Tow capacity, Electric brake box inside truck,tranny cooler?

[blgreene89]

We looking at purchasing a camper to live out of for about 6 months but also long term I don't want anything I can't pull if I choose too.
We live in North Carolina looking at going to Virginia SML, or across the USA (mountains, flat land etc...
My truck is a 2018 Ford F-150 4x4 3.5 liter V6 twin turbo specs say it can pull 13,200 lbs idk?

Preferably a towable camper and wondering how much weight on a camper I should be pulling dry weight, gross weight etc...?

Also, do I need to have an electric brake system installed in my truck for the camper?

And lastly, at what weight or length should I get an external transmission cooler installed?

Thanks,
Blake

[C_Schomer]

Remember that passengers and all of your cargo in the truck have to be included in your towing and hitch weights. I prefer to use the GVW of a trailer and then add passengers and truck cargo to get the total weight. I also like to have a lot more truck than I need! I have a DRW for my 15K GVW fifth wheel and I am darn glad I have that much truck when I’m in high winds. I’ve been seeing more trucks and RVs blown over on their sides in Southern Colorado that I’ve ever seen anywhere else before.
This guy bit off more than his F 150 could chew... don't make that mistake. This was on SB I-25 10-11-20 north of Walsenburg. Craig

[mkirsch]

It can pull 13,200lbs if you don't care how quickly you get where you're going.

It can pull 13,200lbs if the trailer is balanced perfectly so that you don't exceed the rating on the receiver hitch.

In short, you will not be happy pulling that much weight, AND you will be hard pressed to find a travel trailer that balances perfectly.

If you're towing a flatbed trailer loaded with bricks, and you can adjust the balance, and you're only going across town so you really don't care that you don't really want to get above 35MPH anyway.

[mhsmith]

You could purchase the OE brake controller and add it to your dash to save some money on install, but you will need to take it to the dealer and have them program the truck so the rest of the computers know that it's there and will function properly. Usually everything is there but you may need to add fuses for the controller and lights in the fuse block out front.

[valhalla360]

If you get anywhere close to 13,200lb, I'll give you 100-1 odds you are over your payload by the time you get ready to roll. The hitch weight alone should be somewhere around 1600-2000lb.

Check the truck, you probably already have a trans cooler and brake controller (if it fails, you can always do an after market one to get home but they work pretty good)

[Turtle_n_Peeps]

MFL wrote:
If your specs say you can pull a trailer weighing 13,200, you should already have the proper trans cooler. Towing a high walled RV, I'd suggest staying at 8K loaded to camp wt. That would be around 1K hitch wt, plus all your gear in the truck.

You absolutely need a trailer brake system. Fords IBC is a great option, that you might be able to add.

Jerry

Jerry pretty much saved me a bunch of typing. I would keep it 7 to 8K wet gross. Can you go above? Sure.......but I wouldn't. The more you keep it below 7 the more duty cycle you will have.

As far as the brake controller goes I'm not a big fan of IBC. If that thing goes out on a trip you're pretty much screwed. With a popular aftermarket brake controller, you just go to a trailer store and buy a new one and you're on the road again in one hour.

Don't worry about the tranny cooler.

Happy trailer shopping!!

[MFL]

If your specs say you can pull a trailer weighing 13,200, you should already have the proper trans cooler. Towing a high walled RV, I'd suggest staying at 8K loaded to camp wt. That would be around 1K hitch wt, plus all your gear in the truck.

You absolutely need a trailer brake system. Fords IBC is a great option, that you might be able to add.

Jerry