I like to camp all year round in all sorts of weather. Winter has its own special challenges. It can be cold, wet, windy or warm depending on where you go. I put together a set up that if the weather turns out too warm or turns bitterly cold I can disassemble or assemble in minutes and doesn't weigh more than a few pounds. Dense foam insulation for the windows and skylights and Fiberglass batts for behind all the hatch door and waste valve compartment. The Fiberglass just stays in place all winter and keeps the cold from finding its way inside, The camper rests on horse stall mats which keeps the bottom of the TC insulated.
I always have flannel sheets on the bed and two different thicknesses of down comforters to choose from when packing up. one that is 3" thick and for really cold trips one that is 6 inches thick
For the windows and skylights I wanted something simple that would stay in place without tape or adhesives and was next to indestructible, lightweight, not too expensive, would last many seasons, and most of all that I could put in place with zero brain power at 3am ( stupidly simple).
I went to a foam store and bought a 4x8 food sheet of dense closed cell foam for $75 and made cutouts for all the windows and skylights. That took thought on how not to waste foam so that I did not have to buy a second sheet. The prep to make everything work is what is slow and time consuming but once you have cut and fit everything it takes just minutes to pull it out of storage and have it in place in the TC.
The only place I had to use adhesives was on the frosted rear door window as it has a flared not square sill. For there I used 3m Quick lock vs velcro.
The skylights and vents all have snap in place panels and the foam fits nicely underneath them. The Hekki hatch over the bed took some thought but I just cut the panel so that is was snug in the long side and over wide on the short so that it fit in a curve and self holds to the shade frame
hekki
The dinette window foam uses the top of the dinette table as the bottom sill and fits behind the pull down shade which holds it tight to the glass, I have the same set up on the two kitchen windows which use the counter top as the bottom sill
Hatches and fiberglass
I have comfortably used this set up down to zero F.
Depending on anticipated temperatures I may or may not drain my water system (including the hot water heater). I start to contemplate it if there will be multiple days in the low 20s or below. regardless I add a couple of gallons of antifreeze to the black and gray tanks and I leave the cabinets open with the furnace on low during the trip if there is water on board in the tanks
other gear
Tire chains: put them on at home before the trip to make sure they fit at you can do it with ease. I use industrial zip ties to secure any excess links to prevent damage to the truck and I use a small wood block that fits in between the cross links. Just drive up onto the block and now the chain is free from the tire, no yanking pulling or cussing while getting the chain in place. you then pull forward a foot and retrieve the block.
Survival and fun stuff
Sharp axe and hand saw for clearing the road of downed small trees
Snow shoes and poles for fun hiking in the snow and for those times when you really need to get the hell out of where you are to get help as it beats the snot out of post holing in thigh deep snow
GoreTex gaitors keep the snow out of your boots
Ice Tracks to keep you from falling on your butt on icy roads or sidewalks, they take a minute to slip on to what ever type of shoe you are wearing and are worth their weight in gold
Shovel for digging out or for that one time when you need to dig a hole in the snow to make a cave and hole up
Henry 208 wet patch. I carry a tube for emergency leak stop in the tc. It is a complete pain in butt to remove but it is the only thing I have found that will seal a hole in the roof or skylight from a branch even in a driving rain storm or sub freezing temperatures
http://us.henry.com/roofing/mastics-and-cements/208-wet-patch-roof-leak-repair/
One other thing. Cotton clothes can kill you in the wet and cold, Only wear synthetics or 100% wool or silk when out in the woods they will stay warm when wet. I also carry goretex over pants and jacket shell
If you are going out of cell rage consider a SPOT device ( emergency locator beacon), a sat phone, or a 5 watt(or better) VHF radio to call for help if needed.
Most of all take lots of cool photos for your trip report:B
I always have flannel sheets on the bed and two different thicknesses of down comforters to choose from when packing up. one that is 3" thick and for really cold trips one that is 6 inches thick
For the windows and skylights I wanted something simple that would stay in place without tape or adhesives and was next to indestructible, lightweight, not too expensive, would last many seasons, and most of all that I could put in place with zero brain power at 3am ( stupidly simple).
I went to a foam store and bought a 4x8 food sheet of dense closed cell foam for $75 and made cutouts for all the windows and skylights. That took thought on how not to waste foam so that I did not have to buy a second sheet. The prep to make everything work is what is slow and time consuming but once you have cut and fit everything it takes just minutes to pull it out of storage and have it in place in the TC.
