Ram exhaust brake at slow speeds.

[CampingN_C_]

This issue was brought up in another tread and I didn't want to hijack it so..
On our first trip out with the new TV we went to the NC mountains...of course :B. Going up the 6-7 % grade was awesome to say the least. However, coming down didn't necessarily meet my expectations.
Now this was Hwy 226 for all you locals reading. Very twisty and slow speeds. By twisty I mean it was hard to stay in my lane on some curves.
I thought the EB would easily hold me coming down but I'm pretty sure it wasn't on. I had to keep stabbing the brakes to keep the speed down. RPM's were approaching 3K, close to redline. I wasn't really watching the speedo but I'd guess around 15-20 mph. I had it set on auto, should I have set it on full? Or will it just not work that slow.

[blt2ski]

Chris,

You "SHOULD" be able to do this. As I recall some of the later GM's has an electric actuator vs the vacuum in earlier models. And this was available from at least two places. Warn was one, do not remember the other. I did see adds in rags like Trailer Life, 4 wheeler and 4 wheel and off-road back in the day. Have not looked lately.

This option might help the OP. But as noted, no matter the brand, you do not always get engine braking out of an auto trans in 1st gear. UNLESS you have an emanual trans. Probably why at times I wish I still had my 96 K3500 6.5td, nv4500 and 4.10 gears. I could slow my 12K equipment trailer on the steepest of grades here in the seattle area, which was in the upper teen to low 20% range. A 7% freeway grade was childs play. Altho going up......with 185HP it was a bit slow compared to my 05 dmax with 300+ ponies:)

Marty

[Me_Again]

Will the new RAMs having an electric front axle CAD, I wonder how hard it would be to create a 2 Low setup like I had on my 2001.5 with a vacuum CAD?

Seems a single electrical switch might do the trick? Chris

[blofgren]

transamz9 wrote:

blofgren wrote:
As stated in this thread you definitely need to be in "Full" exhaust brake mode while towing (one press of the exhaust brake button). Two presses of the button puts it into "Auto" mode which I personally find a bit useless. I run mine in full all the time, even when driving solo.

Proper gear selection is critical as well. My truck is a 6 speed manual and my fiver weighs about 16k lbs loaded. Back in August we crossed Stevens Pass in Washington twice and I descended the pass mostly in 4th gear and the exhaust brake in full mode. I only touched the service brakes once on each side and actually had to give the truck throttle a few times and upshift to 5th gear because it was slowing us too much! Once you get more familiar with the truck you will learn which gear you need to be in for the grade/road conditions and you will find the exhaust brake works awesome.

As mentioned earlier, one of the major advantages to the manual transmission is that the exhaust brake works in all gears right down to 1,000 rpm. I find this is fantastic for descending large grades in campgrounds because I don't need to use the service brakes at all; this combined with the zero throttle launch feature means the truck just crawls around on it's own with the trailer in tow!

With the hand shaker being down 35 hp and 200 lbft of torque I'll just use my buttons on my shifter to manually shift my truck. I get slowed down to the point my exhaust brake don't work my foot brake will.

Definitely a matter of personal preference; I like the manual transmission and the increased reliability it gives over the auto. I also don't think that the difference in HP/torque at the rear wheels is nearly as much as the advertised numbers due to losses in the auto slushbox. But that's a whole different topic 😉

[transamz9]

blofgren wrote:
As stated in this thread you definitely need to be in "Full" exhaust brake mode while towing (one press of the exhaust brake button). Two presses of the button puts it into "Auto" mode which I personally find a bit useless. I run mine in full all the time, even when driving solo.

Proper gear selection is critical as well. My truck is a 6 speed manual and my fiver weighs about 16k lbs loaded. Back in August we crossed Stevens Pass in Washington twice and I descended the pass mostly in 4th gear and the exhaust brake in full mode. I only touched the service brakes once on each side and actually had to give the truck throttle a few times and upshift to 5th gear because it was slowing us too much! Once you get more familiar with the truck you will learn which gear you need to be in for the grade/road conditions and you will find the exhaust brake works awesome.

As mentioned earlier, one of the major advantages to the manual transmission is that the exhaust brake works in all gears right down to 1,000 rpm. I find this is fantastic for descending large grades in campgrounds because I don't need to use the service brakes at all; this combined with the zero throttle launch feature means the truck just crawls around on it's own with the trailer in tow!

With the hand shaker being down 35 hp and 200 lbft of torque I'll just use my buttons on my shifter to manually shift my truck. I get slowed down to the point my exhaust brake don't work my foot brake will.

[NC_Hauler]

blofgren wrote:
As stated in this thread you definitely need to be in "Full" exhaust brake mode while towing (one press of the exhaust brake button). Two presses of the button puts it into "Auto" mode which I personally find a bit useless. I run mine in full all the time, even when driving solo.

