Camper?
I am not an expert here, but got some years under my belt with 2 different Arctic Fox campers, also used in AK for a year.
1. No slides. The extra room is great, but for your application, KISS principle applies.
2. Largest tank sizes you can get is real nice for off grid. Doesn't matter in the winter when you can't really take advantage of them, but one person with big tanks can go a long time.
3. Camper design, I'm with you on the Northern Lite/Bigfoot type clam shells. They just look warmer! IMO, this is where you spend alot of time finding one in the best condition possible (assuming you're going used) and other wise, don't give alot of weight or consideration to little "features." You will be modifying things, alot, to weather a blow while you're out on the Haul Road. All are full featured and your priorities are on making it the most weather proof, survivable unit possible, not whether it has a nice spice rack or a bigger fridge.
Speaking of amenities, most all newer campers have AC air-conditioning. As soon as you buy it, advertise the AC for sale in Seattle and remove it. You won't need it and you don't want it anywhere in AK anytime, for any reason. This I'm certain. You can add a vent, insulate the opening, whatever. Pocket the cash and use it for some other modifications, a bunch of beer, or your first couple fuel fillups when you head north.
Tie downs, don't even think twice, get Torklift for your application.
You can go cheap on the actual tie downs, Fastguns will just get goobered up. I'd use a cheap cushion mount and chain and hardware store turnbuckles.
Suspension, not much different regardless of truck. Good shocks, front susp is fine, rear, add a sway bar and your choice of extra spring capacity. May need more or less suspension depending on the truck and camper. Don't even worry about this until you have both units.
Tires, don't get truck with 17" rims, or plan on getting a set of takeoff wheels in 18" or 20" preferably. And get some tires in the 3700lb or greater load rating.
Consideration for where to mount a diesel heater (direct vent) in the camper would be something in my mind camper shopping, as would LP capacity. 2-30lb bottle capacity is almost a must IMO.
Generator. I would 1000% want a HONDA 2000/2200 period. No built in. Those are all LP fired AFAIK in TCs. Noisy, vibrations, less efficient, less useful (can't take it with you to "plug in" the truck if you're using it solo overnight in -30 weather), waste of space, the list goes on.
Storage for fuel, extra tires, generator etc, since you're building a real Overland rig and not some magazine mall crawler "overland" truck.
You get 1 spare in the factory location, easy.
3 spares is overkill and you're doing something wrong or have the worlds worst luck if you need 3. If no front tool box, mount it up front of the grille, with toolbox, I'd stick it on top of the camper. It better not be needed frequently and if you need it, you'll figure out how to get it down from there!
I would 100% add a front hitch to use for a rack/toolbox. I'd probably keep the genny inside the back door of the camper for your use. It will also be the "cleanest" place on the truck, as you know driving the gravel roads up there.
The front of the truck will be light, best place to add "weight."
There are some super nice heavy duty double receiver setups. Many involve custom fabrication. This aint you.
Get the best front hitch you can, heavy duty plug in rack and the biggest toolbox you can fit on it. Bonus points if you can raise it up higher. Block the grille, you will not overheat the truck due to it. It will block bugs in the summer and may help keep your radiator in tact if you clip a caribou or a moose.
You can secure it better to keep it from rocking back n forth, just minor details... Tools, spare fuel, recovery gear, I'd maybe even consider a toolbox/fuel tank combo here, but that is getting pretty deep! I'd have zero worry about carrying gasoline on a front rack anywhere in AK, except maybe driving through Los Anchorage at rush hour. Just not the same risk as populated areas when your biggest risk of hitting something is a moose or a tree!
Lighting?
Many options if you don't have the front box. Assuming front rack/box, you could mount driving lights on it, but...rock damage. Assuming your camper overhang/truck roof profiles allow, I'd put one big @ss LED light bar roof mount at the top of the windshield. If you need fogs, figure out how to get those on the front, maybe in place of OE driving lights if not blocked.
Other outside storage locations, you can use the rear hitch for a rack to carry stuff too. It's just in the way most of the time getting in and out of the camper though. I used a rear rack as a step up for a while. It's doable, but if using the camper alot, stairs that you can easily deploy are worth it.
You can also use the rear ladder for hanging storage. Not super heavy, but 10 gal of fuel, or your generator, or.
Can you tell, I've thought about this once? LOL
Just some suggestions...
When you're ready to talk tools and gear, just call back...lol
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold