I have a 1968 Avion C11 that has the three lift jacks from the factory. There is one lift jack on the passenger side and two on the drivers. Can I assume that Avion centered the one jack on the passenger side for weight balance ? It's not as critical with the Stable Lift I don't believe but thought I would ask. I purchased a used stable lift that I'll be installing this summer and I'm planning ahead for where it has to be on the camper AND where I want it on the truck. Ideally I can mount this so I can have access for example to the fuel filler on the truck. I can call stable lift but thought I would start here. Thanks

Typically, the TC is mounted on the truck with the Center of Gravity (CG), balance point front to rear of the TC, at the center of the axle or 2 to 3 inches in front of the axle center. If you mount the Stable Lift single jack within that area it should have no problem. There are a couple of things to consider. The single jack will be lifting 50% of the TC weight. Depending on which jack was used on your lift, it probably is rated between 2,500 and 3,500 pounds. The lift has a hoop at the bottom, which spreads the TC weight over a pretty large area, including on uneven ground. Typically, the front hoop tubing that goes side to side are mounted directly below the original front jacks of a four jack systems. The rear hoop tubing typically ends up at the back bumper, and not at the rear of the TC. On my 11.5 foot TC, the rear hoop side to side tubing crosses at the rear bumper, which is about three feet from where my original jacks were mounted. The lift jacks opposite the single jack side are only supporting 1/2 the weight each as the single jack side. With this in mind, I can't see how it makes a difference function wise as to where they are located.Each TC is a little different and makes the lift a bit difficult for one size fits all.Do you have any instructions on how to install the lift?Wayne

I do not have install directions the previous owner did not have them as the lift came on a dead camper he purchased. I don't want to over think this, as you point out the SL spreads out the load. I'll get it centered on the camper as best I can and also see where the cross over pipes are in relationship to the bottom of the truck. I've been on SL's website many times so I have a decent idea how it works/mounts. But it never hurts to get additional opinions. Thanks

I do not consider myself to be an expert on the stable Lift by any standards. I did in fact install my Stable lift by myself with no help, years ago. The only mistake/redo I had was the plates inside the TC, used to sandwich the existing TC overhang with the Stable Lift outside plate. Initially, I used 1/2" plywood. Overtime, the mounting bolts wicked water to the plywood. This caused the plywood to fail with the carriage bolts. I replaced the 1/2" plywood with 1/4" aluminum, and have had no issues since.The plate inside the TC does not need to be one continuous piece, it can be several pieces.I did/do not like the three toggle switches provided by Stable Lift. They work great, but you cannot see what is happening on the opposite side of the TC. I made a wire remote for my lift. I can raise my lift from either side of my TC, and also have a connector inside the TC to raise or lower the lift.I do have as source for the gear box and motors. If I can be of help, let me know. I am sure you will appreciate your Stable Lift as much as I have mine. Mont, at Stable Lift, was very helpful with my install.Wayne

Reddog1 yes I had already planned to make the internal sandwhich plates out of aluminim plate for the very reason you suggested. I know for a fact the passenger side I'll have to replace the plywood in the jack area because it has slightly collapsed. I may skip the factory sandwhich of wood/foam/wood and go strictly wood for the strength. The switches I think for now I'll use them but I can see where your modification has merit but for now they work so I'll use them. I do appreciate your feedback it is very helpful.

One advantage to the Stable Lift is the fact it lifts the TC in such a way it can't strip the bolts out of the wood, like regular jacks can. It lifts the TC kinda like a forklift would.My TC is the molded fiberglass. The "sandwhich" is; 1/4" Laun, 1-1/2" foam, and 1/8 to 3/16" fiberglass. Steel Stable Lift outside, and 1/4" aluminum inside. You do not want to adjust the lift saddles so the lift is too tight in the tie-down mode. I think 3/4" pre-load is as much as you want. I use about 1/2".If I can be of help. let me know.Wayne

stable lift installation- centering question | Good Sam Community

rfuerst911sc
Explorer
May 06, 2013
4XMike thanks any info is helpful.
4xMike
Explorer
May 06, 2013
rfuerst911sc wrote:
Unfortunately I did not get those in this deal so I will have to make these.

When I bought my used camper it came with only one saddle, so I had to make 3 more for my truck. It was nice as I was able to use the one as a template. I made them out of 3/4" all-thread and 1/4" steel strap that I pounded into half-round into shape in a vice. Pictures of the saddles are on the last page.

