and with a realtor. We put a pad in on the side of our house in Central CA including a 30 AMP plug. For our codes, flatwork didn't require a permit. Yes, the eletrical did but I was doing other electrical work at the time.

On the realtor, we were in an area with high RV ownership due to the proximity to Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and Sequoia. Putting RV parking in added $5,000 in value to my house and cost me $3,000 to install. Oh, and I got to use it for 5 years. I sold in a week and the buyer needed the parking and there were not other comparable houses on the market at the time with RV parking.

Worth considering and yes this depends greatly on the popularity of camping in your area.

[Boband4]

Whatever you decide, call the utility locator number - many areas have it as 811. I put in a gravel pad and found the county maps wrong. They were out to do a maintenance inspection and were grumbling that their gps maps showed I had covered a sewer access point. I was able to show them the manhole 4 feet away. Moral is look for accesses and valves and cleanouts and meters and all of that stuff to make sure you arent blocking or covering them.

[_1nobby]

skiles wrote:
I second checking your local codes.

It's not really "knowing the code"......because every municipality has some stupid code.


It's knowing your neighbors. Bylaw officers usually only respond to complaints.

[rockhillmanor]

I only plan on being in my current home for about 3-4 more years, so I don't think I want to install a concrete pad. I am looking for some cost effective alternatives.

Go to Tractor supply or any other local farm supply store neat your and buy "horse stall mats". They are thick and rigid. Will eliminate your RV from sinking into the ground also.

No zoning permit required for them. They are removable. Either leave them there for the next owner or pick them up and throw some grass seed down when you decide to put your house up for sale.

I have used horse stall mats for years for parking the MH on. And then added a few more under the awning for when guests came over that stayed in the MH. Far more less expensive than a concrete pad!

Stay away from horse mat specialty stores they are way over priced. And don't buy the interlocking ones. Just the flat rectangular and/or square hard rubber ones. Some have a diamond pattern on the some are just plain.

It's also what is used on the floor of many big gym's! :W

[Hannibal]

Here in Florida, concrete is taxable square footage while asphalt isn't. We decided to skip both and use the pea gravel from our old roof. It's every bit the mistake that's been pointed out here but I've been parking one RV after another on it for 20+ years. I definitely wouldn't do it again but not enough of a problem to dig it out and replace it.

[K-9_HANDLER]

I trenched and ran wire out underground to a post with an electric box so I could plug in trailer. Then laid down 3/4 stone. Leveled spot where trailer wheels would sit when parked with pieces of 2X12s. Then laied down two pieces of old rubber conveyor belt on top of the 2x12s. Tires only contact rubber belts and not wood or stones which I think adds to life of tires. Last set went 9 years and still looked good. Stone is cheap.

[Naio]

It's funny how municipal laws differ. Where I live, they want 'permeable' surfaces. There is a limit to how many square feet of your yard can have paved (concrete or asphalt).

In addition to concrete pavers (thick, thin, hexagonal, or cobblestone look) you can also buy brick-type pavers with holes in them, so the grass can grow up through. They are designed for parking, but to look ok when you are not parked there (look like part of the lawn). Might be worth considering.

[westend]

wannavolunteerFT wrote:
I am going to be the voice against gravel. I bought my current house and original owners had gravel at side of house, next owners rented house out and gravel wasn't maintained. when I bought the house, had no TT and spent 3 years trying to get random loose gravel out of grass area on that side. My plan for my current TT is to get concrete pads approx 24" square and 4" thick from concrete company. I think they are used for mobile homes (but not sure). They are thicker than ones from box stores and won't break so easily, but can be easily set to level and easily removed if not wanted at house sale.

Sounds like an appropriate plan but you may redefine what "easy" is after hoisting around a block of concrete that big. It should weigh in the neighborhood of 200 lbs.

The OP's plan of grass carpet without soil improvement may be a disaster, depending on existing conditions. If the yard is black dirt with sod and he lives in an area that gets typical rainfall, the carpet will eventually be pushed into the dirt and hold moisture underneath. Pulling a travel trailer across it will not improve things.

[K_Charles]

We parked our TT on the back lawn or the driveway for 20 years and it was never on the grass long enough to kill it. In fact our gravel drive is starting to grow grass where we parked the TT. last year we got a MH and I took it around back and parked it on the grass for a few weeks. Only you know what your back yard will do when you park on it. If it will turn into mud when it rains you may need some drainage to go along with the gravel.

[wannavolunteerF]

I am going to be the voice against gravel. I bought my current house and original owners had gravel at side of house, next owners rented house out and gravel wasn't maintained. when I bought the house, had no TT and spent 3 years trying to get random loose gravel out of grass area on that side. My plan for my current TT is to get concrete pads approx 24" square and 4" thick from concrete company. I think they are used for mobile homes (but not sure). They are thicker than ones from box stores and won't break so easily, but can be easily set to level and easily removed if not wanted at house sale.

[Campfire_Time]

As said above double check with your municipality. We have a gravel pad. We started with small stones then for refreshes we put crushed gravel down. Spray weeds with Roundup.