ScottG wrote:
Gdetrailer wrote:
ScottG wrote:
A 30' TT will likely have too much hitch weight for your truck. So not only will it overload the hitch it will cause a nose high condition for the truck. Using a WDH doesn't "cover up" handling issues, it prevents them because it transfers the hitch weight forward on the truck. So all that weight is basically sitting in the back of the bed instead of hanging off the back of the bumper where it has far more leverage over the TV. You don't want to find out the hard way that your truck has sway, like coming down a mountain pass.
ScottG, did you read what the OP wrote?
"So I'm looking to downsize to an under 30' TT. I'd prefer 26' or less,"
Not to mention the unit the OP mentioned IS less than 30FT.
And whether YOU want to believe it or not, WD was ORIGINALLY AND SOLELY DESIGNED to allow smaller lighter vehicles to tow MUCH larger HEAVIER trailers which would have NORMALLY OVERLOADED the REAR AXLE of said vehicle.
The OPs F250 IS very capable of towing in excess of 800 lbs of tongue weight WITHOUT the use of WD. The OP HAS 2.5" hitch receiver which is even more capable than my 2" hitch receiver..
To me the OP HAS a good stable towing platform to work with and it will take a considerable amount of weight to overload the rear axle. Heck after all they were using it to tow a 40FT 5vr which SHOULD TELL YOU SOMETHING.
My suggestion stands that as long as the OP stays with in the capacity of the hitch receiver they may want to try a test tow WITHOUT WD to see how the truck rides and handles. Most likely the OP will find just like I did that there ARE cases where WD contributes NOTHING to the mix other than emptying the wallet..
If a F250 is not able to handle 6K of trailer load without WD then we have a severe problem..
By the way, I have towed my 18ft flatbed trailer without WD with 6K of load plus the empty weight of 2.4K for a total of 8.4K and had no ride or handling issues... But keep in mind that my 2013 F250 does have 3400 lb cargo rating :B
As a matter of fact I did read the OP's post and I stand by my comments. A 26" trailer could easily have more than an 800# tongue weight - Mine has 1000#.
As far as the all caps junk about WDH hitch being designed for... These are modern times - not the 60's. The dynamics of RV towing have drastically changed the designs and function of WDH's. Compared to those days, a modern 29" TT is huge.
As to what YOU"VE done? Well just because someone does something and gets away with it doesn't mean it a good idea or support a position of doing something reckless as a matter of policy.
And overloading and axle has nothing to do with sway.
A WDH makes a TT handle better at speed and most importantly, is far more likely to keep the trailer under control in an emergency maneuver.
WD DOES NOT CONTROL ANYTHING during an emergency maneuver, PERIOD.
Weight distribution is all about pushing weight back onto the front axle away from the rear axle.
For your information pickup trucks already have MORE weight on the front axle than they do on the rear axle.
In the case of the OPs situation he has even MORE weight on the front axle since it is a DIESEL.
We are not in the '80 or '90s and the vehicle manufactures HAVE changed their recommendations from 100% restoration of the front axle weight to 50% or even less...
With the vehicle the OP has tongue weight of 800 or even 1000 lbs is not even a load..
Put it this way, if a 3/4 ton pickup can not handle 1000 lbs on the hitch then how do you explain the fact that he was able to tow a 40' 5vr which most likely had a pin weight in excess of 2000 lbs?
Using your theory he should not been able to do that..
Using your theory I should not be able to put 2000 lbs plus load in the back of my truck with putting some sort of helper axle and wheels to drag behind my axle..
A PROPERLY LOADED AND BALANCED bumper pull trailer WILL NOT SWAY. That is where you SHOULD BE STARTING AT.
So far according to you I should be dead.
Far from the truth.
Several times on trips I have had to make QUICK EMERGENCY MANEUVERS involving high way speeds of 70 MPH and AVOIDING DEER running in front of me.. According to YOU both times my rig should have never survived.. But it did.
Neither times did I ever have any feeling of losing control even after SWERVING and braking heavily. Vehicle and trailer stayed right in line and never offered to swing or sway out of control..
What are YOU going to do when your WD BREAKS during an emergency maneuver?
I INTENTIONALLY buy and drive trucks which ARE heavier, have heavier suspension than what I really need... The control of having a bigger truck IS NIGHT AND DAY and I am not depending on some flimsy band aid to cover up the weak link of too little vehicle for the trailer..
First rule is to BUY THE PROPER VEHICLE FOR THE LOAD.
Second rule is to PROPERLY BALANCE the trailer.
THIRD rule is to reread the first rule..
Forth rule is once you have got the first three rules right then apply WD and or anti-sway devices.
Fifth rule is to never, ever bet you life on WD or anti-sway devices to make up for ignoring the first three rules since they can break when you need them the most.
