Swingout extensions?

[TxGearhead]

I have maybe a max of 3/4" clearance between my dually fenders and my front jacks. I have dually swingouts. I see where eTrailer has extensions to mount on the swingouts. Item # HJ54FR. It would position the jacks 5" farther out. I haven't done any measuring yet, but it will be real close having enough wire from the jack motor to the plug. Anyone using these extension? Any thoughts overall?

[JRscooby]

Grit dog wrote:

JRscooby wrote:
Don't have a dog in this, never loaded a camper in a pickup. (Is it similar to loading salt spreader in dump truck?)
My question is how much tolerance do you have between camper and inside of bed? Could using the extra space fender/jack put extra strain on mounts when bed hits camper?

???
It probably could if you bash the truck into the camper, lol.
If that’s the recommended procedure for loading a salt spreader….
But most people back under their truck campers very slowly and carefully.

StirCrazy wrote:


the tightest spot on mine is the tailgate sides, I have about 1" of clearance on each side. probably about 2" on each side between the wheel wells. and I don't let the camper hit the bed, I take it to about 1/4 to 1/2" from the board I put at the front then using the jacks I wiggle it against it while I lower it.

Steve

HMS Beagle wrote:

I have about 1" or a little less each side inside the tailgate, and about 3/4 or so each side between the jacks and dually fenders. It is a little fiddly, but I've done it dozens of times. I actually don't want too much clearance outside the fenders, because it is a pretty good guide to what's happening in the box, and much easier to see in the mirrors.

Someone will make a nice dual wireless camera setup to make it easy. Pretty cheap these days too. I should do it but not motivated enough I guess.

No, bashing bed/spreader is not normal for loading spreader, but does happen.
Looks like 2 out of 3 stand under what I'm saying. If you have a inch each side as tailgate or inner fenders, a extra 5 inches, or even 5 feet outside does no good. If you are not lined up at tailgate, or fender, where driver can't see can have camper/bed contact. And that contact, no matter how gentle will add strain to jack mounting points. Any extension to give more room between fender/jack will increase that strain.
OTOH, if you have the jack set to just miss fender as you pull straight out, back in just missing jack with outside of fender, you have room at tailgate and inner fender.

StirCrazy wrote:

TxGearhead wrote:
I have maybe a max of 3/4" clearance between my dually fenders and my front jacks. I have dually swingouts. I see where eTrailer has extensions to mount on the swingouts. Item # HJ54FR. It would position the jacks 5" farther out. I haven't done any measuring yet, but it will be real close having enough wire from the jack motor to the plug. Anyone using these extension? Any thoughts overall?

I wouldnt have any issue with the bracket its self, but if I did do that I would upgrade the bolts to grade 9 as it only uses three on each side. the higher shear strenght will give you a little extra peace of mind.

Steve

How strong is the area the jack mounts to camper? I would think that if snot hit the fan, would be better for bolt to break than pull mount out of camper.

[HMS_Beagle]

JRscooby wrote:
Don't have a dog in this, never loaded a camper in a pickup. (Is it similar to loading salt spreader in dump truck?)
My question is how much tolerance do you have between camper and inside of bed? Could using the extra space fender/jack put extra strain on mounts when bed hits camper?

I have about 1" or a little less each side inside the tailgate, and about 3/4 or so each side between the jacks and dually fenders. It is a little fiddly, but I've done it dozens of times. I actually don't want too much clearance outside the fenders, because it is a pretty good guide to what's happening in the box, and much easier to see in the mirrors.

Someone will make a nice dual wireless camera setup to make it easy. Pretty cheap these days too. I should do it but not motivated enough I guess.

[StirCrazy]

TxGearhead wrote:
I have maybe a max of 3/4" clearance between my dually fenders and my front jacks. I have dually swingouts. I see where eTrailer has extensions to mount on the swingouts. Item # HJ54FR. It would position the jacks 5" farther out. I haven't done any measuring yet, but it will be real close having enough wire from the jack motor to the plug. Anyone using these extension? Any thoughts overall?

I wouldnt have any issue with the bracket its self, but if I did do that I would upgrade the bolts to grade 9 as it only uses three on each side. the higher shear strenght will give you a little extra peace of mind.

Steve

[StirCrazy]

JRscooby wrote:
Don't have a dog in this, never loaded a camper in a pickup. (Is it similar to loading salt spreader in dump truck?)
My question is how much tolerance do you have between camper and inside of bed? Could using the extra space fender/jack put extra strain on mounts when bed hits camper?

the tightest spot on mine is the tailgate sides, I have about 1" of clearance on each side. probably about 2" on each side between the wheel wells. and I don't let the camper hit the bed, I take it to about 1/4 to 1/2" from the board I put at the front then using the jacks I wiggle it against it while I lower it.

