Tires & wheels for towing
I have a 2016 Ram 2500 with 275/70/18 tires mounted on factory 8" wide wheels....I hate the wheels. I've been looking at several aftermarket wheels that I would like, but they are all 18x9". I have...
Forum Discussion
While you all are on this 'ratings' topic...will toss in the TV's ratings is no different...
Either believe in the OEM's ratings of whatever or not and note that all specifications are not a stand alone spec, but in concert with other components connected/affected/effected by it...
Over loading a tire or wheel will NOT have it instantly fail...but it will sooner than if below or at the OEM's ratings...
What is meant by "can do it" and what is missed is that they who over load are into the OEM's design margin (AKA consuming that safety margin)
EVERY aspect of its specification is part of the ratings...rim bead-to-bead width, safety bead shape, production method (cast, forged, rolled, welded, riveted, etc), off-set, hub or lug concentric method, tapered/shoulder/etc lug landing, and a host of other attributes (specification details)
As for otrfun's good mention of the wheels offset...the wheel OEM's rating is for that wheel at whatever offset it is sold as...what matters is the TV's suspension's wheel offset specification it is designed for.
My Alcoa 10x16 forged alloy wheels have an offset of +76.2mm (stock is +38.1mm) and pushes my track to +10.5 inches or so over stock track. Like it that way and know the suspension wasn't designed for, but the moment calculations by buddy ME is okay for how I use my Suburban...PS...us old guys knew positive offset as negative offset back in the day when the OEMs used that metric...
That wider track plays well for me on pavement...off road set are on OEM steel wheels with LT255/85R16E's...
Toyo M/T LT255/85R16
Noodling these as my next set...current Falken's were cut up bad and one is too close to the edge by the sidewall to my liking
Either believe in the OEM's ratings of whatever or not and note that all specifications are not a stand alone spec, but in concert with other components connected/affected/effected by it...
Over loading a tire or wheel will NOT have it instantly fail...but it will sooner than if below or at the OEM's ratings...
What is meant by "can do it" and what is missed is that they who over load are into the OEM's design margin (AKA consuming that safety margin)
EVERY aspect of its specification is part of the ratings...rim bead-to-bead width, safety bead shape, production method (cast, forged, rolled, welded, riveted, etc), off-set, hub or lug concentric method, tapered/shoulder/etc lug landing, and a host of other attributes (specification details)
As for otrfun's good mention of the wheels offset...the wheel OEM's rating is for that wheel at whatever offset it is sold as...what matters is the TV's suspension's wheel offset specification it is designed for.
My Alcoa 10x16 forged alloy wheels have an offset of +76.2mm (stock is +38.1mm) and pushes my track to +10.5 inches or so over stock track. Like it that way and know the suspension wasn't designed for, but the moment calculations by buddy ME is okay for how I use my Suburban...PS...us old guys knew positive offset as negative offset back in the day when the OEMs used that metric...
That wider track plays well for me on pavement...off road set are on OEM steel wheels with LT255/85R16E's...
Toyo M/T LT255/85R16
Noodling these as my next set...current Falken's were cut up bad and one is too close to the edge by the sidewall to my liking
