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Thoughts on my Weigth Scale Results

cj_rezz
Explorer
Explorer
Hi All,

First off, if the picture isn't displaying (it works when I preview my post), it can also be viewed here: Link

I'm looking for your thoughts on my first before and after weigh scale printouts since installing my weight distribution hitch.

My hitch is a Husky Centreline TS 600-800lb.

I set up my weight distribution hitch myself following the manual exactly. I measured my front and rear wheel well heights before hooking up and after hooking up and the rear isn't sagging anymore than the front. The front of the trailer sits about 1-3/4" higher than the rear of the trailer. I would prefer it to sit slightly lower but I would have to buy a new shank with more drop.

However, according to these printouts, I've only added 22lbs to the front axle. I would be scared to try and increase the weight distribution on my hitch because it already seems like the back end of the truck is going to leave the ground when I jack the trailer tongue jack up enough to get the weight distribution bars connected.

My main questions are:
1. What do you think of the before and after printouts?
2. Should I have more weight put to the front axle and how do I go about doing this if it already feels like my truck's rear wheels are going to leave the ground when I jack the truck up to the point I can get the weight distribution bars in place?
3. Is it okay that the front of my trailer sits about 1-3/4" higher than the rear of my trailer? So far it has towed great but I haven't encountered any crazy cross winds that would force it to sway.

2010 Nissan Armada Platinum -Bilstein (24-197649) 46mm Shocks, Moog 81085 Rear Coils, R1 Concepts Rotors, Prodigy P3, Nokian Rotiva AT Plus LT275/60R20, Husky Center Line TS 32217 WD Hitch w/ Integrated Sway Control
2006 Jayco Jay Feather EXP 23B
6 REPLIES 6

Wankel7
Explorer
Explorer
Your description of parallel to the ground...would mean the trailer is indeed level.

Also the manual states the trailer needs to be level. And in speaking with Lisa at Husky....the folks that made the Centerline...she also stated it was important the trailer be level...or parallel with the ground....or measures the same distance to the ground from each corner...what ever floats your trailer ๐Ÿ˜›

hawkeye-08
Explorer III
Explorer III
Wankel7 wrote:
You need to weigh 3 times. You need to weigh the TV only, TV & trailer without bars, and TV & trailer with bars engaged.

It looks like you skipped without bars. Without doing that you actually do not know your tongue weight.

Additionally, you really have no idea what is being added back to the front axle because you didn't weigh with the bars not engaged.

I have the Centerline TS also with the same bars.

I screwed up the install due to the trailer not being dead level. It needs to be level. Find the flatest piece of pavement you can. Use a long level and make sure it is level. Then measure each corner to the ground to confirm it. Don't use the tongue to obtain a level trailer. It might not be level...mine wasn't welded on level.

If this means you need a new shank....you need a new shank.

So, my advice is to redo the setup paying close attention to having the trailer level.

Then hit the scales again weighing 3 times.


I think you have the right idea, but use words that can confuse folks. Your trailer does not have to be level, it needs to be parallel to the flat ground when setup. I don't use a level to setup my trailer WDH, I use a tape measure and measure the frame distance to ground front and back, I try for even or slightly nose down.

Level makes a difference when parked to run refrigerator and sleep comfortable.

Wankel7
Explorer
Explorer
You need to weigh 3 times. You need to weigh the TV only, TV & trailer without bars, and TV & trailer with bars engaged.

It looks like you skipped without bars. Without doing that you actually do not know your tongue weight.

Additionally, you really have no idea what is being added back to the front axle because you didn't weigh with the bars not engaged.

I have the Centerline TS also with the same bars.

I screwed up the install due to the trailer not being dead level. It needs to be level. Find the flatest piece of pavement you can. Use a long level and make sure it is level. Then measure each corner to the ground to confirm it. Don't use the tongue to obtain a level trailer. It might not be level...mine wasn't welded on level.

If this means you need a new shank....you need a new shank.

So, my advice is to redo the setup paying close attention to having the trailer level.

Then hit the scales again weighing 3 times.

PUCampin
Explorer
Explorer
Actually these numbers look good. The tongue weight is with the bars hooked up, so actual tongue weight will be more, probably around 12 percent, which is fine. We also know the weight distribution is maybe even too tight. The OP is actually ADDING 22lbs to the front axle vs the truck by itself. The manufacture recommendation is to return close to the original front axle weight. Weight is removed when the trailer is hooked up, the weight distribution puts some of that weight back. In this case it is all put back and then some!
2007 Expedition EL 4x4 Tow pkg
1981 Palomino Pony, the PopUp = PUCampin! (Sold)
2006 Pioneer 180CK = (No more PUcampin!):B

Me:B DW:) and the 3 in 3 :E
DD:B 2006, DS ๐Ÿ˜› 2007, DD :C 2008

keymastr
Explorer
Explorer
Tongue weight is a bit low. I was not able to see the weights themselves, slips were too hard to read. Did you make 3 passes? Need to see truck by itself, truck and trailer with no bars hooked up, and truck and trailer with bars hooked up to be able to say what weight you have distributed and actual tongue weight. Weights for all axles if possible.

Nose high is not great. A small amount can be tolerated but Slightly nose down is better than nose up. If it were me I would get it lower.

bill-e
Explorer
Explorer
The picture isn't displaying. What is your tongue weight vs trailer weight? Should be 10-15 percent.
Thanks,
Bill


'15 Keystone Cougar 26RBI and '15 RAM 1500 Ecodiesel