Proper gear selection is critical as well. My truck is a 6 speed manual and my fiver weighs about 16k lbs loaded. Back in August we crossed Stevens Pass in Washington twice and I descended the pass mostly in 4th gear and the exhaust brake in full mode. I only touched the service brakes once on each side and actually had to give the truck throttle a few times and upshift to 5th gear because it was slowing us too much! Once you get more familiar with the truck you will learn which gear you need to be in for the grade/road conditions and you will find the exhaust brake works awesome.

As mentioned earlier, one of the major advantages to the manual transmission is that the exhaust brake works in all gears right down to 1,000 rpm. I find this is fantastic for descending large grades in campgrounds because I don't need to use the service brakes at all; this combined with the zero throttle launch feature means the truck just crawls around on it's own with the trailer in tow!

About the same here, but with the 6 speed auto Aisin, the tranny qwill continue to slow the truck even when EB Kicks out when it gets to1k Rpm. I'v had to give throttle also on some down hills to pick speed back up.

[cummins2014]

Grit dog wrote:

NC Hauler wrote:

Grit dog wrote:

NC Hauler wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
The one guy had the right idea, get er in 4 low if you have to then you can work the upper gears at higher rpms. BUT if you're on twisty pavement that requires going that slow then you're making prety sharp turns. Get ready for the front axle to buck in 4wd.
That's the beauty of having locking hubs which no one offers anymore (no, Fords don't disconnect either. Basically the hub locks are a sales gimmick). You get 2wd low range.

For those that still don't understand why the factory turbo brakes don't engage in 1st gear, is the trans always slips in first gear, doesn't lock up the TC. That's where the last of the hand shakers shines because you can use a retarder in first gear.

I've never felt the need to put my truck in 4 wheel high, much less,4 wheel low when towing on type terrain we've been dicussing here.:h

My tranny is still slowing truck when it downshifts to 1st gear,and will continue to slow it.

Me either, on dry pavement, but the op apparently couldn't hold his load LOL, with the jake brake and service brakes at his speed and gear, so..........
Btw, you won't hurt a thing running in 4 wd on dry pavement.
I've driven and towed many thousands of miles in 4wd. Granted most was snow but dry stretches didn't blow up the truck.
Personally I would just not point my big 5ver down a twisty grade like that if the truck struggled to hold back the load.

I have used 4 wheel high and I know that I could run around on dry road in 4 hi, and truck would be fine..I'd use it if road conditions merited it..but again, have never needed it to help slow load down when towing.

Totally man. Me either, but OP sounded like he made it halfway down into Gila and was having issues. At that point, drop er in 4 low if you have to and creep down.

Not a very good idea if you are locked in 4 low on dry pavement , if having to do any turning. Those front tires grab pretty hard. A straight shot would be okay.

I converted my previous truck from auto hubs to manual locking hubs. Just like the old days being able to have 4 low without 4 wheel drive.

[Grit_dog]

NC Hauler wrote:

Grit dog wrote:

NC Hauler wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
The one guy had the right idea, get er in 4 low if you have to then you can work the upper gears at higher rpms. BUT if you're on twisty pavement that requires going that slow then you're making prety sharp turns. Get ready for the front axle to buck in 4wd.
That's the beauty of having locking hubs which no one offers anymore (no, Fords don't disconnect either. Basically the hub locks are a sales gimmick). You get 2wd low range.

For those that still don't understand why the factory turbo brakes don't engage in 1st gear, is the trans always slips in first gear, doesn't lock up the TC. That's where the last of the hand shakers shines because you can use a retarder in first gear.

I've never felt the need to put my truck in 4 wheel high, much less,4 wheel low when towing on type terrain we've been dicussing here.:h

My tranny is still slowing truck when it downshifts to 1st gear,and will continue to slow it.

Me either, on dry pavement, but the op apparently couldn't hold his load LOL, with the jake brake and service brakes at his speed and gear, so..........
Btw, you won't hurt a thing running in 4 wd on dry pavement.
I've driven and towed many thousands of miles in 4wd. Granted most was snow but dry stretches didn't blow up the truck.
Personally I would just not point my big 5ver down a twisty grade like that if the truck struggled to hold back the load.

I have used 4 wheel high and I know that I could run around on dry road in 4 hi, and truck would be fine..I'd use it if road conditions merited it..but again, have never needed it to help slow load down when towing.

Totally man. Me either, but OP sounded like he made it halfway down into Gila and was having issues. At that point, drop er in 4 low if you have to and creep down.

[blofgren]

As stated in this thread you definitely need to be in "Full" exhaust brake mode while towing (one press of the exhaust brake button). Two presses of the button puts it into "Auto" mode which I personally find a bit useless. I run mine in full all the time, even when driving solo.

Proper gear selection is critical as well. My truck is a 6 speed manual and my fiver weighs about 16k lbs loaded. Back in August we crossed Stevens Pass in Washington twice and I descended the pass mostly in 4th gear and the exhaust brake in full mode. I only touched the service brakes once on each side and actually had to give the truck throttle a few times and upshift to 5th gear because it was slowing us too much! Once you get more familiar with the truck you will learn which gear you need to be in for the grade/road conditions and you will find the exhaust brake works awesome.

