cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Sagging in cab-over bed area -> how bad is this?

jornvango
Explorer II
Explorer II
Well, it looks like we got what we paid for. We are going to take a road trip south of the border for a few months and wanted to buy an older, cheap TC for the trip. Since we're TC newbies, we're now finding out what can go wrong when you buy one of those ...

As usual, the seller answered a firm 'no' on my question if it had any water leaks or rot.
Now that I'm preparing the TC here for the trip, I noticed the carpet in the cab-over bed looks pretty new ... too new to be original. I pulled it up and found a lot of paper-thin particle board, however, I don't think it's rotten (with my extremely limited knowledge). I pulled up some of the particle board and saw the original 'real' wooden pieces underneath which I also don't think are rotten.

However, see the attached picture: it shows the cab-over area sagging in the middle. Some of the screws in the center seem are loose and I can basically push them back into the camper with my finger.

In light of our upcoming 3 month trip ... what is my best option?

1) ignore this, you won't fall through the floor when sleeping

or

2) this is bad: the supporting wood floor is probably rotten and you need to replace this immediately

or

3) it's OK, just screw some bigger screws in the middle seem to hold it together and put some caulking on the seem

Thanks ๐Ÿ™‚




36 REPLIES 36

covered_wagon
Explorer
Explorer
In your situation I'd hammer out a deal to trade in on a new one. Making a good enough deal that what I spent on the used one becomes a non issue.

Go get full coverage and head for mexico.

Camp__Forrest__
Explorer
Explorer
I'm kinda lazy, so I would throw a piece of 3/4" plywood in the cab over under the bed. It looks like it's basin the middle so distributing the weigh out to the edges would help. The worst thing that would happen is you would fall through to your cab, but I doubt that'll happen.

Others will disagree, but that's my two cents.
-2000 Chevy K3500 CC DRW 7.4L, Auto; 2000 Arctic Fox 1150 WB; 1999 Bayliner Capri 1800LS Outboard
-Air Lift bags, Torklift tie-downs, Superhitch w/48", Rancho RS9000X, K&N FIPK, MagnaFlow exhaust.

MikeJinCO
Explorer
Explorer
I wouldn't head south if there is any question. There are only a few roads in Mexico that are as smooth as any paved road in Texas. The roads and topes(speed bumps)there can really take a toll on campers. On our first trip with a wood framed Hallmark we almost lost the battery box. Our current Bigfoot is riding on an external steel frame I built when one of the frame beams started coming apart causing a sagging floor. It is 11.5 feet long with just too much overhang.

dadwolf2
Explorer
Explorer
Construction method sounds like a torsion box to me. The first/top layer could be fine while the bottom layer might be rotted.

Looking at your other post with the tie-down problem, I would not trust that corner for anything.

IMO you have two choices: 1-start a long refurb project. 2-buy something else.
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 CTD,4X4,NV5600
2014 Adventurer 86FB

67avion
Explorer II
Explorer II
What's going on here? The ghost of Slackercruster?

jornvango
Explorer II
Explorer II
The wood underneath the carpet doesn't look rotten to me, but I'm no expert. It just looks like cheap plywood, as thick as maybe 1/8 inch.

It's glued together. When I lifted it, the wood underneath doesn't look rotten.

However, underneath the TC (over the cab), when I push on it, it's loose. The screws are very short so tomorrow I will try to screw a longer one in there to see if it holds or, if the wood is rotten, if I'll be able to pull the screw back out with my hand.

shellbackcva59
Explorer
Explorer
See the new hex head screws underneath? Try removing them and see if they go into solid wood? If they feel tight removing them, then the framing may be solid. When you uncovered what you thought was original wood under the bed, did it look like it was screwed down and you might be able to remove it and see what's going on underneath?

jornvango
Explorer II
Explorer II
With today's labor rates, I'm hesitant to find a carpenter to replace all the wood that needs to be replaced. Seems like more of a D-I-Y project but unfortunately we're staying with family and have no space / tools here for something like this. We're really in a bind here ...

Unless we can find a durable fix for a good price and quickly, we might cut our losses and buy a better one. WASTE of money and we hate it, but being stressed is not worth it. It's after all just money.
Of course the urge to give our seller a horrible review on Yelp and other internet sources is big ... we contacted him to complain about his false statements and hasn't even dignified us with 1 answer. He has a pool business in a small community so our bad internet reviews would definitely hurt his business. Eye for an eye ...
On the other hand, life is too short to waste on people like him.

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
do some searching in your area ask everybody ,you might find a small wood repair shop. my local hospital has a carpenter shop, theres men working in that shop that could fix this. start asking around.

Dome
Explorer
Explorer
if you look at the stains around the screws and seams you should know that it's caused most likely by water intrusion. just saying.

llavaseur
Explorer
Explorer
Get up in there and bounce around, you will find out how strong it is. may not be anything to be concerned about.

covered_wagon
Explorer
Explorer
I see many campers that have varying degrees of sag in this area. Most are not rotted or leaking water into this area.

You have to think about the amount of area this usually thinly structured area is together with the constant weight of two people sleeping there.

If this area where to be structured to carry a normal floor load i.e. for two people it would need to be as thick as a house frame 2x4's,6's,8's,etc. The size of the framing thickness takes up head room above so they go as light as poss. on an rv being hauled. The size of normal weight rated framing depends on the amount of spacing between each frame member and the span distance to the load point on the rim.

Anyhow the strongest structures in wood are those that use douglas fir old growth (very expensive)or standard Doug fir with a glued and fastened plywood skin on top and the bottom. I think that most TC manufacturers are using 2x2 framing (very lite but not great for weight carrying)with a lite interior and ext. skin.

In contrast to your experience I bought a brand new camper and have had many leaks. No leaks into the bed area thus far but does have the same bed sag you are showing.

In the first place your camper is too close to the cab roof so add some spacing under the camper in the bed of the truck. Next is to get the leak stopped and open up the bed structure like you say and rebuild it.

Always remember the frame size and spacing with a glued and fastened skin adds lots of strength.

My bed sag is so weak/ flexible you can see people turning in bed from the outside.

trail-explorer
Explorer
Explorer
those new shiney screws are... new and shiney. they aren't original. THe PO tried to fix it.
Bob

Mike_Hohnstein
Explorer
Explorer
I see learning carpentry skills in your future..........

kerry4951
Explorer
Explorer
Not to pour salt in your wound, but didnt you notice the added lag screws and the staining? Unfortunately you can never go by what the seller says. You have to be your own detective.
To answer your previous question, I would guess that your TC is all wood framing. Aluminum came out later.
2009 Silverado 3500 dually D/A, Supersprings, Stable Loads, Bilsteins, Hellwig Sway Bar.
2010 Arctic Fox 1140 DB, 220 watts solar, custom 4 in 1 "U" shaped dinette/couch, baseboard and Cat 3 heat, 2nd dinette TV, cabover headboard storage, 67 TC mods