Tow vehicle - 2013 ford escape ecoboost

[Rycamp]

Hello,

This is my first post and joined as i can't find to seem many posts for this new vehicle. I purchased a 2013 ford escape SE and have some questoins about towing. I'm in the market to purchase a hybrid, i've been looking at light weight models and wondering if i can tow is safetly. I'm fine with getting a WDH or sway bar (don't know much about towing sorry if i got this wrong).

I was looking at this model :

Jayco Jay Feather Ultra Lite SLX Travel Trailer 16 XRB

Model Specifications 16 XRB
UVW 2575
Hitch Weight 315
GVWR 3500
Cargo Carrying Capacity 925
Exterior Height w/ AC 117"
Interior Height (Living Area) 78"
Fresh Water 20
Gray Water 15
Black Water 9
Exterior Length 18'4"

Another concern i have is the dry weight and tongue weight, does anyone own this model and have the wet weight? or will have i have to track one down and look at the sticket on the door.

My model of escape is the 2.0L ecoboost, 4WD, automatic. It states it can tow 3500LBS, with max 350 tongue weight. Also i opted not to get the tow package as all it includes is a Class 2 hitch receiver and Trailer Sway Control. Once i find more information and choose a trailer i will have this added after market.

With the smart people on these forums, i was hoping to get some input, will i be okay? i just can't figure this all out. This will be my first time ever having a camper, always tented.

Thanks for the help

[cummins2014]

Francesca Knowles wrote:

rexlion wrote:
From the 2013 Ford Escape Owner's Manual, 4th Printing:

RECOMMENDED TOWING
WEIGHTS

Be sure to take into consideration
trailer frontal area. Do not exceed 20 {square) feet...
if your vehicle is not equipped
with a towing package or 30 (square) feet...
if your vehicle is equipped with a
towing package.

:B

Looks like my '97 4-cyl Kia Sportage can outtow this puny Ford, hands down. My under-2,000 pound Trillium is 6 1/2 wide x 6 1/2 tall - that's 36 and change, square-footage wise. Fifty thousand tow-miles later, the Kia's still goin' strong.

See y'all out there...if you can catch me!

And we are squabbling about six square feet, get into the real world comparing that 4-cyl Kia, there is no comparison to that Kia ,and the 2013 Ford Escape with ecoboost. I would never be behind that Kia, so catching up is not factor 🙂

[Francesca_Knowl]

rexlion wrote:
From the 2013 Ford Escape Owner's Manual, 4th Printing:

RECOMMENDED TOWING
WEIGHTS

Be sure to take into consideration
trailer frontal area. Do not exceed 20 {square) feet...
if your vehicle is not equipped
with a towing package or 30 (square) feet...
if your vehicle is equipped with a
towing package.

:B

Looks like my '97 4-cyl Kia Sportage can outtow this puny Ford, hands down. My under-2,000 pound Trillium is 6 1/2 wide x 6 1/2 tall - that's 36 and change, square-footage wise. Fifty thousand tow-miles later, the Kia's still goin' strong.

See y'all out there...if you can catch me!

[rexlion]

From the 2013 Ford Escape Owner's Manual, 4th Printing:

RECOMMENDED TOWING
WEIGHTS
Note:
Do not exceed the trailer weight for
your vehicle configuration listed in the chart
below.
Note:
Be sure to take into consideration
trailer frontal area. Do not exceed 20 {square) feet...
if your vehicle is not equipped
with a towing package or 30 (square) feet...
if your vehicle is equipped with a
towing package.

[carringb]

Francesca Knowles wrote:

The language against control knob use is contrary to everything I've ever been told by other RVers and professionals alike, and to my own experience as well. Nothing stops a sway event faster than manual application of the trailer brakes. It's like magic.

Unless the trailer brakes lock up. Then things go from bad to worse. That's why they don't tell people to use the manual control. Some folks don't have the sense and/or motor skills to apply trailer brakes only in a safe manner. Somebody who isn't experience and is panicking from the sway will probably put them full-on.

