Propane problem

[dpgerson]

What can be done with a propane tank that is full, but no propane is coming out? When it was being filled the guy had a problem at first. I guess nothing was going in and then finally it started going in. But now nothing will come out. Do I need a new valve on top? Do colder than normal temperatures ( it got down to 26 last night) have anything to do with it? The tank and valve are at least 13 years old.

[Kayteg1]

2 issues in the topic I experienced already.
1- the new safety valves inside tank valve don't always align with hose pin that suppose to push it.
On my BBQ darn thing would allow only for pilot light, but no big flame.
I ended up with removing the new hose with outer nut and put old one with inner plug, that works perfectly.
2-My propane generator would not start without starting fluid, but run perfectly after. It was the priming that was a problem and making topic here about it, I good couple of good advises. Not wanting to spend money on new regulator with prime button, I am carrying a piece of cardboard, that covers generator air inlet during cranking, giving it extra suction for fuel.
Problems solved for me and good luck to you.

[slickrock_steve]

Freep wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:
If you cannot get it to work, put it out in a field and shoot it with a high powered rifle and a FMJ bullet. That will 'dispose' of it in a flash..literally.

This is the kind of behavior that starts forest fires. Do not do this.

Exactly!!
This kind of behavior is very dangerous, and since propane is heavier than air, a breeze, even a slight one, could spread the flames all over the lowest point of the field. This looks like the old; "Hold my beer and watch this!"

[harley4275]

mkirsch wrote:
It's always fun purging the line to the fridge on my camper. The fridge uses so little propane it seems like I have to hold the pilot knob down for half an hour until the stuff coming out of the pilot starts to smell like rotten eggs. There's no point in pushing the clicker button until it starts to stink.

Just a hint here, light your stove burner first as that will purge most of the lines before you do the fridge.

[Freep]

SidecarFlip wrote:
If you cannot get it to work, put it out in a field and shoot it with a high powered rifle and a FMJ bullet. That will 'dispose' of it in a flash..literally.

This is the kind of behavior that starts forest fires. Do not do this.

[mkirsch]

It's always fun purging the line to the fridge on my camper. The fridge uses so little propane it seems like I have to hold the pilot knob down for half an hour until the stuff coming out of the pilot starts to smell like rotten eggs. There's no point in pushing the clicker button until it starts to stink.

[dpgerson]

Posted by mistake. Please remove.

[fpoole]

Yah, that would do it...

Also, as an FYI, as it might apply to the Onan, I use a little Honda 2000i (also have the Onan OEM in camper) and it will do the same thing on Gas, when it gets an low oil lite, but the light doesn't stay on. It'll run for a few minutes, then shut down...
so might apply to the onan too, dunno... but something to keep in mind..
Hope that helps..

[dpgerson]

Update from OP, me. It worked later that day when I tried it again. It actually may have been working all along, or flowing all along. What wasn't working was my generator comma my propane generator. It would start running about 5 seconds and then shut off like it wasn't getting any propane. So I'm guessing that when you run a tank dry while you're running a propane generator comma when you refill the tank it takes awhile for enough propane to get to the generator. The generator was an Onan 2500. Thoughts, gentleman? Ladies are also welcome to chime in.

[lakeside013104]

Old-Biscuit wrote:



Fifthly.......
Shooting a full propane cylinder with a firearm will cause a Hole in cylinder and allow propane to spew out. But it will NOT cause it to explode or a big flash etc.
Must have a source of 'ignition' to light off the propane VAPOR

MythBusters episode 95. Look it up.

Nice pictures OLD Biscuit.

First hand experience:

Full 100# (23.5 gallon) LGP tank standing upright with a burning road flare tapped to the back side about 4" lower than shoulder of tank.

From a 100 yard resting position I fired a 30-06 180 grain Hornady Spire pointed bullet at a marked spot 2" below the shoulder on the front side of tank.

Impact of the bullet put a 30 caliber sized hole in the front and a slightly larger hole in the rear of the tank exactly on the marked spot 2" below the shoulder. This was a direct line of sight through the vapor area inside the tank.

The impact of the bullet also caused the tank to fall over backward. Before the tank hit the ground the LPG vapor coming out of the hole in the back of the tank, which was under pressure, caught on fire. Immediately after, the LPG vapor coming out of the front hole, also under pressure, caught on fire.

