My 2009 GMG Yukon XL Denali (with factory tow package) is rated for 7900 lbs.If I adhere to weight restrictions and weight distribution upgrades, can I safely tow a trailer with a 7,038 lbs. dry weight? Thanks

Safely, yes. Provided your Yukon is well maintained, has good tires and brakes, the trailer is well maintained, has good tires and brakes, the WD system is properly setup and rated to support the actual weight of the trailer.It will not, however, be within the weight ratings of the Yukon if that is important to you. You will exceed one or more of the ratings of the Yukon, be that axle, GVWR, GCWR or receiver hitch rating.Dry weight means empty trailer, nothing in it or on it. That means no propane or batteries, no water, nothing. Possibly not even an air conditioner or other optional equipment. Time all is said and done you will end up adding at least 1000-1500lbs to the weight of the trailer by the time you fill everything up and pack for camping.Most importantly you will probably not be happy with the performance and handling. It will be slow and sluggish compared to the tow vehicle by itself.

OK you have 860 lbs total available. Now add,,,,,Weight dist Hitch*********************100 lbs2 tanks and propane********************80 lbsa group 27 battery*********************40 lbsyou now have 640 left, on tow capacity and have added no food, clothing, lawn chairs, nothing, not even enough water to flush the toilet. Light packers tend to have close to 1000 lbs in a trailer, most end up higher, a few very cautious ones get by with less. And dont even begin to consider kids and their friends stuff. Also check your cargo capacity on the Yukon, at an 8000 lb trailer, you will be around 1200 pounds on the hitch, which counts against your payload, also anyone else travelling with you and all of the cargo in the back count toward that number, is it ok there? Happy motorin

You may be within total trailer weight but I don't think you'll be within the Yukon's payload max. Who and what will you be carrying in the Yukon?13 to 15% tongue weight is a good thing for sway prevention.

Don't look at dry weight as it is meaningless. Look at max trailer weight that falls within your capabilities. Work backwards from there figuring payload capacity minus whatever and whoever will be in the vehicle while traveling minus 15% of the max trailer weight on the tongue. Then subtract the 80 pounds for propane and 40 pounds for a battery and roughly 100 pounds for the hitch. You will come up with a very negative number if you start out with a 7900 pound max weight trailer. Work the numbers to find what weight trailer you can really tow.

To bullet comments:1. Do no use dry weight of trailer to determine towing limits. Dry weight does not include water, propane, all the stuff you add in, etc. In some cases it doesn't even include the AC unit, etc. For an unknown trailer, always use the GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating) to pair it with your tow vehicle. With an unknown tow vehicle, always use the actual loaded weight of your trailer (if owned) or GVWR (if not purchased yet).2. Along with the towing capacity of the vehicle, you will most likely be limited by the payload (or CCC or cargo capacity) of the tow vehicle. The payload is often the limiting factor - especially for families.3. For many RVers, the preference is to stay at or below 15 percent of each the tow capacity AND payload. This provides a"cushion" for performance so the tow vehicle is not always maxed out on every trip. Some RVers will go all the way to the limits and be happy. It is all about your own comfort level, your vehicle and trailer's drivability, and the roads you travel. If you only drive flat roads or short distances, your experience at the limits will be different than if you drive in mountains or long distances. Your own familiarity with towing will have a bearing on this.Calculations to do:10-15 percent of trailer's GVWR = tongue weightTrailer's GVWR <= vehicle towing capacityWeight of all passengers and pets, weight of all supplies carried in the vehicle, on the roof, or on a hitch, weight over 150lbs for driver, PLUS tongue weight of trailer <= vehicle payloadIf the last two calculations are true, then you are within the limits. At this point, you need to determine if you want that "cushion" and, if so, how much you want it to be.

Tow capabilities | Good Sam Community

blt2ski
Moderator
Nov 20, 2021
LITEPHIL wrote:
I wouldn't. Every trailer I have bought new went straight down to the scales and every one was at least 400 lbs over the sticker and a couple were closer to 600 over.

