Not sure what size your camper is, but these pics are from a camper I restored last year. This camper is set up on tandem 3,500# axles. This 2004 camper has a 5,500# GTVWR. The wheel-to-wheel spacing is less than the standard 33" spacing; this one is at 32" nominal.
The camper originally had underslung axles making it a low rider. I gained more ride height and fender well clearance by doing an over/under axle tube conversion (AKA axle flip). It also allowed me to use the Road Armor.
Here is the camper as I acquired it. It had mega water damage, but the inside was in good shape, not abused, and was a perfect candidate for restoration. You can see how low riding this camper was and the fender well clearance.
Here is the upgraded Road Armor on it after the axle flip. This was not enough ground clearance for the Road Armor with the drop axle before the axle flipped. If the axles were not drop axles (straight axles), then it could have worked.
The Road Armor worked out well on that setup, I just had to deal with the ground clearance on the drop axle setup.
I have a Keystone 5th wheel in the shop now doing a brake job; it is a 10,000# GVWR camper with 4,400# tandem axles. It has had the Road Armor since new; the camper has been used for 3 years, and the rubber and equalizer parts have held up well so far.
I hope this helps,
John
PS, in case you have never seen a drop axle, see here. This pic is during the over/under conversion. The axle spindle is upside down in this pic. while adding the extra axle seat on top of the axle tube.
The old axles as they came out of the camper
You can see here the axle tube is lower than the axle spindle and wheel center, lowering the camper. Look behind the large C clamp press, taking the rusted pins out. The spring pack is on the bottom of the axle tube.
The camper originally had underslung axles making it a low rider. I gained more ride height and fender well clearance by doing an over/under axle tube conversion (AKA axle flip). It also allowed me to use the Road Armor.
Here is the camper as I acquired it. It had mega water damage, but the inside was in good shape, not abused, and was a perfect candidate for restoration. You can see how low riding this camper was and the fender well clearance.
Here is the upgraded Road Armor on it after the axle flip. This was not enough ground clearance for the Road Armor with the drop axle before the axle flipped. If the axles were not drop axles (straight axles), then it could have worked.
The Road Armor worked out well on that setup, I just had to deal with the ground clearance on the drop axle setup.
I have a Keystone 5th wheel in the shop now doing a brake job; it is a 10,000# GVWR camper with 4,400# tandem axles. It has had the Road Armor since new; the camper has been used for 3 years, and the rubber and equalizer parts have held up well so far.
I hope this helps,
John
PS, in case you have never seen a drop axle, see here. This pic is during the over/under conversion. The axle spindle is upside down in this pic. while adding the extra axle seat on top of the axle tube.
The old axles as they came out of the camper
You can see here the axle tube is lower than the axle spindle and wheel center, lowering the camper. Look behind the large C clamp press, taking the rusted pins out. The spring pack is on the bottom of the axle tube.
I have read a fair number of complaints about the MoRyde. Lippert has several different designs (sizes and shapes) and you need to pick the one that best simulates the existing rigid equalizer you have now.
I have not installed one due to the design of my equalizer vs what is on the market.
I have a Dexter equalizer that is identical to this one. It is unusual in its height and short distance between the front and back shackle bushings (six inches) The problem is, it is 4 inches high.
The closest fit is this Lippert Road Armor unit, but it is 3-1/2 inch so it would lower my trailer a quarter inch (half the amount it is shorter) and I already had to go with 2-1/4 long shackles to get the thick ones and longer bolts, as the only 2 inch ones were super thin, like I had originally. Cannot stand to have the trailer any lower.
For me, this one is way too small.
For me, this is the proper 4 inch height but an inch and a half too much spread, possibly a problem.
Nothing else comes close for me. HINT, Etrailer has these pics with dimensions added for most of their equalizers, some don't but they do give the two critical dimensions in those cases (mostly Dexter products are the ones lacking pics w/dims) You may need to scroll to the bottom of the page to see them for some products.
Charles
I have not installed one due to the design of my equalizer vs what is on the market.
I have a Dexter equalizer that is identical to this one. It is unusual in its height and short distance between the front and back shackle bushings (six inches) The problem is, it is 4 inches high.
The closest fit is this Lippert Road Armor unit, but it is 3-1/2 inch so it would lower my trailer a quarter inch (half the amount it is shorter) and I already had to go with 2-1/4 long shackles to get the thick ones and longer bolts, as the only 2 inch ones were super thin, like I had originally. Cannot stand to have the trailer any lower.
For me, this one is way too small.
For me, this is the proper 4 inch height but an inch and a half too much spread, possibly a problem.
Nothing else comes close for me. HINT, Etrailer has these pics with dimensions added for most of their equalizers, some don't but they do give the two critical dimensions in those cases (mostly Dexter products are the ones lacking pics w/dims) You may need to scroll to the bottom of the page to see them for some products.
Charles
