Want to add more outlets for 110 and 12v. Will put up the make and model soon, but main question is as an electrical novice, how do I figure out if the current unit is working correctly? I have a cheap multi-tester from HFT.Or should I upgrade right now to a unit that will charge and maintain the house battery properly?When dry camping, will have a Honda 2000 generator for power as needed. Need to add a microwave to the interior, will try to find a unit that I can mount undercabinet.

Hi,Most undercabinet microwaves are huge, because they are designed to fit in the huge space above a home 30" range, therefore are 30" wide. Your best microwave for a small space might be a compact microwave from Costco or Best Buy, then build a cabinet for it. Some 3/4" white laminated wood from Home Depot or Lowes should work well for a project like this, and build a square box that has about 1/2" gap around the microwave for ventilation, then mount the box onto a cabinet already in the RV.As for installing more 120 volt receptacles - go ahead. They will not draw any current. it is the stuff you plug into those receptacles that draw current, and you are already limited to about 30 amps with the factory installed receptacles, that will not change no matter how many you add. While plugged into the generator, you are limited to about 16 amps at 120 volts. Your 12 volts is limited by the battery capacity. And that is a balance between battery size and weight. THe larger the battery, and the heavier it is, the more amp hours it will be able to hold. I have a pair of golf cart batteries - 67 pounds each that store 220 amp hours at 12 volts. That is more than enough for a long weekend, even without recharging. When you plug in the RV to the generator, first thing that comes on will be the converter/charger. It will probably run at maximum amperage for a few minutes to at least surface charge the battery, then slow down the charge rate after about 10 minutes. Running the microwave while the battery charger is putting out 45 amps might not work to well, and might overload the generator, as it is just a little larger than the input of a 1,000 watt output microwave.1,000 watt output microwave can have a 1,500 to 1,600 input rating. The 45 amp charger putting out 40 amps at 13.5 volts = 540 watts output, probably about 600 watts input. After the charger has run about 15 minutes, or the battery voltage was not to low when started, then you can run the microwave and not overload the 1600 watt generator. It has a 2000 watt surge rating for a maximum of only 30 minutes. Or look for a 800 watt microwave, with a 1,200 watt input rating.Be careful of coffee makers and toasters too. Sometimes they can use 1,000 to 1,200 watts, and might overload the generator if both running at the same time.Most RV's come with at least a 45 amp charger. That is plenty for most uses, and will recharge the battery in a couple of hours. It is best to split up your generator run time - if practical. I would run it about 1 hour in the morning and 1 near sunset if I had your set up, because the charger will put out the most amps the first hour, then taper to a slow charge after that. Best described as a frog jumping towards the end of a log. The charger can put in a lot of amps to a battery that is at 11.7 volts, then less amperage to a 12.5 volt battery, and takes a long time to add a few amp hours to a battery more than 80% full. Just like a frog jumping towards the end of a log, it can leap a long ways at first, but must take smaller jumps as it gets closer to the end, as it is not jumping off, just to the end.Good luck on your project.Fred.

More information is needed to answer your questions. The most important is what converter/charger do you have now, and how many of what kind of battery/ies?I too use a Honda 2000, with my microwave, 55 amp three stage charger and A/C. I can run the charger the same time as the microwave or A/C, unless the batteries are exceptionally low. I cannot run the microwave and A/C at the same time.On the microwave, years ago (about 2005), I purchased a counter microwave from Best Buy for $40, and it had a $40 rebate. So, it was free. I pulled the outer sheet metal off, about 8 screws, and fastened two pieces of aluminum angle to the outer sheet metal. One piece holds the microwave to an overhead cabinet, and the other holds to the closet.

Great idea on the microwave, I was thinking along a similar line, and I have a spot that will work like that.The unit is a "Progressive Dynamics" power converter 324L25 amp output, 5 amp charge3 breakers, 15 and a joined 30/20.Model # stamped on the tag is 722Q08RMTFuse panel is next to the converter panel, and the charger panel is above that. Currently, I can only find one 110 outlet.I believe the refrig is a 2-way, and the hot-water tank appears to be gas only. I will try to get a pic up later, putting away the tools from the tiedown install now.Raining buckets around here.

When I bought it, the prior owner didn't think the charger/inverter was working. I cleaned the connections to the battery, made sure the wires were tightly fastened, and plugged the camper in. I put the breakers on, and the charge light came on and the battery is charging. Camper lights seem to be brighter also. I had a HFT multi tester, but can't remember where I put it. As soon as I do, I will check the output.