Steve

[Grit_dog]

JRscooby wrote:
Don't have a dog in this, never loaded a camper in a pickup. (Is it similar to loading salt spreader in dump truck?)
My question is how much tolerance do you have between camper and inside of bed? Could using the extra space fender/jack put extra strain on mounts when bed hits camper?

???
It probably could if you bash the truck into the camper, lol.
If that’s the recommended procedure for loading a salt spreader….
But most people back under their truck campers very slowly and carefully.

[JRscooby]

TxGearhead wrote:

I'm concerned about cutting a tire on the sharp edge of the concrete block. I should rethink what I'm using to block under the jack foot.

For years I worked truck/trailer combination where could not see the eye for several feet when backing to hook up. Go home at night never knew if would need trailer or not next day. I set a 8 ft long 2X4 in gravel drive so could just see edge. Every time I parked I backed left drive tires along that line, stop with rear tire almost to end. Don't need trailer today? Unhook before move truck. End of day, back on same line until feel pintle touch eye. If need trailer, in position to hook without moving.
Now for you, loading camper. Start with timber (6X6,8X8) 8 ft long, cut a foot off it. Use short end under right front jack, set left jack near end of long piece. Next time load, back in with left rear tire alongside that timber, will be lined up to put camper between fenders.

TxGearhead wrote:

JRscooby wrote:
Don't have a dog in this, never loaded a camper in a pickup. (Is it similar to loading salt spreader in dump truck?)
My question is how much tolerance do you have between camper and inside of bed? Could using the extra space fender/jack put extra strain on mounts when bed hits camper?

I live on the Texas Gulf Coast. I know nothing about salt spreaders in dump trucks.
I have a couple inches total clearance between the bed fender wells and the camper.

Okay. You set up so you have 6 inches between legs. If you use any more than that 2 inches you have on the inside, the fender hits camper, what have you gained? OTOH, if you set the legs where you have the same 2 inches, you can watch bed go between legs, know will miss inside the bed.
Maybe it is a defect in my eyes, but I can't see what's happening inside the bed, but that post/bedside gap is right there in the mirror.

[TxGearhead]

JRscooby wrote:
Don't have a dog in this, never loaded a camper in a pickup. (Is it similar to loading salt spreader in dump truck?)
My question is how much tolerance do you have between camper and inside of bed? Could using the extra space fender/jack put extra strain on mounts when bed hits camper?

I live on the Texas Gulf Coast. I know nothing about salt spreaders in dump trucks.
I have a couple inches total clearance between the bed fender wells and the camper.

[TxGearhead]

mkirsch wrote:
Don't forget the clearance INSIDE the bed. 6" of clearance on the outside does you no good if you've only got 1/2" at the wheel wells.

My rear tires just squeak between the blocking that's under the jacks. It made me nervous at first but then I realized nothing was going to happen. When I hear the squeak, I know I'm on target.

I'm concerned about cutting a tire on the sharp edge of the concrete block. I should rethink what I'm using to block under the jack foot.

[mkirsch]

Don't forget the clearance INSIDE the bed. 6" of clearance on the outside does you no good if you've only got 1/2" at the wheel wells.

My rear tires just squeak between the blocking that's under the jacks. It made me nervous at first but then I realized nothing was going to happen. When I hear the squeak, I know I'm on target.

[JRscooby]

Don't have a dog in this, never loaded a camper in a pickup. (Is it similar to loading salt spreader in dump truck?)
My question is how much tolerance do you have between camper and inside of bed? Could using the extra space fender/jack put extra strain on mounts when bed hits camper?

[TxGearhead]

The strain with extensions was the first thing I thought of. My other issue is that my tires barely, just barely, clear whatever I have the jacks sitting on, usually a 2" concrete block.
If I could get just another 1" clearance, I would breathe easier.

[KD4UPL]

I had about 3/4" clearance each side on mine with brackets. It was enough for me for 7 years. I wouldn't want to put any more stress on those mounts. The attachment is weak anyway.

[deserteagle56]

The swingout extensions on my Bigfoot were not enough to clear the fenders on my dually so I made extensions out of 4" channel iron. That was 8 years ago and they've worked out perfectly.

[HMS_Beagle]

3/4" is plenty :). That is about what I have. On my previous truck and camper (F350Dually and 1996 BigFoot 25C9.4), the Happijack swingouts were insufficient for any clearance. I made extensions, by bolting a piece of 2 x 2 steel tube between the jack mount and the swingout bracket. My concern was that the further out the jacks are, the more torque is put on the jack mounts, trying to twist them off. They are not well designed to resist this kind of load. The stock swingout puts them out about 6" or so, adding 5" will nearly double that offset torque.

On my extensions, I welded 1" tube across the camper from one extension to the other, so that the offset torque was resolved between the two extensions and not transmitted to the camper jack mounts. It worked without problems for 15 years when I sold the camper to someone with singles, and he took it off.