Tire Talk...

CND SuperCrew wrote:
Hankook Hankook ATM:

I ran a set of those on my Tahoe, they wore out in 40k miles. Quiet, no problems with traction on wet roads or in dirt, not bad in the few inches of snow we got while I had them, I just wasn't impressed with how long they lasted.

It's an old standby, but when my current tires wear out I'll be going back to the 10 ply BFG AT. They last 60k miles for me, have good traction in the conditions we have here (cascade foothills) and don't get holes every other month like the poor Les Schwab XTX tires I have now - 4 flats from rocks in my gravel driveway in 6 months!

A Tundra is a half ton and most likely Toyota supplied it from the
factory with 'P' class (passenger car) tires, which RMA (Rubber
Manufacture Association) recommends de-rating a min of 9%. OEM's have
already done that with their factory equipment

By going to a higher class tire and on top of that, a higher load rating...you
need to make sure the wheels are likewise rated for the higher ratings

All wheels sold for public roads in the USA has a DOT requirement to
have the wheel spec stamped, screened, etc on it somewhere

If you can't find it anywhere on the outside, then it is hidden inside
the tire cavity

Note that LT tires require more PSI for the same load carry capacity
of a 'P' class tire. Just in the way they are designed. This 'might'
create a too light of steering handling and is that the tire has
ballooned because not enough weight is on it to flat spot more of the
tread onto the pavement

Stiffer and stronger sidewalls (everything) will normally lessen the
slip angle and that in addition to the above PSI issue might have
it even more squirrely, but sounds like the OP has or will have enough
weight to get the fill tread onto the pavement

Most 'P' class wheels has a max PSI of 50 to 60 and an E class tire
lists an 80PSI required for max carry capacity. Typical failure mode
with too much PSI on a wheel will have a crack develop radially
on the rim. Many times not visible but will leak

I only have LT tires on any of my trucks, including family members pickups/SUVs

Here is a link on this topic and germain to the discussion

New LT tires on Expedition

BenK wrote:

It is NOT just weight carry rating, but the rest of a tire/wheel.
Design, manufacturing, materials, etc. There are major similarities
and differences between 'P' class and 'LT' class tires, wheels and
even valve stems.


Here is a picture of the alloy wheels on my 1980 Silverado C10.














The wheel ratings are mandated by DOT to be on all wheels sold for
road use (not off road). Too many has the info on the rim covered by
the tire and have to remove the tire to see it

While working my way through college...I've personally eyeballed and
replaced a steel wheel that had LT tires and the PSI was over the
wheel rating. The rim cracked for about 4 inches and rusty. Telling
that it was cracking for a while till it finally cracked clean
through at that spot.

The posts only touch on tire technology and if you wish to really learn
get some books and read up.

This link is to one of the best tire/wheel/suspension info sites I've
found to date
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/Tires.shtml

'P' class (aka...passenger car tire) is what is found on most 7.2K GVWR
pickups (aka...half ton), SUVs, CUVs and

CARS

.

'LT' class (aka...light truck tire) is what is found on most +8.6K GVWR
pickups, SUVs and CUVs.

If you take the exact same brand, model and size tire of 'P' class
and 'LT' class and weigh them. The 'LT' class tire will weigh more
and will also cost more.

They both may have the same/similar weight carry rating, but as noted
before, 'P' class tires used on trucks must have their sidewall rating
reduced by a min of 9%

Over at my Suburban forum a guy in Finland had his wife take their
8.6K GVWR Suburban in for new tires. The dealer put on 'P' class.

After we explained that over there, they actually have better enforcement
of the equipment and component laws (same over here, but we don't
enforce).

That dealer took them back and mounted 'LT' class tires at no additional
cost.

Dealer was facing: suspension or revoke of his license, fines and even
jail time. The driver was facing impound of the vehicle spot on and
not allowed to proceed on public roads...even if the LEO stop was for
something other than tires.

Tystevens wrote:

brulaz wrote:
Michelin LTX MS/2, LT245/75R17E at 50psi on Ford stock alloys.
All-Seasons, not All-Terrain.
Like them so far. Seem to be wearing well.

