Pulled my WH plug, is this calcium?

I got my replacement Friday. Actually, they sent 2 so I have 2 replacements!

Doug33 wrote:
I thought I read that there are some types of water heaters that don't need anode rods at all. Am I correct??

You are correct ... Atwood water heaters don't need an anode rod nor does the manufacturer ship them with one as the tank itself is aluminum. Regardless, some Atwood owners insist on using an anode rod anyway so the aftermarket supplies it. :S

My previous RVs all had anode rods in their tanks. However, my current TT came with a plastic plug with no rod. I thought I read that there are some types of water heaters that don't need anode rods at all. Am I correct??

Thank you for that! :) It is exactly what I had in mind. Sure wish I had known about it several years ago.
Barney

BarneyS wrote:

Seems to me they could make replacements with a some sort of hinge hinge in the middle so the new one could be put in without removing the heater. Maybe even two pieces with the middle wire core having a loop on the end and joined there.
Barney

They are available. one example

When I tried to remove and replace the anode rod on my home water heater, which is located in the basement of our home, I couldn't get it out because of the ceiling. I had to disconnect the whole heater from the gas and water lines, tilt it to the side, and then remove and replace the rod. A whole lot of work.

Seems to me they could make replacements with a some sort of hinge hinge in the middle so the new one could be put in without removing the heater. Maybe even two pieces with the middle wire core having a loop on the end and joined there. It is easy to bend the old one to get it out but you cant do that with the new one. Of course, if you have a ceiling that is 4 or 5 feet higher than the top of the heater you don't have a problem but my basement ceiling is only about 7.5 or 8 feet high and there was not enough clearance.

With our trailer, there is no anode rod since it is an Atwood. I just drain it, flush it with a water heater tank rinsing tool already mentioned earlier, put the plug back in, and then fill it again in the spring.
Barney

regarding cleaning the remains out of the tank in the RV, I vacuum it out through the anode rod hole. I have a piece of clear plastic tubing about 15" long that I duct tape to the end of the shop vac hose.....stick it in thru the hole and just keep moving it around until I get it as clean as possible.

I have a small electric water heater in my shop. The top cover needs to be removed, then the insulation has to come out. It was worth the effort because the anode rod was spent.

In my house, I have a GE hybrid water heater. No amount of breaker bar and man handling would break the anode rod loose. A 1/2" impact wrench did nothing, a 3/4" impact wrench did the trick.

Any future water heater installations will include a removal and re-install with teflon tape before use. That includes RV's as well.

Sometimes not so obvious on home tank. Mine was beneath a hole in the top skin, covered by a plastic plug, and foam insulated over. Just dig it out to find the anode top.

Ralph

On the home water heaters they insert through the top of the tank and are 3 to 4 feet long. You should see the hex plug of the rod at the top of the tank. Make sure you shut off the water to the tank. There should be a valve on the cold water inlet. If no valve you will need to shut off the water supply to the house. You'll also need to open the drain valve at the bottom of the tank to relieve pressure on the tank before attempting to remove the anode. You don't want any geysers inside the house. You can probably attach a garden hose on the drain valve and run it out an outside door. You don't need to completely drain the tank. Just enough to relieve the pressure and not have water pushing out the top of the tank.