Question on condensation and using heat???

[the_maverick]

I know that using the heat in the cool spring nights will create alot of condensation. I have a max air fan that I use on low all night long when i run my furnace and i also crack a window on one end of the camper.. My question is, since alot of heat is going out the vent, should I still keep the window open? or is the vent being on enough to stop the condensation so that i can close the window at night? last spring I used both..thanks..

[RJCorazza]

We use a 70 pint GE dehumidifier. Works great, and yes it does make drying clothes easier in the closed bathroom in the summer also.

[BubbaChris]

If it was me, I'd be biased towards comfort and minimizing the amount the furnace needs to run at night. Then once things warmed up a bit outside in the morning/day, I'd open up windows and ventilate for a couple of hours.

[msgtord]

Oasisbob wrote:
Humidity is a common problem in RV's. Especially in my hybrid. I have a solution that TOTALLY fixes the problem if you have shore power. I have a portable electric water collecting dehumidifier I leave in the bathroom shower. I then dial the humidity to whatever I like. I can even dry cloths in that room . It can also heat my trailer. Not sure why this is not more used.

Do you have a brand name?

[Oasisbob]

Humidity is a common problem in RV's. Especially in my hybrid. I have a solution that TOTALLY fixes the problem if you have shore power. I have a portable electric water collecting dehumidifier I leave in the bathroom shower. I then dial the humidity to whatever I like. I can even dry cloths in that room . It can also heat my trailer. Not sure why this is not more used.

[SteveAE]

Hi, it looks like others have answered in the time that I composed my response, but here it is anyway.

Unless it is an unvented gas heater, the heater alone shouldn't add much moisture to the air. If it does, you might want to have the heater serviced.
Warming the air (however you choose to do it) allows more moisture to be held by that air and your breathing alone is probably adding the majority of the moisture. This moisture then condenses on windows and poorly insulated walls when the outside temperature drops.
The easiest solution is to increase ventilation. Try opening a ceiling vent at one end of the unit and crack a window at the other end. Then, when you shower or cook, turn on an exhaust fan. Yes, opening a vent and window will require the heater to run more, but that is the cost of this technique.
If you have shore power available, you could add a dehumidifier. But you will have the electric cost to run it in addition to the cost to purchase the dehumidifier.
Another option would be to dive your RV to someplace that is warm and dry.
Other, less viable options, include running the AC or not breathing (more specifically) not exhaling 🙂

[myredracer]

Always have a vent open a crack when in use to get a bit of air flow. Helps to open a window a crack at the opposite end of TT as well to get crossflow. When sleeping during the night, you want to remove the carbon dioxide (CO2) expelled by humans (and dogs) and bring in fresh air/oxygen. If you don't, you can wake up in the morning the air will feel stuffy and you can have a headache. Bodies also release a lot of moisture in the air that should be vented out, esp. when it's cold.

[westend]

I guess a lot would depend on how high the humidity gets inside the trailer. This could revolve around the humidity in your area and how you use your TT. If you are a high water user (everyone showers, do the dishes, boil water, have many people inside), then you would want to err on the side of a lot-o-ventilation. If there are few people, the air is not humid, and not a lot of hot water use, then you could back off on the ventilation. I usually leave just the ceiling vents cracked open when running the gas heater. Trying to strike a balance with keeping warm and keeping the condensation down.