Rubber vs Solid Roof

Once you have all metal or glass, the other stuff is fun to read about the maintenance and misc issues.

I cannot imagine a situation where my buy or not to buy decision was based on a rubber or fiberglass roof.

I suppose if everything else was the same between two TTs I liked, I would go with the Fiberglass. However, one is making the assumption that the fiberglass roof was installed properly and the roof was properly prepped before hand.

Just like wood vs. aluminum studs, the type of frame, floor construction, outer skin cover etc. those decisions are made by the manufacturer. They are usually based on the market niche they are going after.

Wild Card wrote:
No offense...but been in a coastal environment all my life and have worked with fiberglass since I was an infant. It's actually wax...literally wax that comes to the surface. Never heard it called blush.

You are CLEARLY much more knowledge than I. Amine blush.

SidecarFlip wrote:

Fireballsocal wrote:
Pros, it won't deteriorate like rubber and it will stand up to scrapes and possible punctures. It doesn't need a conditioner. It still needs all the holes and joints re-sealed every 3-5 years. I don't see a con to fiberglass myself.

Not true. Seals and caulk need to be inspected at least yearly or better yet, every 6 months not every couple years. A couple years wait can result in water leaks and nasty things going on inside the walls.

I'll take a glass roof over rubber anyday. The rubber membrane is thin and can tear easily from just a branch dragging over it. Glass don't tear and a repair is as easy as some bondo.

Having said that, my preferred choice is a one piece aluminum sheet roof. Will last forever.

I keep my RV's at least 10 years, sometimes longer. My last one had an aluminum roof that looked as good as the day it was new (12 years old) and my new one is glass, 3 years now and looks fine.

I completely agree. That's what my Layton has and why I'm so hesitant to get rid of it. I believe some models of KZ trailers still have one piece aluminum roofs

theoldwizard1 wrote:

Assuming it is standard thickness fiberglass and not just a thin 'glass material like Filon affixed with contact cement.

Fiberglass boat decks/roofs are almost always multiple layers of cloth (many styles and thicknesses). The substrate/"core" is wetted and the first layer applied. More slow hardening resin is applied so that the cloth is thoroughly wetted out and all air bubles can be worked out. Before the resin starts to harden, a second layer is applied, wetted and a third. The reason this layers are done at the same time is because epoxy resin leaves a film (called "blush") after curing which must be sanded off before additional layer of resin and cloth are applied.

Fiberglass boat decks are completely different. It's not an occasional maintenance trip on them to check them out while walking carefully and gently. It's multiple people walking around, anchors being dropped and other hard treatment.

Fiberglass RV roofs don't need to be very thick. The plywood underneath provides the structural strength. Just needs to be enough to be water proof and not to crack due to vibrations.

Seriously doubt, they would use epoxy resin for a fiberglass RV roof. It's significantly more expensive and for standard fiberglass that isn't going to be submerged, just not worth the cost. Polyester resin would be much more appropriate and perfectly serviceable.

Epoxy does generate an "amine blush" which is a waxy material but given the thickness, the glass is going to be put down in a single installation, it's not an issue.

Where Epoxy does make sense is for repairs. It's easier to get good adhesion compared to the less expensive polyester.

If you want a small repair on your roof to be impossible to see, yeah, you need a fiberglass repair guy or some skill but since it's largely out of sight, and ugly but completely serviceable repair is quite easy.
- Wash and lightly sand the puncture or small crack.
- Mix the resin per the directions (use small batches as epoxy in particular generates heat as it cures)
- Paint some epoxy on repair area.
- Layout 2-3 glass patches onto the wetted area (any autoparts store has them). Overlap the area by at least 2-3 inches. Using more resin work them in so they are transparent with no bubbles.
- Sand off the worst bumps and stray strands of glass and slap a coat or two of enamel paint (epoxy will eventually deteriorate if exposed to the sun).

Our first TT was a 1991 Prowler. It had a tin roof. That was the best one. Good forever with hardly any maintenance. The last RV was a motorhome with rubber and it was constant maintenance. Of course it was 27 years old when I sold it. The current TT is a 2017 with rubber. It's light weight but, I don't trust it in the long run. I'd rather have fiberglass any day. Easy to fix and last a lifetime.

theoldwizard1 wrote:

afidel wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
Fiberglas might last a bit longer. But few keep an RV long enough thatmthey need to replace the roofing. Fiberglas if damaged is harder to repair.

Not at all, any competent boat shop can fix a fiberglass roof.

Assuming it is standard thickness fiberglass and not just a thin 'glass material like Filon affixed with contact cement.

Fiberglass boat decks/roofs are almost always multiple layers of cloth (many styles and thicknesses). The substrate/"core" is wetted and the first layer applied. More slow hardening resin is applied so that the cloth is thoroughly wetted out and all air bubles can be worked out. Before the resin starts to harden, a second layer is applied, wetted and a third. The reason this layers are done at the same time is because epoxy resin leaves a film (called "blush") after curing which must be sanded off before additional layer of resin and cloth are applied.

No offense...but been in a coastal environment all my life and have worked with fiberglass since I was an infant. It's actually wax...literally wax that comes to the surface. Never heard it called blush.

afidel wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
Fiberglas might last a bit longer. But few keep an RV long enough thatmthey need to replace the roofing. Fiberglas if damaged is harder to repair.

Not at all, any competent boat shop can fix a fiberglass roof.

Assuming it is standard thickness fiberglass and not just a thin 'glass material like Filon affixed with contact cement.

Fiberglass boat decks/roofs are almost always multiple layers of cloth (many styles and thicknesses). The substrate/"core" is wetted and the first layer applied. More slow hardening resin is applied so that the cloth is thoroughly wetted out and all air bubles can be worked out. Before the resin starts to harden, a second layer is applied, wetted and a third. The reason this layers are done at the same time is because epoxy resin leaves a film (called "blush") after curing which must be sanded off before additional layer of resin and cloth are applied.

FWIW, I have an aluminum roof and it is easy to seal since I used Eternabond tapes on everything.
I won't have to worry about it billowing in the wind as happens to some rubber roofs. A fiberglass roof would also eliminate that problem. One downside to my roof is that it isn't walkable up there.

Fireballsocal wrote:
Pros, it won't deteriorate like rubber and it will stand up to scrapes and possible punctures. It doesn't need a conditioner. It still needs all the holes and joints re-sealed every 3-5 years. I don't see a con to fiberglass myself.

Not true. Seals and caulk need to be inspected at least yearly or better yet, every 6 months not every couple years. A couple years wait can result in water leaks and nasty things going on inside the walls.

I'll take a glass roof over rubber anyday. The rubber membrane is thin and can tear easily from just a branch dragging over it. Glass don't tear and a repair is as easy as some bondo.

Having said that, my preferred choice is a one piece aluminum sheet roof. Will last forever.

I keep my RV's at least 10 years, sometimes longer. My last one had an aluminum roof that looked as good as the day it was new (12 years old) and my new one is glass, 3 years now and looks fine.