Putting on Level Bubbles

[kirkl]

I need to add the leveling bubbles to my trailer. Would you guys use the floor of the trailer or bumper to set level on to get left/right level and would I use the floor for front/back? whats the best way to get it level for the bubbles?

Thanks

[wmoses]

kirkl wrote:
I need to add the leveling bubbles to my trailer. Would you guys use the floor of the trailer or bumper to set level on to get left/right level and would I use the floor for front/back? whats the best way to get it level for the bubbles?

Thanks

Kirk,

When adding bubble levels to your trailer, the trailer has to be at the best level that you can achieve, then you attach the bubbles so that they are at the zero / centre position - fore to aft and side to side.

In my case I went to a parking lot and levelled the trailer side to side using my levelling blocks, and based on a carpenter's level placed inside on the floor above the axles, and across the width of the trailer. In my case the fridge is in a slide that is approximately in line with the axles so that works out, but if it were located somewhere else the modern fridge has the operating tolerance and should be able to handle any slight tilt that you get at the campground.

I then took the carpenter's level and rotated it 90 degrees so that it was oriented longitudfinally then adjusted the level of the trailer using the tongue jack. That done I re-rotated it back to its original position and re-checked the side to side level.

Satisfied with that I attached the 2 bubble levels to the front right (curbside) corner of the RV, one on the front wall and one on the side wall, ensuring that the bubbles are in the middle.

That is it. Fine adjustments at the campsite is by levelling blocks and stabilizing jacks, in that order.

One point to note - the longer the trailer the more it will rack (twist) so making this into a rocket science project is a waste of time. And if the fridge is in a slideout you have another variable that can affect level.

That's my suggested answer to your question.

[DustyR]

fla-gypsy wrote:
Just a note, not much is level or square on an RV.

X-2

I long term in my TT six months+ at a time. I fall back on the Refrigerator theory, get it level and I'm a happy camper. Attach your levels front center and right side. My TT has two slides and I initial want the left side of TT one inch high to allow for suspension sag. Deploy the stabilizer jacks and slides. I'm a happy camper, if it is slightly off -- no big deal.

Not a time for absolute perfection, just a time to relax and enjoy.

[jaycocreek]

Forget about the silly refrigerator method

That's the reason aftermarket cooling units are a booming business.Been there done that.

When I set outside levels it is always when the refer itself is level!The quote above is why buying a used unit is so risky,like rolling the dice someone did not run there refer level and it is now dying a slow death!

[westend]

There are two ways ti approach those stick-on bubble levels, either as an indicator or a reference. An indicator method is that when the bubbles are dead center, everything is correct for camping. A reference system means that the bubble can be slightly off center from frame or floor level, bringing the best results for whatever you deem most crucial for leveling.

FWIW, a Bluetooth receiver with indicator, either audible or visual, can be used with most phones while the driver is operating the vehicle and the phone is held on the trailer. I've been shopping for one with audible tone but it isn't one of my high priority items as my rig can be off level by a good amount and still be comfortable. I do have a set of stick-on levels and always carry a stick level.

[F1bNorm]

mayo30 wrote:
Use the feature on your iphone,very fast and slick,shows degrees of tilt and direction .

X2

I had my wife drive around an empty parking lot, with me inside. Using walkie talkies, I watched the level app until we found a side to side level spot. I attached a 4-5" Hoppy level on the front drivers side of the TT at mirror level. If your eyes are good you can see the level in your mirror. At night, the stop light will illuminate the level. If boondocking I would drive around until I found a level spot. In a campground, with experience, you can estimate how many blocks are needed to level.

For front to back I use a bullseye level mounted on the A frame next to the tongue jack.

The routine was:
1. Level side to side with front Hoppy level
2. Chock the tires
3. Unhitch
4. Level front to back, very slightly hitch down. Using A frame level.
5. Lower rear stabilizers on pads, so they are just touching
6. Raise the front hitch jack to level. This is to slightly load the stabilizers.
7. If a small TT, this should be good. Large TT, lower front stabilizers

[BulldawgFan]

DutchmenSport wrote:
This question is asked many times. My suggestion is the outside door frame. Get it level front to back and side to side. Easy to do, just set a carpenters level on the hook side of the door (not the hinged side). Set it right up against the catch that keeps the door from pushing backwards. The level will be in the vertical (up and down) position. Get it level one direction, then turn it 90 degrees and get it the other. If the door frame is straight, then the rest of the trailer will be straight.