[Francesca_Knowl]

Fordlover wrote:

Francesca Knowles wrote:
That Escape towing guide is certainly informative about the vehicle, but...I have a real problem with its language as to proper braking during a sway event.

Since WHEN is this good advice???:

Ford wrote:
– If your trailer starts to sway, apply brake pedal gradually. The sliding lever on the TBC should be used only for manual activation of trailer brakes when adjusting the gain. Misuse, such as application during trailer sway, could cause instability of trailer and/or tow vehicle

:h

The bolded above is great advice. Smooth inputs are ALWAYS a good idea, wether racing a sports car, or towing a trailer.

Applying trailer brakes only at the wrong time could certainly cause instability, so it is in there as a CYA, lawyer speak.

The language against control knob use is contrary to everything I've ever been told by other RVers and professionals alike, and to my own experience as well. Nothing stops a sway event faster than manual application of the trailer brakes. It's like magic.

Trailer-braking-first is such a well-understood principle in Europe that there's an automatic braking system that detects sway and stops it by applying trailer brakes only. Link to product
Here quoting from that site

Al-Ko wrote:
AL-KO ESC continuously evaluates the data and when critical lateral movements are recognised, ESC activates and applies the brakes immediately to bring the vehicle back into line in a smooth and controlled manner. Applying the brakes on the caravan immediately straightens the car and caravan and prevents any further oscillation.

That's what I've done for years, only my "sensing system" is the seat of my pants, and the manual control knob's the activator.

What am I missing here????

[Fordlover]

Francesca Knowles wrote:
That Escape towing guide is certainly informative about the vehicle, but...I have a real problem with its language as to proper braking during a sway event.

Since WHEN is this good advice???:

Ford wrote:
– If your trailer starts to sway, apply brake pedal gradually. The sliding lever on the TBC should be used only for manual activation of trailer brakes when adjusting the gain. Misuse, such as application during trailer sway, could cause instability of trailer and/or tow vehicle

:h

The bolded above is great advice. Smooth inputs are ALWAYS a good idea, wether racing a sports car, or towing a trailer.

Applying trailer brakes only at the wrong time could certainly cause instability, so it is in there as a CYA, lawyer speak.

[TugCE]

A friend of mine is a GM for a Ford Dealership here and we were just talking about this last week.

The one and only thing he said about the Escape Towing was DON'T Do it. He did not get into why but this is a Guy that usually Bleeds Blue so I was shocked to hear it come out of his mouth.

[Francesca_Knowl]

That Escape towing guide is certainly informative about the vehicle, but...I have a real problem with its language as to proper braking during a sway event.

Since WHEN is this good advice???:

Ford wrote:
– If your trailer starts to sway, apply brake pedal gradually. The sliding lever on the TBC should be used only for manual activation of trailer brakes when adjusting the gain. Misuse, such as application during trailer sway, could cause instability of trailer and/or tow vehicle

:h

[bikendan]

Fordlover wrote:
Escape towing guide

Read this. Specifically read about required equipment, frontal area, tongue weight, etc.

I'd stick with a Tent camper too. It's good to keep in mind that RV's are just about the most difficult type of trailer to tow. If you were talking about a 3,000 lb. boat or utility trailer, it would be easier to say no problem!

exactly, very few owners read their owner's manuals/inserts and don't realize all the info they need is in there.
small SUVs and minivans have frontal area limitations, yet very few owners of these vehicles are aware of it.
that's so auto companies can put up bigger towing numbers to draw in customers, but fail to divulge that that those numbers are for boats and flat trailer, not full-height travel trailers.

glad you posted that link.

[Fordlover]

Escape towing guide

Read this. Specifically read about required equipment, frontal area, tongue weight, etc.

I'd stick with a Tent camper too. It's good to keep in mind that RV's are just about the most difficult type of trailer to tow. If you were talking about a 3,000 lb. boat or utility trailer, it would be easier to say no problem!