Not to hijack the thread, but I'm thinking about going with the M/S2's on my F150 in a LT - E rating. Has the ride changed at all? How do you like the handling and such?

The ride and handling is definitely "crisper" than the P rated Pirellis. I do like it, but you can hear and feel the cracks in the road more. There is zero "squirm" when loaded with the trailer.

I got new 17" wheels so the Michelin's have more sidewall which may make them less stiff than the same 18" tire.

(Am also told they handle well in the snow)

I have used both the Hankook ATM and the Cooper AT3. You really can't go wrong with either. If I remember correctly, and I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, the Hankook is made in Korea and Cooper USA made. Like the looks of the Cooper but would give a slight advantage to the Hankook in the ice and deep snow. I would say buy what is cheaper.

brulaz wrote:
Michelin LTX MS/2, LT245/75R17E at 50psi on Ford stock alloys.
All-Seasons, not All-Terrain.
Like them so far. Seem to be wearing well.

Not to hijack the thread, but I'm thinking about going with the M/S2's on my F150 in a LT - E rating. Has the ride changed at all? How do you like the handling and such?

Spey Rod wrote:
Since I am running right up against my GVWR on the truck I have decided to upgrade to 10 ply tires. My choices at this point are Cooper ST Maxx and AT3 and the Nokian Rotiiva AT. I am looking for size LT275/65R18.

If you have any experience with 10 ply tires feel free to provide input good bad or indifferent.

Thanks!

I've already stated the Hankook, my reason for tire selection comes down to a few items:
1 tread design, I wont spend extra $$ on winter tires, cant afford it. So the Hankook for me has extra siping when compared to the Coopers.
2 Tread block design, since we tow a lot, I like the semi continuous center lug that encompasses the tire, that leads to less rolling resistance on a AT tire design.
That being said my 2nd choice would be the Toyo Open Country II, again for the reasons I stated. They also come in a load C which is a good compromise between the P-metric and load E. Putting load E on my truck gives me no added benefit as we dont have a TT or load up to my max. It would probably cost me more $$ in fuel just to run the added weight of the 10 ply & rolling resistance.
In the end I will probably go Toyo in load C which also has 80k km warranty here, which no other manufacture will do on a LT tire.

Spey Rod wrote:
Since I am running right up against my GVWR on the truck I have decided to upgrade to 10 ply tires. My choices at this point are Cooper ST Maxx and AT3 and the Nokian Rotiiva AT. I am looking for size LT275/65R18.

If you have any experience with 10 ply tires feel free to provide input good bad or indifferent.

Thanks!

I upgraded to the same size (275/65/18) on our '10 Silverado 1500 CCSB 4x4 with the A/T3's LR C, and was very happy with them! I was also right at the gvwr, maybe a little over, and the C's were night & day different from the stock P rated tires! Never wished I had the LR E's.

While I only had them for 11k miles, they did great in snow, ice (for what a tire can that isn't studded!), rain, and dry roads! I am seriously considering them for our new '13-2500HD, though I may wait a little until the need for tires is closer (only about 7k mi so far on the new beast!). I am afraid to find out how much the stock size replacements will be, (just released from Cooper!) 265/60/20 LR E.

Turbo Diesel Dude wrote:
I went with the Falken Rocky Mountains AT tire on my 4X4 2013 F150 EcoBoost Load range E (18 incher) and they are quiet, pull good so far. Doesn't snow too often in Ocala, Florida as far as I can tell. LOL

I also run Falken LT275-65-18E on the rear.
I run them 60 lbs with no problem.A lot more stable with the camper
Sorry about the pics-photobucket being bad!!!

Run the Goodyear Adventure AT's....love them. A huge improvement over the Goodyear SRA's that came on the truck. Run them at 50 lbs, removes all the flex in the sidewalls. Could run them higher but haven't found the need to do that. Also, at least from what I could see, most Load E tires don't come with a tread wear warrenty and the Goodyears do (60000 miles).

I air them down to 40lbs when not towing.

I have the ATM in that size on my 2500HD. I like the tire.