The tank finished the backwards fall to the ground and began spinning in complete circles until all the LPG (liquid, because the tank was laying horizontal) had stopped flowing from the tank and burning.

I shot at this tank on a plowed field road in a very secluded area. There was 5' high frozen snow banks on the road I had plowed across my field. The banks were blackened by the smoky fire.

I had expected the tank to explode after I shot it. It did no such thing. It just vigorously burnt until all the pressurized LPG was consumed by the fire.

Lakeside

[joerg68]

Just for the record: If your tank is filled with propane or a typical propane-butane mixture, the 26F should not pose a problem.

If it was, for some reason, filled mostly with butane alone, you may not get any gas (vapor) from the bottle. The boiling point of butane is around 32F/0C.

(I learned the hard way, sub-freezing and no heat...)

[SidecarFlip]

One lesson I've 'learned' over the years was not to open the tank valve quickly, especially if the supply lines are empty. You have to do it gradually to allow the vapor to flow slowly into the supply system.

My old Lance that I sold had OPD valves on the horizontal bottles and it was a 2001 model I prefer the vertical bottles. The lay down bottles, while they take less room, cannot be exchanged and that could be an issue thought it never was for me.

[SidecarFlip]

Shooting a full propane cylinder with a firearm will cause a Hole in cylinder and allow propane to spew out. But it will NOT cause it to explode or a big flash etc.
Must have a source of 'ignition' to light off the propane VAPOR

MythBusters episode 95. Look it u

Why I stated full metal jacket not a lead bullet. A FMJ will cause ignition when it strikes the metal of the cylinder. I've tried it before. Makes a helluva bang. Actually, a 223 light armor piercing round works best because the pill has a steel insert inside.

[jmckelvy]

I had a hose in which the excess flow device stuck closed and would not open no matter what I did. Had to replace the hose.

Old-Biscuit you are a walking encyclopedia! 🙂

[Old-Biscuit]

First off.......
Your propane 'cylinder' is not old, obsolete etc.

OPD service valves have been factory installed since 1998

Your 13 yr old cylinder NEEDS to be recertified (required 12 yrs after date of mfg stamped oon collar)
Visual recert good for 5 yrs. then again every 5 yrs.



Secondly......
OPD is an 'overfilling protective device'.....stops the liquid filling at 80% liquid level

OPD does NOT stop vapor flow out of cylinder.
(Full cylinder --- float at upper limit stopping liquid but vapor still flows out. Even if float stayed at upper limit)




Thirdly....
OPD has a 'spring loaded shutoff valve' that can interfere with filling and WILL stop vapor flow out of cylinder

IF the propane vendors fill adapter does not OPEN the shutoff valve OR the pigtail hose is not screwed on tight enough then propane will not flow out.

There is a 'stud' inside the ACME Nut on pigtail hose that pushes the spring loaded shutoff valve open.
Vendors fill adapter must do the same

Also ACME Nut has a 'thermal bushing'(melts in fire--internals of ACME Nut slips back and spring loaded shutoff valve in OPD closes)
If bushing is old, weaken, cracked etc 'stud' could have problems pushing open the OPD shutoff valve.
Especially if you have the OLD style (first edition) bushing




Fourthly.....
Also quickly opening the OPD can trip the 'excess flow device' INSIDE the ACME Nut.
Close OPD wait 30 seconds and then SLOWLY open OPD





Fifthly.......
Shooting a full propane cylinder with a firearm will cause a Hole in cylinder and allow propane to spew out. But it will NOT cause it to explode or a big flash etc.
Must have a source of 'ignition' to light off the propane VAPOR

MythBusters episode 95. Look it up.




OPD---triangular handle, relief valve, liquid level 'bleeder' valve and connection (shutoff inside)



ACME Nut 'stud' that opens OPD spring loaded shutoff vlave


ACME Nut 'excess flow device' ---spring loaded ball bearing


ACME Nut thermal bushing (First Edition)


ACME Nut thermal bushing (Current Version)





IF anything is stopping the flow of propane vapor it would be either the 'ACME Nut excess flow device' OR the OPD spring loaded shutoff valve