[spoon059]

Gdetrailer wrote:
If the listed trailer tongue weight is correct you are only 45 lbs from your vehicle MAX tongue weight of 350 lbs.

Basically IF the numbers listed are TRUE (most published brochure weights are not accurate and often do not include battery, propane (or tanks) you can only add in 400 lbs of gear.

So if you want to haul 20 gallons of water that will be 160 lbs which leaves you 240 lbs of gear you can add in.

20 lb propane tank filled weights about 40 lbs.

Group 24 battery will weight about 65 lbs.

This leaves you about 135 lbs of personal gear you will be able to take..

Food, drinks, pots/pans, dishes, clothing, bedding, electronics most likely will take you over the 350 lb tongue weight..

To me not worth the effort... Find another vehicle which has a tow rating of say 5K lbs, you will be happier with the results.

OP, something else to consider is what YOU bring with you.

I have NEVER hauled my camper with full water tanks. If we go somewhere without water hookups, it usually has a filling station at the campground. Otherwise, we buy a couple gallon jugs of water for drinking and use the facilities at the park. I just saved 160 lbs in water weight there.

If you are going for a weekend trip and satisfied with hot dogs, chicken etc then you can get away with buying that at your destination (if there is a grocery store nearby) and save youself the weight of hauling food.

Again, 2 days of camping you can probably get away with wearing one outfit on the way up and bringing 1 change of clothes with you. If you are cooking over the firepit or bring a small grill with you then you don't need a ton of pots and pans.

You will be pushing the limits of your tow capabilities, but if you aren't taking any huge mountains you should be okay. You are used to tent camping, so you are used to being a minimalist. Some people on this forum have more stuff in their camper than I have in my house. Their isn't any reason that you can't enjoy your hybrid with the smaller tow vehicle that you have.

[tempforce]

i would stick with a tent/ foldout camper with the escape.
the unibody frame will have issues with any load over it's rating…
load the vehicle and camper light… use a sway control, brake control and a light duty load equalizing hitch...

[Mike_Up]

We have a 2012 Escape because the newer Escape was to much like a car, basically like her older Focus. The reason is that the 2013 has payload similar to the wifes old Focus, around 700 - 800 lbs. Her 2012 has around 1030 lbs so when we take a family road trip, we aren't overloading the car.

So what I'm getting at, while it may have the same 3500 lbs tow rating, you won't be able to have any passengers or have a heavy tongue weight. For that matter, you are limited to only a 350 lbs tongue weight anyhow. With a single axle travel trailer, they usually have a heavier 14%. Dual axles usually have a 13% tongue weight. So at 14%, your loaded trailer can be no more than 2500 lbs. (350 lbs / .14 ) .

Your best bet is sticking to an 8' or 10' pop up with a light tongue weight due to the low tongue weight rating and the low payload. The Ford Edge is just as bad with very low payload and a 350 lbs tongue weight.

The best bet would be an Explorer with a 500 lbs tongue weight rating and a much higher payload for a very small travel trailer.

[patperry2766]

You're looking at way too much trailer for that vehicle. I have the 2009 Escape with V-6 and the factory 3500 lb trailer tow package.

We just bought a Flagstaff high wall pop up that weighs close to 3300 lbs dry. We used the Escape to pull it home,, there would be absolutely no way I would ever consider the Escape as the primary tow vehicle. If I were going maybe less than 15-20 miles away on FLAT ground, I might consider it, but going up hills.....NO WAY JOSE.

you not only have to consider the weight of the trailer, but the frontal surface of the camper being a horsepower drag. I think that the most important part of the trailer tow package isn't the hitch, but the sway control. Since the Escape is such a short wheelbase vehicle, it wouldn't take much to get a trailer whipping behind the car, and you would be having to hold on for the ride.

I would be surprised if the max tow is still 3500 without the factory package. Since I can give you some solid advise, I wouldn't suggest a trailer over 2000-2200 lbs max.