Here is my build/install thread from when I widened my SRW StableLift to fit onto my DRW truck. Hopefully you will find at least a nugget of useful information in it that will help with your install.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26007763.cfm
lunatic_in_bc
Explorer
May 05, 2013
OK any time you have a minute would be great. Just curious how you did it as it sounds like a great idea. I have been mulling over doing the same but hadn't come up with a plan. PM sent.
Reddog1
Explorer II
May 05, 2013
I have some photos, but it is questionable they will help much. If you PM me your email address, I will send you some photos, as well as some basic instructions as to how I made my remote.

It may take me a couple of days to get back to you, as right now I have limited time and my internet connection is very slow for photos.

Wayne
lunatic_in_bc
Explorer
May 05, 2013
Reddog 1, do you have a picture of the wire remote you made for your Stablelift?
Reddog1
Explorer II
Apr 23, 2013
Gotta run errands right now, I will see if I have more photo tonight.

This may help, but it is a bit dark. Each vehicle is a little different. There is quite a bit of room to move the front or rear part of the hoop forward and back.
rfuerst911sc
Explorer
Apr 23, 2013
Wayne your explanation makes perfect sense and the picture is a bonus. If by chance you could take one or two pics of the rear in relationship to the bumper/spare tire that would be very helpful. And how did you post the picture ? I haven't figured out picture posting on this forum yet. Thanks for the help........Rick
Reddog1
Explorer II
Apr 23, 2013
You understand correctly. As I am sure you are aware, when you raise the lift up and the hoop contacts the saddles (the half round pieces), the lift will sandwhich the truck bed and frame between the TC and lift hoop. This replaces the tie-downs of the typical TC. If the sandwhich is too tight, you are correct it applies to much down force on the bolts/wings. Like the typical tie-downs, if too tight, it will put constant stress on the TC.

The photo below shows one of the saddle (the half round pieces). All four are identical. They are made up of a piece of 3/4" course threaded rod, with a 2" piece of strap welded to the rod. The strap about 1/8" thick, and bent on an oval shape. It is bolted to the frame with a bracket made of a loose fitting piece welded to a plate (about 1/8" thick). It bolts to the frame through the plate, with two 5/16" bolts per bracket. Each of the saddle rods use three 3/4" nuts, two at the bottom and one at the top. As you can see, there are many ways to fabricate the saddles.

To adjust my lift with the 1/2" to 3/4" pre-load, I raise the hoop to the height I want it. On my truck, the fuel tank is the first thing the hoop touches. I position the hoop about 1/2" below the fuel tank. With the saddles in place, and the 3/4" nuts loose, I let the Saddles drop in place on top of the hoop. I adjust the top 3/4" nut between 1/2" and 3/4" above the top of mount plate pipe. This allows the Saddles to drop down between 1/2" and 3/4", when I lower the hoop. I will tighten the other 3/4" nuts against the bottom of the mount plate pipe.

You have several mounting holes in mounting the jacks to the Stable Lift frame. I use the holes that leaves the least amount of the jack extended when in the up position.

I sure hope I typed this correctly. If you question something, let me know so I can clarify or correct.

Wayne
rfuerst911sc
Explorer
Apr 23, 2013
By lift saddles do you mean the half round pieces that mount under the truck that the cross tubes lock into in the up/travel position ? Unfortunately I did not get those in this deal so I will have to make these. Can you explain your " 3/4" pre-load ? I'm not following what you are saying. I'm assuming ( maybe incorrectly ) that you raise the lift and when the cross bars make contact with the saddles you stop the lift so it can't damage the camper by applying to much down force on the bolts/wings is that correct ?
Reddog1
Explorer II
Apr 23, 2013
One advantage to the Stable Lift is the fact it lifts the TC in such a way it can't strip the bolts out of the wood, like regular jacks can. It lifts the TC kinda like a forklift would.

My TC is the molded fiberglass. The "sandwhich" is; 1/4" Laun, 1-1/2" foam, and 1/8 to 3/16" fiberglass. Steel Stable Lift outside, and 1/4" aluminum inside.

You do not want to adjust the lift saddles so the lift is too tight in the tie-down mode. I think 3/4" pre-load is as much as you want. I use about 1/2".

If I can be of help. let me know.

Wayne

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