I'm trying out TorkLift's Power Armor Max box on my Avion C-11 trailer. This large box will allow the addition of up to 5 more batteries. I doubt that I will use all of them because I would end up with a total of 7 batteries and I don't even use the full capacity of the two I currently have. This box is well built and I may put two batteries in it and then use the remaining space for storage. Exra storage is the one area that I am shy of.
Pictures of Power Armor max on front of trailer.
Inside of Power Armor Max box. As you can see, it is well built and has adjustable panels to seperate the batteries. So far I really like it. If I had one option that I would like to see, it would be a thin plastic container(type of plastic used in battery cases), maybe .065 thick with at least a .065 taper on all four sides to allow them to be stacked. These wouldn't support the batteries, but would keep them for leaking onto the aluminum. Battery acid and aluminum don't mix too well. These thin platic bins (containers) could also be used for storage and would keep things from rattling around. The Power Armor Max also comes with a lock and straps to secure the batteries. For those who like to use the Solar Panels on your RV, this box is a great option. For most trailers, the tongue is where the box should be mounted because it is usually one of the stronger parts of the trailer and it increases tongue weight which rarely will give you any issues. Too light of tongue weight can be deadly.
If I left the TorkLift Power Armor Max on the front rack of the trailer, then I couldn't put an extra quad up there. That really isn't an option, so I need to make a mount that goes above the LP tanks far enough that I can put aluminum 40# tanks on the trailer and still have room for the battery/storage box.
Pictures of mount for Power Armor Max box.
As you can see, the mount uses seamless receiver tubing so that the entire mount is easily removable with a couple of pins or just the top section with one pin. I weld a nut onto the receiver tubes so that a bolt can be tightened and eliminated any "wiggle" in the receiver tubes.
I plan on mounting a solar panel above the battery box so I can also use the battery box mount as the solar panel mount. More pictures to come as I finish the battery box mount.
Pictures of Power Armor max on front of trailer.
Inside of Power Armor Max box. As you can see, it is well built and has adjustable panels to seperate the batteries. So far I really like it. If I had one option that I would like to see, it would be a thin plastic container(type of plastic used in battery cases), maybe .065 thick with at least a .065 taper on all four sides to allow them to be stacked. These wouldn't support the batteries, but would keep them for leaking onto the aluminum. Battery acid and aluminum don't mix too well. These thin platic bins (containers) could also be used for storage and would keep things from rattling around. The Power Armor Max also comes with a lock and straps to secure the batteries. For those who like to use the Solar Panels on your RV, this box is a great option. For most trailers, the tongue is where the box should be mounted because it is usually one of the stronger parts of the trailer and it increases tongue weight which rarely will give you any issues. Too light of tongue weight can be deadly.
If I left the TorkLift Power Armor Max on the front rack of the trailer, then I couldn't put an extra quad up there. That really isn't an option, so I need to make a mount that goes above the LP tanks far enough that I can put aluminum 40# tanks on the trailer and still have room for the battery/storage box.
Pictures of mount for Power Armor Max box.
As you can see, the mount uses seamless receiver tubing so that the entire mount is easily removable with a couple of pins or just the top section with one pin. I weld a nut onto the receiver tubes so that a bolt can be tightened and eliminated any "wiggle" in the receiver tubes.
I plan on mounting a solar panel above the battery box so I can also use the battery box mount as the solar panel mount. More pictures to come as I finish the battery box mount.
The mount didn't turn out too bad. I wanted it solid, yet I wanted to be able to adjust the height with just one pin. I also wanted the mount built so I could add a solar panel above it and be able to adjust the angle of the solar panel, or tilt it out of the way. If I wanted to remove the extra batteries, I wanted to be able to use the mount for something else.
I'm still trying to finish my tongue mount. I'm making it adjustable up and down to clear the LP tanks from 20# steel tanks to 40# aluminum tanks. Currently I have 30# steel tanks, but I'm going to go to 40# aluminum tanks when I get the chance.
There are still a lot of holes to drill and some nuts to weld on to "lock" the tubes together. I will use 1/2" long hitch locks to lock everything down. I just need to find the Reese locks with the same keys. The last thing I need are more keys. LOL
There are still a lot of holes to drill and some nuts to weld on to "lock" the tubes together. I will use 1/2" long hitch locks to lock everything down. I just need to find the Reese locks with the same keys. The last thing I need are more keys. LOL