The only place I had to use adhesives was on the frosted rear door window as it has a flared not square sill. For there I used 3m Quick lock vs velcro.
The skylights and vents all have snap in place panels and the foam fits nicely underneath them. The Hekki hatch over the bed took some thought but I just cut the panel so that is was snug in the long side and over wide on the short so that it fit in a curve and self holds to the shade frame
hekki
The dinette window foam uses the top of the dinette table as the bottom sill and fits behind the pull down shade which holds it tight to the glass, I have the same set up on the two kitchen windows which use the counter top as the bottom sill
Hatches and fiberglass
I have comfortably used this set up down to zero F.
Depending on anticipated temperatures I may or may not drain my water system (including the hot water heater). I start to contemplate it if there will be multiple days in the low 20s or below. regardless I add a couple of gallons of antifreeze to the black and gray tanks and I leave the cabinets open with the furnace on low during the trip if there is water on board in the tanks
other gear
Tire chains: put them on at home before the trip to make sure they fit at you can do it with ease. I use industrial zip ties to secure any excess links to prevent damage to the truck and I use a small wood block that fits in between the cross links. Just drive up onto the block and now the chain is free from the tire, no yanking pulling or cussing while getting the chain in place. you then pull forward a foot and retrieve the block.
Survival and fun stuff
Sharp axe and hand saw for clearing the road of downed small trees
Snow shoes and poles for fun hiking in the snow and for those times when you really need to get the hell out of where you are to get help as it beats the snot out of post holing in thigh deep snow
GoreTex gaitors keep the snow out of your boots
Ice Tracks to keep you from falling on your butt on icy roads or sidewalks, they take a minute to slip on to what ever type of shoe you are wearing and are worth their weight in gold
Shovel for digging out or for that one time when you need to dig a hole in the snow to make a cave and hole up
Henry 208 wet patch. I carry a tube for emergency leak stop in the tc. It is a complete pain in butt to remove but it is the only thing I have found that will seal a hole in the roof or skylight from a branch even in a driving rain storm or sub freezing temperatures
http://us.henry.com/roofing/mastics-and-cements/208-wet-patch-roof-leak-repair/
One other thing. Cotton clothes can kill you in the wet and cold, Only wear synthetics or 100% wool or silk when out in the woods they will stay warm when wet. I also carry goretex over pants and jacket shell
If you are going out of cell rage consider a SPOT device ( emergency locator beacon), a sat phone, or a 5 watt(or better) VHF radio to call for help if needed.
Most of all take lots of cool photos for your trip report:B
Don't forget the rubber mallet to knock off all the ice hitchhikers. The ice can really put a damper on keeping you under your gvwr.
I also use some non-fiberglass thermal/sound insulation that is all natural. I grabbed a bunch of scrap material from a multifamily jobsite and put it all over the place, just make sure you have a hard hat and safety vest if you plan on raiding a jobsite ๐
I also use some non-fiberglass thermal/sound insulation that is all natural. I grabbed a bunch of scrap material from a multifamily jobsite and put it all over the place, just make sure you have a hard hat and safety vest if you plan on raiding a jobsite ๐
To deal with snow burying the generator we bought a dog tent and added more zippers to keep snow from drifting in. Keeps the generator dry and prevents puddles from forming inside when we put it under the table for traveling.
Winter camping also means dealing with lots of wet, or soon to be wet gear inside the camper. While a pain to unload when you want to shower, we added lots of suction hooks from Bed Bath and Beyond and used spring loaded curtain rods to hang more coats, goggles, gloves and hats.
To deal with the mud and gravel on boots when they thaw out we found a plastic storage box that fits in the shower. Tiles of Dri-Dek are in the bottom of the storage box to separate the melt water from the boots as they warm up. Makes for easy clean up and keeps the mess out of the shower drain.
As things dry out we vent the bath to eliminate the extra moisture.
Winter camping also means dealing with lots of wet, or soon to be wet gear inside the camper. While a pain to unload when you want to shower, we added lots of suction hooks from Bed Bath and Beyond and used spring loaded curtain rods to hang more coats, goggles, gloves and hats.
To deal with the mud and gravel on boots when they thaw out we found a plastic storage box that fits in the shower. Tiles of Dri-Dek are in the bottom of the storage box to separate the melt water from the boots as they warm up. Makes for easy clean up and keeps the mess out of the shower drain.
As things dry out we vent the bath to eliminate the extra moisture.
