Hi all, I have a 16' Alpenlite camper. (Specs in sig) Well my refrigerator seems to have taken a dump on me and I decided to go with a fridge/freezer combo that's for a college dorm. To power the fridge as I drive I was thinking of wiring in a 2000WATT inverter to power the fridge. My truck charges the battery in the camper as I drive, but im not sure how many AMPS get to the battery. Also for people who have ideas or who have done this before, where is a good area to mount the inverter? and where's a good area to plug it in? Im guessing im gonna have to pull the fuse for the 32amp battery charger as im using this right?

More importantly, how many amps does the fridge use?

http://i.sears.com/s/d/pdf/mp-tc/10035576/prod_1500675112According to this spec sheet 115V/1AMPSo if my math is correct that'd be just around a 10AMP draw 12VDC? My truck is a diesel Dual Batteries 180AMP Alternator and im planning on putting the largest deep cycle I can find into the camper.

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What are you going to do when you are not driving? Do you want to be restricted to campgrounds with electrical hookups? Are you planning on stopping along the way for sight seeing, eating in a restaurant or any other activity?I think the dorm refridge idea needs to be rethought. You have a couple of better choices. First you could replace the refridge with a new unit. Or you could replace the worn out components.If you want to go with an electric unit, then I recommend getting a suitable 12v system which will use much, much less power than a dorm 120v unit. If you go that route, you should also consider solar power and a decent battery bank.

the camper is mostly used for hunting/fishing trips and some road trips to see far away family and friends. When Im not near shore power I have a generator I can plug in as im stopped. If im in a place that doesn't want a generator plugged in and I cant plug into shore power then I can just keep the fridge shut. It's mostly to keep beer, yogurt and veggies cold, i dont really pack ice cream or milk. this option to me is cheaper because my fridge in the RV now is in need of replacement. and retrofitting a dorm unit with a power inverter is cheaper. Even when I spend a day out hiking i'm not to worried about the fridge getting hot if it's not on. I can always toss the veggies on ice if needed. Plus the thought of needing to wait 24hr for an absorption fridge to cool off sound awful to me.

power inverter install | Good Sam Community

Alpinliteford07
Explorer
Jul 11, 2016

Got the inverter installed! it cool it'll flash the battery voltage. with the fridge running and some lights on to add a load, the battery stayed at 12.5V this is with the truck at Idle.
Alpinliteford07
Explorer
Jul 08, 2016
no, It's odd those extra doors came with the camper and there is no empty spot for it! lol oh well they're put to good use now!
AnEv942
Nomad
Jul 08, 2016
NICE!

You made the overhead doors?
Alpinliteford07
Explorer
Jul 08, 2016

Here are a few pictures of the fridge installed.
It's smaller than the RV one but it does have enough usable space for what I need. I'm waiting on the inverter and wiring so I've yet to install that.
I put insulation on the side to keep the elements out of the camper for when i'm hunting on those warm 10 degree F days! lol
Since the fridge was shorter I took that as a opportunity to go ahead and make another shelf for storage space!
I have the dinosaur electronics control module for sale ($60) if anyone can use it. I bought it maybe a month ago.

the more I think of it the more im leaning towards getting a 20Watt solar cell and slapping it on the roof to aide in charging the battery and making it last longer when im out hunting all day and wont fire the generator up to charge the battery until I get back in the evening.

Let me know what y'all think!
Alpinliteford07
Explorer
Jul 07, 2016
good news! I got the fridge installed. it's smaller than the RV fridge, but works like a dream I got it mounted in place and built a shelf over the top to help hold it in place. There is plenty of ventilation on the sides to help.
Alpinliteford07
Explorer
Jul 03, 2016

looks like a DC distribution block I might be able to tap into for either the inverter or for the truck to supply power.

Here are a few pictures of the camper

and im gonna pull the gas line, Im no longer using the stove because it wasn't there when i bought it lol
Alpinliteford07
Explorer
Jul 03, 2016
what's the Amp rating of the 7 pin? i'd like the truck to be able to run the fridge and the battery for backup/when im stopped. im thinking i'll run a wire to the camper and wire it to the upfitter switch so that I can keep all the batteries good.
Kayteg1
Explorer II
Jul 02, 2016
I installed 1750W inverter under my countertop, what is good location as battery compartment is there as well, so I needed 2 ft of cable + 1 ft loop for battery tray. Installed dedicated outlet over the countertop, while for microwave I cut the cable (that run under countertop as well) and installed plug on it.
This way I can replug cable going to microwave from shore power to inverter.
I was using household refrigerator in the past in my trailer.
30 amp truck charge is plenty even if you make 2-3 hr stops. Inverters do have over 95 percent efficiency, so spending big money for 12V compressor will not pay back ever.
But research inverters. Some of them have fans running all the time and those take some power regardless if the inverter is working or not.
I think for your set up, I would consider 400W inverter that has low idle draw just for refrigerator and 2k inverter for ovens when you need it.
time2roll
Nomad
Jul 02, 2016
Alpinliteford07 wrote:
when you say connect to a existing circuit via transfer switch, are you talking 120v?
Yes something like this:

http://www.donrowe.com/KISAE-TS15A-Automatic-Transfer-Switch-p/ts15a.htm

Has 2 inputs. Utility power and inverter power. One output to the fridge or other items. You don't have to power the entire panel.

For inverters I have and recommend GoPower sine wave.
http://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/go-power-gp-sw2000-12-inverter.html

2000 watt is kinda bulky so watch that it fits with plenty of ventilation before you click and buy anything. Possibly go with physically smaller 1000 or 1500 watt. To properly drive these things you should have a battery for every 500 watts so you really need 4 batteries with 2000w.

Since you will be plugged in at the destination I would think the standard 7-pin connector would get you there without issue. Otherwise upgrade later if existing proves inadequate.
Alpinliteford07
Explorer
Jul 02, 2016
kohldad wrote:
Since you have the upfitter switches, just use the 30A switch set to controlled by ignition. It is actually a relay controlled by the switch and will handle the amps you need. No need to add an isolator too.

just run a wire from the 30amp switch to a quick disconnect at the hitch then run a wire to the camper battery? the wire seems kinda small. should I run around the same size wire? or try to splice in a larger wire since the distance it probably going to be around 20' or so.