As mentioned earlier, one of the major advantages to the manual transmission is that the exhaust brake works in all gears right down to 1,000 rpm. I find this is fantastic for descending large grades in campgrounds because I don't need to use the service brakes at all; this combined with the zero throttle launch feature means the truck just crawls around on it's own with the trailer in tow!

[NC_Hauler]

Grit dog wrote:

NC Hauler wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
The one guy had the right idea, get er in 4 low if you have to then you can work the upper gears at higher rpms. BUT if you're on twisty pavement that requires going that slow then you're making prety sharp turns. Get ready for the front axle to buck in 4wd.
That's the beauty of having locking hubs which no one offers anymore (no, Fords don't disconnect either. Basically the hub locks are a sales gimmick). You get 2wd low range.

For those that still don't understand why the factory turbo brakes don't engage in 1st gear, is the trans always slips in first gear, doesn't lock up the TC. That's where the last of the hand shakers shines because you can use a retarder in first gear.

I've never felt the need to put my truck in 4 wheel high, much less,4 wheel low when towing on type terrain we've been dicussing here.:h

My tranny is still slowing truck when it downshifts to 1st gear,and will continue to slow it.

Me either, on dry pavement, but the op apparently couldn't hold his load LOL, with the jake brake and service brakes at his speed and gear, so..........
Btw, you won't hurt a thing running in 4 wd on dry pavement.
I've driven and towed many thousands of miles in 4wd. Granted most was snow but dry stretches didn't blow up the truck.
Personally I would just not point my big 5ver down a twisty grade like that if the truck struggled to hold back the load.

I have used 4 wheel high and I know that I could run around on dry road in 4 hi, and truck would be fine..I'd use it if road conditions merited it..but again, have never needed it to help slow load down when towing.

[Grit_dog]

NC Hauler wrote:

Grit dog wrote:
The one guy had the right idea, get er in 4 low if you have to then you can work the upper gears at higher rpms. BUT if you're on twisty pavement that requires going that slow then you're making prety sharp turns. Get ready for the front axle to buck in 4wd.
That's the beauty of having locking hubs which no one offers anymore (no, Fords don't disconnect either. Basically the hub locks are a sales gimmick). You get 2wd low range.

For those that still don't understand why the factory turbo brakes don't engage in 1st gear, is the trans always slips in first gear, doesn't lock up the TC. That's where the last of the hand shakers shines because you can use a retarder in first gear.

I've never felt the need to put my truck in 4 wheel high, much less,4 wheel low when towing on type terrain we've been dicussing here.:h

My tranny is still slowing truck when it downshifts to 1st gear,and will continue to slow it.

Me either, on dry pavement, but the op apparently couldn't hold his load LOL, with the jake brake and service brakes at his speed and gear, so..........
Btw, you won't hurt a thing running in 4 wd on dry pavement.
I've driven and towed many thousands of miles in 4wd. Granted most was snow but dry stretches didn't blow up the truck.
Personally I would just not point my big 5ver down a twisty grade like that if the truck struggled to hold back the load.

[NC_Hauler]

CampingN.C. wrote:

IdaD wrote:
I don't use 4H on wet pavement but I use it all the time on snow and ice, even patchy snow and ice. I've done it for years in many different vehicles without issue.

Agreed, but I think some are referring to using it while towing on steep, dry roads.

Yeah, we're talking about not using 4 wheel drive when towing.. I've done it once when caught in between 4 to 6" of snow that caught me off guard whole towing I40 in the gorge from.Sevierville TN to Asheville NC. I used 4 wheel high while towing in the snowy slush...Wasn't fun, but we got home safely. Other than that and to PULL OUT of a wet or muddy site, I dont use 4 wheel drive when towing..just not needed even when towing steep, mountainous, curvy roads..truck does great job in 2 wheel drive

[CampingN_C_]

IdaD wrote:
I don't use 4H on wet pavement but I use it all the time on snow and ice, even patchy snow and ice. I've done it for years in many different vehicles without issue.

Agreed, but I think some are referring to using it while towing on steep, dry roads.

[IdaD]

I don't use 4H on wet pavement but I use it all the time on snow and ice, even patchy snow and ice. I've done it for years in many different vehicles without issue.

[transferred]

CampingN.C. wrote:
Yea, I can't imagine being in 4HI or 4LO while towing on pavement, can't be too good on the drive line.

I've towed in 4HI when it rains for 20 years. Never had an issue with the my trucks lasting 200-400k. Far better traction when hitting pooled water so long as you foot is holding a steady pressure on the pedal.

[CampingN_C_]

Yea, I can't imagine being in 4HI or 4LO while towing on pavement, can't be too good on the drive line.