Sierra 2500 fifth wheel hitch - factory prep vs aftermarket

[mtbfamily]

Hi all,
We are in the market for a TV to haul a Grand Designs 311BHS fifth wheel. A close friend is selling their Sierra 2500 Denali that was equipped to tow a travel trailer. I'm wondering what the difference is between having an aftermarket fifth wheel hitch setup on that vs finding a used vehicle that has the factory prep kit. I read that one potential advantage to the factory prep is that when the hitch is out of the bed, nothing is sticking up...but that maybe those are also available aftermarket. Also the GMC marketing page for the kit implies that the factory prep is stronger and provides a better towing experience. I'd prefer to buy my friend's vehicle, as I know it has been very well cared for (and it's an easy transaction), but not if I'm making a big sacrifice in terms of towing/convenience/utility.

[jerem0621]

I’d buy the one that is a Dually. JMHO.

Yea I know that single rear wheels have xxxx payload etc etc. I’d still skip it and get a dually.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[ACZL]

Me Again wrote:
What ^^^^^ Russ said. Chris

Times 3

[IdaD]

mtbfamily wrote:
Here are the 2017 4x4 Crew cab short bed Denali payload numbers:

2500 gas. 2500 diesel. 3500 diesel.
2943lb 2513lb 3927lb

That's why I am asking about 2500 w/suspension mods vs 3500.

In most cases a 2500 with suspension mods is a 3500. In some cases a 2500 without suspension mods is a 3500.

If you can get a better deal on a 2500 I'd buy it and throw bags or Timbrens it if necessary. There's no functional difference at the end of the day.

[Me_Again]

What ^^^^^ Russ said. Chris

[rhagfo]

mtbfamily wrote:
Here are the 2017 4x4 Crew cab short bed Denali payload numbers:

2500 gas. 2500 diesel. 3500 diesel.
2943lb 2513lb 3927lb

That's why I am asking about 2500 w/suspension mods vs 3500.

Far better off with a 350/3500 to start with, than to put bandaids on a 250/2500.

[mtbfamily]

Here are the 2017 4x4 Crew cab short bed Denali payload numbers:

2500 gas. 2500 diesel. 3500 diesel.
2943lb 2513lb 3927lb

That's why I am asking about 2500 w/suspension mods vs 3500.

[opnspaces]

mtbfamily wrote:
Hello again everyone. So it turns out that my friend's Sierra 2500 gasser doesn't have the payload I need. I've read some people solving that with suspension mods like Roadmaster Active Suspension, Timbren, and/or air bags. I don't know anything about those.

The fifth wheel we want to buy is 11k empty and 14k GVWR. We want a crew cab, short bed, 4x4, and a nice, quiet(ish), comfortable interior for the 4 of us (like the Denali package from GM). I'm also now thinking I would prefer diesel since this be used primarily for towing in the west and just occasionally for picking up large things nearby home.

So, I'd love people's perspective on:
- 2500 D-max with suspension mods vs a 3500?
- What should I know about the different model years?
- What are the comparable Ram, Chevy, Ford trims and years that I should be considering?

Wow, proof that at least somebody read the forum before buying a truck. 🙂 Just curious what is the payload for the Denali?

I think you'll find that unfortunately the comfortable package adds weight which subtracts payload.

[mtbfamily]

Hello again everyone. So it turns out that my friend's Sierra 2500 gasser doesn't have the payload I need. I've read some people solving that with suspension mods like Roadmaster Active Suspension, Timbren, and/or air bags. I don't know anything about those.

The fifth wheel we want to buy is 11k empty and 14k GVWR. We want a crew cab, short bed, 4x4, and a nice, quiet(ish), comfortable interior for the 4 of us (like the Denali package from GM). I'm also now thinking I would prefer diesel since this be used primarily for towing in the west and just occasionally for picking up large things nearby home.

So, I'd love people's perspective on:
- 2500 D-max with suspension mods vs a 3500?
- What should I know about the different model years?
- What are the comparable Ram, Chevy, Ford trims and years that I should be considering?

[mtbfamily]

Ok awesome, thank you!

[JIMNLIN]

Depends on the trailers front corner profile. Newer trailers have the rounded/notched from corners made for short bed trucks.
Also GM trucks C/A (cab to axle) is longer and many owners find a std hitch works fine even with older trailers.
My son pulls a 34' rear bunk model with a 2015 chevy and now a 2018 2500 GMC crew cab Z71 Dmax/A with a non sliding hitch.

Several top quality rv type std 5th wheel hitches out here.

And two light weight (40-60 lbs) 5th wheel hitch systems like the Andersen or look alike PullRite SuperLite series. They all have websites so do your home work on what you want.

[mtbfamily]

Ok thanks everyone for the info. I'll definitely buy my friend's truck, since it seems I will still have the option of the factory puck kit if I want it. Since the truck is a crew cab, I guess it's considered a short bed...and I'm reading that I need to buy specific hitch and/or pin equipment to ensure clearance?

[jerem0621]

This is just my opinion and is worth what you are paying for it.

I would not let the absence of the factory pucks keep me from purchasing the truck as long as the truck met every other need. There are many options out there including the above bed rails (Industry Standard Rails) and several below bed options from many manufacturers.

The most popular under bed option seems to be the B&W turnover ball and the accompanying Companion fifth wheel hitch.

But there are SEVERAL options that are strong and well built that will do the job.

As far as the anecdotal statement about a horse and buggy, it’s not really applicable because a single horse and a buggy would not be able to tow any camper (including a pop up) at highway speeds (55-75 MPH) or travel 400-800 plus miles per day in relative comfort.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[rhagfo]

Lantley wrote:
Do you guys really remove your hitches that often that it even matters?
I never remove my hitch. I generally camp from March through November.
There are only 3 months in the dead of winter I don't camp. I just leave hitch in truck the entire time. Rails or pucks are not a big issue. A clean unobstructed bed is overrated.

We full time and seldom remove the hitch, only if near my DD and need to haul materials. Our 2016 Ram had the puck system when we bought it used. I chose to get the Reese adapter frame for our existing Reese 16K twin jaw hitch.
Once I got the frame’s latches adjusted for zero play and installed the hitch I noticed the hitch fit tighter to the frame than it had to the rails in our old TV. Previously at times when stopping or starting this little bit of play would result in a noticeable clunk from the hitch, when the hitch moved in the rails. Now the fit is much tighter and don’t get that any longer.

[Lantley]

Do you guys really remove your hitches that often that it even matters?
I never remove my hitch. I generally camp from March through November.
There are only 3 months in the dead of winter I don't camp. I just leave hitch in truck the entire time. Rails or pucks are not a big issue. A clean unobstructed bed is overrated.