After that, install the bubble wherever you want.

You will find that no two objects on the camper match to level. So you have to just pick what is most important to you to be level. Some level by the inside of the refrigerator. Some by the shower floor. Some by the top of the stove. Some by the floor. Some by the bumper.

I found the door frame is the best, because it's always installed square to the frame, even if the frame has a natural arch (which one of my previous campers did have), making the floor out of level somewhere.

So pick your spot and use that. Like I said, the door frame works well, and the inside doors will not swing either, neither will cabinet doors or the refrigerator door.

Really trick advice. Nice post!

[mosseater]

I took a variety of surfaces into consideration since the frig isn't at touchy as they once were. Tub drain, counter top, cook top. Nothing worse than trying to get the water out of the tub when it's tilted the wrong way. And when water spills on the counter, it's nice to have it run to the front instead of back to the wall and down. It is true, though. Nothing is square on a trailer.

[DutchmenSport]

This question is asked many times. My suggestion is the outside door frame. Get it level front to back and side to side. Easy to do, just set a carpenters level on the hook side of the door (not the hinged side). Set it right up against the catch that keeps the door from pushing backwards. The level will be in the vertical (up and down) position. Get it level one direction, then turn it 90 degrees and get it the other. If the door frame is straight, then the rest of the trailer will be straight.

After that, install the bubble wherever you want.

You will find that no two objects on the camper match to level. So you have to just pick what is most important to you to be level. Some level by the inside of the refrigerator. Some by the shower floor. Some by the top of the stove. Some by the floor. Some by the bumper.

I found the door frame is the best, because it's always installed square to the frame, even if the frame has a natural arch (which one of my previous campers did have), making the floor out of level somewhere.

So pick your spot and use that. Like I said, the door frame works well, and the inside doors will not swing either, neither will cabinet doors or the refrigerator door.

[Lynnmor]

Jerallen wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
Forget about the silly refrigerator method

The reason for the "silly refrigerator method" is the importance of having it(the fridge) level for proper operation.

FROM A NORCOLD MANUAL
Leveling
Comfortable vehicle leveling is well within the operating requirements of 3 degrees off level side-to-side and 6
degrees off level front-to-back (looking at the front of the refrigerator). Continued operation outside of these limits
can result in irreparable damage to the cooling system.

A typical 8' wide by 30' overall length trailer could be off level by 5" or 10" side to side, and 19" or 38" front to rear, depending on which way the refrigerator is placed. Again, it is silly to tilt the whole darn thing needlessly. Just do the math.

With levels mounted correctly, one can see how much twist is induced in the trailer each time it is set up. If you have the foam mounted levels, remove the flexible foam and use VHB tape for a reliable mount.

[fla-gypsy]

Just a note, not much is level or square on an RV.

[dalenoel]

I first leveled the fridge and then checked the stovetop. If there was not too much difference I used the stovetop as my guide.

DW did not want eggs to slide to one side of the pan or have a cake with one site 1/2 inch thicker than the other side.

Wanted to keep her happy.

[mayo30]

Use the feature on your iphone,very fast and slick,shows degrees of tilt and direction .

[TenOC]

rbpru wrote:
I would take my level reading from the refrigerator; it is the only thing that seems to care. When the frig is level, I would attach my levels outside by the tongue jack.

In my case, the frame, floor, sink, frig and slide all show slightly different level readings. Therefore, I lay a level on the frame, then I jack the trailer level and do a quick check of the frig make sure it is close.

I am sure there is a bit of frame torqueing when the slide it out or the ground in not really level and the wheels are on blocks.

2X . . . . :B .. However, the modern refrigerators will work with 1/2 to a full bubble out. Old (30 years ago) refrigerators need to be level.

[Mark_and_Linda]

I have installed some of the small bubble levels on the back of my trailer near the bumper, left and right side, one in the middle and top of the bumper plus one on the front. The trailer had two on the front sides already installed. I can tell how close I am when I back into a spot. I also have a small level that I use once I am unhooked. My iphone has one on it. I use it if I want to get critical.