I'm about to do some re-sealing to the roof edges on our travel trailer, to ensure no water damage. Attached find two images of the edge of the roof. I have a tube of Dicor Non-Leveling, Non-Sag Lap Sealant, which I have had very good luck with in the past. The TT is a 2011 model if that matters. Where the roof material comes over the edge of the roof, you can see in some places there is cracking and slight separation of old caulk. I would like to cut and remove the separated caulk before re-caulking, but I am very concerned that it will be hard to do that without scoring or cutting the roofing material underneath. So do you think I should just run a bead of my Dicor along there to cover and refresh the old caulk? Or should I instead overlap the edge with some Eternabond tape? Or, should I perhaps refresh the caulk AND then once cured, apply Eternabond over the edge?Looking for any suggestions or advice with this project. Thanks in advance! upload pictures internet

It might come up without cutting it just grab and pull. I've been able to use that method of two different RV's and it works fairly well. If it is a real bear to pull up I would just caulk over it. I have used and like Eternabond, but I've never wrapped it around an edge like where you have the cracking.As far as the big puddle of caulk in the back corner, I would definitely caulk over. It looks like there is a low point there and the manufacturer filled the area with caulk to prevent a standing water puddle that would be more prone to leak.

Regarding picture number one, remove all you can, use Dicor self leveling, let it cure and then tape.

Watching this, 'cause I gotta do the same this.

I wrapped Eternabond all the way down to the gutter on my trailer about 15 years ago. It's been more or less bullet proof. The only caulk I removed was to give the tape a smooth surface to adhere to. I glommed a couple layers of tape over the those corners, then used a little self leveling caulk on the edges.

Thanks everyone, for all your responses! Much appreciated!

Resealing the Edge of the Roof, Dicor, Eternabond, or Both?

Carvhors
Explorer
May 05, 2020
beemerphile1 wrote:
Those that take Eternabond over the edge to the gutter - did you remove the plastic screw cover or leave it in place?

I removed it. This allows the Eternabond to also seal the screwheads that are holding the aluminum gutter/trim on.
Carvhors
Explorer
May 05, 2020
beemerphile1 wrote:
Those that take Eternabond over the edge to the gutter - did you remove the plastic screw cover or leave it in place?

I removed it. This allows the Eternabond to also seal the screwheads that are holding the aluminum gutter/trim on.
beemerphile1
Explorer
May 04, 2020
Those that take Eternabond over the edge to the gutter - did you remove the plastic screw cover or leave it in place?
ksg5000
Explorer
May 03, 2020
I elected to use Eternabond along all the edges in my Class C many years ago - my 91 is still leak free. When you apply eternabond pay attention to the "prep" work as it requires a clean surface to properly bond. You should remove the loose caulk ... if you elected to remove all the caulk (not mandatory) I would recommend that you use an oscillating tool with a special caulk remover blade (rounded flexible blade that isn't sharp and won't harm roof membrane).
rhagfo
Explorer III
May 03, 2020
Lwiddis wrote:
Regarding picture number one, remove all you can, use Dicor self leveling, let it cure and then tape.

No Self leveling on a vertical surface, us non sag. I use plastic scrapers to clean off old calk on the roof, with rounded corners and work carefully.
mleekamp
Explorer
May 03, 2020
The last 2 units we bought (a TT, then our C in late 2018), one of the first things i did was use a roll on the roof at all seams...where vents/skylights are, and on edges front and back. Why? Got tired of small leaks here/there on an older unit, and when i just Eternabonded the seams on that roof, it stopped. Now, I feel the time/cost is worth it up front.
phemens
Explorer
May 02, 2020
Same here, went around all the edges of the roof with Eternabond, it comes halfway up from the gutter, 4" tape. 1st thing I do on any RV I get.
jdc1
Explorer II
May 02, 2020
Lwiddis wrote:
Regarding picture number one, remove all you can, use Dicor self leveling, let it cure and then tape.

Yep. It's easier to wait for a warmer day. It's more pliable. Use a flexible putty knife to remove the old caulk.
crcr
Explorer
May 02, 2020
Thanks everyone, for all your responses! Much appreciated!
TurnThePage
Explorer
May 02, 2020
I wrapped Eternabond all the way down to the gutter on my trailer about 15 years ago. It's been more or less bullet proof. The only caulk I removed was to give the tape a smooth surface to adhere to. I glommed a couple layers of tape over the those corners, then used a little self leveling caulk on the edges.