TECMike wrote:
Would appreciate hearing from folks who have insulated the tanks and bottom of their three season trailers, thus turning it into a four season trailer that can be used in freezing weather.
Thanks in advance!
Mike
Hi Mike,
We have winter camped a good amount but not in a full time capacity. Our camper does have enclosed tanks and dump valves, but still it is not 4 season rated. I had to do other upgrades to make it better and tolerable.
A few things to help add to what has not yet been mentioned, some ways on how to deal with them, and what can happen if you don't.
Internal moisture. This is a big deal if you do not deal with it.
Here are the highlights, can expand more if wanted
1. Any time the heat runs in the camper, there can be a humidity issue with people living inside such a small space. Two people sleeping and breathing overnight adds a good deal of moisture inside the camper.
2. Cooking and using the gas stove top adds moisture in the camper. As well as washing dishes.
3. Taking showers adds a lot of moisture.
4.If you ever winter camped in a tent, you learned you have to vent the tent or else you will wake up soaking wet or worse, snow frozen inside from your own breath freezing. The key point is, vent. This is one way to help the situation.
5. When cooking, crack a window open next to the stove. Let the moisture get out.
6. When showering, crack the vent open a good amount, let the excess moisture get out.
7. Sleeping, crack the roof vent open a good 1" at the opposite end of the camper to let the night moisture get out. All night long. Yes, heat goes out with it too, but the moisture is dying to get out, so let it go.
8. Those 3 above help but they are not a total cure. Running a large enough dehumidifier really helps and then you can close the roof vent at night, but still vent when showering and cooking.
8A. Get a humidity meter so you can track it.
9. Windows, if you do not have dual pane windows, consider putting the Frost King shrink wrap on them. I stick it to the aluminum strip/frame around the window. It does really help, the windows do not sweat, and it saves heat. The aluminum strip I stick it too in the morning does sweat some, I wipe it up with a dry wash cloth.
10. Consider adding attic vents. 3 or more pending the length of the camper. These make a big difference. Moisture seeks lower moisture areas naturally. The moisture wants to get out of the camper to the outside lower humidity. Moisture seeps up into your attic through all the tiny holes in the ceiling system. Ac ducts, shower steam domes, radios speakers, etc. and the moisture stays up there. The rubber/TPO/PVC roof will not let it get out. Left unchecked long enough, mold in the attic starts growing. These vents should be added even if you have the dehumidifier. I have restored campers doing a re-roof where folks never vented the camper ever when the heat ran and the windows sweat. This is early spring and later fall and not in the winter. Mold does grow in the attic. These attic vents also help in the summer to let the attic heat out. I have added many to the campers I have restored. They do work. Every camper should have them, even 3 season campers.
11. If you do not deal with the moisture, your walls will sweat.
Hope this helps and glad to expand on it more if needed.
John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.