Start with a battery load test, free at a auto store.IF the batteries are good: With gen off, solar off and no shore power put a "significant" load on the inverter. "Significant" is dependent on the inverter size. I could put a ceramic heater on mine. Wait about 10 minutes then turn off the inverter, connect a voltmeter to the battery and turn on shore power and monitor the voltage as the battery should now be charging. The battery voltage should rise to about 14.4V+ and eventually taper to 13.6V. This would be a very basic test of your inverter/converter.

Testing inverter/converter | Good Sam Community

RideSlow
Explorer
May 20, 2014
PM sent
sleepy
Explorer
May 15, 2014
RideSlow wrote:
Boatycall wrote:
RideSlow wrote:
Want to add more outlets for 110 and 12v. Will put up the make and model soon, but main question is as an electrical novice, how do I figure out if the current unit is working correctly?

Depending on where you're at here in the PNW, you could bring it by and I'll do a check-over on it. Electrical is my thing....

Auburn. Will be looking you up. Thanks.

YOU WILL ENJOY YOUR VISIT... and you'lll have the best advice that you can get anywhere

Sleepy
RideSlow
Explorer
May 15, 2014
CA Traveler wrote:
Start with a battery load test, free at a auto store.

IF the batteries are good: With gen off, solar off and no shore power put a "significant" load on the inverter. "Significant" is dependent on the inverter size. I could put a ceramic heater on mine. Wait about 10 minutes then turn off the inverter, connect a voltmeter to the battery and turn on shore power and monitor the voltage as the battery should now be charging. The battery voltage should rise to about 14.4V+ and eventually taper to 13.6V.

This would be a very basic test of your inverter/converter.

Battery is a 7 yr old marine unit. Probably on its last season.
RideSlow
Explorer
May 15, 2014
trail-explorer wrote:
Technique to test it depends on what you have, is it an inverter or a converter?

Inverter makes AC from DC batteries
Converter charges batteries from AC power.

Converter
RideSlow
Explorer
May 15, 2014
Boatycall wrote:
RideSlow wrote:
Want to add more outlets for 110 and 12v. Will put up the make and model soon, but main question is as an electrical novice, how do I figure out if the current unit is working correctly?

Depending on where you're at here in the PNW, you could bring it by and I'll do a check-over on it. Electrical is my thing....

Auburn. Will be looking you up. Thanks.
bigfootford
Nomad II
May 14, 2014
Don't forget to put the fridge on propane. If you leave it on auto it will switch to AC when the genny starts... That is 300+watts right there.

Jim
trail-explorer
Explorer
May 14, 2014
Technique to test it depends on what you have, is it an inverter or a converter?

Inverter makes AC from DC batteries
Converter charges batteries from AC power.
Boatycall
Explorer
May 14, 2014
RideSlow wrote:
Want to add more outlets for 110 and 12v. Will put up the make and model soon, but main question is as an electrical novice, how do I figure out if the current unit is working correctly?

Depending on where you're at here in the PNW, you could bring it by and I'll do a check-over on it. Electrical is my thing....
sleepy
Explorer
May 14, 2014
RideSlow wrote:
Want to add more outlets for 110 and 12v. Will put up the make and model soon, but main question is as an electrical novice, how do I figure out if the current unit is working correctly? I have a cheap multi-tester from HFT.

Or should I upgrade right now to a unit that will charge and maintain the house battery properly?

When dry camping, will have a Honda 2000 generator for power as needed. Need to add a microwave to the interior, will try to find a unit that I can mount undercabinet.

When I read your declaration thet I "bolded" above I would recommend that you get an expert to hold your hand.

There is a high risk for your safety and health if you don't understand what you are doing and have training and practical experience.

Most of ther time you'll get good advice on forums... but you have to understand who actually knows what they suggest... anyone can post without accountability

Good luck...

Sleepy
CA_Traveler
Explorer III
May 14, 2014
Start with a battery load test, free at a auto store.

IF the batteries are good: With gen off, solar off and no shore power put a "significant" load on the inverter. "Significant" is dependent on the inverter size. I could put a ceramic heater on mine. Wait about 10 minutes then turn off the inverter, connect a voltmeter to the battery and turn on shore power and monitor the voltage as the battery should now be charging. The battery voltage should rise to about 14.4V+ and eventually taper to 13.6V.

This would be a very basic test of your inverter/converter.