How many of those trailers had dealer add-ons? Like an awning, roof top AC, larger addition LP tanks or batteries, generator......

Marty
LITEPHIL
Explorer
Nov 20, 2021
I wouldn't. Every trailer I have bought new went straight down to the scales and every one was at least 400 lbs over the sticker and a couple were closer to 600 over.
tim1973
Explorer
Nov 18, 2021
Replaced our mounts last year.
Grit_dog
Navigator
Nov 16, 2021
^True story.
jerem0621
Explorer II
Nov 16, 2021
mkirsch wrote:
If you're breaking things on a regular basis, wouldn't that be an indication that the tow vehicle is NOT suitable for what you're using it to pull?

I'm all for pushing the numbers but things should not be breaking.

Most GM trucks of this era break motor mounts relatively often. We’ve changed them for others too. Many of these trucks with 130k plus a thousand probably have broken motor mounts. But yea, my friends are breaking way too often.

Chinamart is to blame. Not his Suburban.

Thanks!
mkirsch
Nomad II
Nov 16, 2021
If you're breaking things on a regular basis, wouldn't that be an indication that the tow vehicle is NOT suitable for what you're using it to pull?

I'm all for pushing the numbers but things should not be breaking.
jerem0621
Explorer II
Nov 15, 2021
Sure thing. Just tow slow and deliberate.

If you saw what my buddy tows “all the time” with his 2011 Suburban it would make many keyboards melt here. ;)

We are getting pretty good at replacing motor mounts. I suppose you will to.

Drivers side motor mounts are weak on these trucks and I guess yours is probably broke right now if you are over 130k miles OR tow heavy often.

Yea, I swore mine wasn’t broke either. I was wrong.

Have fun, set the hitch up right. Firm up the tires, get better shocks and struts and enjoy the ride.

Dialed in set up with my Zinger and my 2011 Tahoe that “can’t tow nothing”

WD hitch not set up right at all on this pic

Thanks!

Jeremiah
tim1973
Explorer
Nov 09, 2021
Bionic Man wrote:
I had a 2011 Yukon Denali XL, and used it to tow a 7000 pound boat. Engine and transmission temps always ran high (would go over 240* in the mountains), and I never felt comfortable with the stability of the rig (read as the boat would push the SUV around). It was ok to tow at 65 MPH, but at 70, it would wander some. I never felt safe above 70 (which can make it tough to pass on a 2-lane road).

If you don't have mountains, and are using a WDH, you will likely be ok, but not ideal.

I currently run a 2011 Yukon Denali, pulling a 7200lb trailer. I live on the coast so no mountains. It does it, but it does tax the mechanics. Ive upgraded both the stock radiator and transmission cooler. Ive also installed a set of timbren helpers in the back, to give the air suspension some help. Ive been camping for a long time, had many different tow vehicles...both 3/4 and 1/2 ton.

Guess it all boils down to risk vs reward, the 3/4 ton will always tow better sure. But in my case, its more than just a tow vehicle, its a DD. So the other 95% of my driving I have to deal with the 3/4 ton beast. Good Luck!
Me_Again
Explorer III
Sep 15, 2021
It is always better to use the trailer GVWR and 10-12 percent of that for hitch weight. I do not think it is the right TV or trailer.
Bionic_Man
Explorer
Sep 14, 2021
I had a 2011 Yukon Denali XL, and used it to tow a 7000 pound boat. Engine and transmission temps always ran high (would go over 240* in the mountains), and I never felt comfortable with the stability of the rig (read as the boat would push the SUV around). It was ok to tow at 65 MPH, but at 70, it would wander some. I never felt safe above 70 (which can make it tough to pass on a 2-lane road).

If you don't have mountains, and are using a WDH, you will likely be ok, but not ideal.