tow vehicle confusion

[stevea56]

We have a Jayco 26 ft TT, 4600 lbs dry, less than 6000 lbs loaded
We want a Suburban/Yukon to pull it. We're told to get a 2500, which are hard to find in decent condition. then I see some 1500's such as a Yukon Denali with a 6.0 v8 and a 3.73 rear have a higher towing capacity than some 2500's - I'm confused

[kfp673]

stevea56 wrote:
We have a Jayco 26 ft TT, 4600 lbs dry, less than 6000 lbs loaded
We want a Suburban/Yukon to pull it. We're told to get a 2500, which are hard to find in decent condition. then I see some 1500's such as a Yukon Denali with a 6.0 v8 and a 3.73 rear have a higher towing capacity than some 2500's - I'm confused

No problem pulling that with a Yukon. We pull a TT with empty weight of 6800b (roughly 7800b loaded) 31' with a new Yukon and it's within the weight. You should have no problem at all. The saying is you can never have too much truck, which I agree, however a 2500 is not necessary at all for that light of a camper and from experience I don't think you will even see a benefit from a 3/4 with that kind of weight. Yukon max tow rating is something like 8400b and 1000 lb tongue weight. Hook it up, drive safe, and enjoy your vacations!

[Lantley]

stevea56 wrote:
We have a Jayco 26 ft TT, 4600 lbs dry, less than 6000 lbs loaded
We want a Suburban/Yukon to pull it. We're told to get a 2500, which are hard to find in decent condition. then I see some 1500's such as a Yukon Denali with a 6.0 v8 and a 3.73 rear have a higher towing capacity than some 2500's - I'm confused

In short towing capacity is just one factor. What is your payload capacity? What is the payload capacity of a 1500 vs. a 2500.
You need to be concerned with all parameters including hitch weight.
Consider the weight of all cargo and passengers as well.

[Heymon]

PAThwacker wrote:

Talk about bad advice.
My k2500sub weighs 6300lbs empty and is apples to oranges. You never weighed your's. How many passengers? 30ft Jayco stick and tin 5400/7600 29bhs. I would be over your gross combined ratio with my family of 4, gear in truck, and 1000lbs plus of gear in camper.

Modern Jayco 28bhs sits at dealers at 5480lbs with typical option packages. Add 1000 to 1500 to that number: 7000lbs all day long.

I tow a 3400lb dry 4400lb wet, 5000lb gvw hybrid. I know the weights I wrecked a one ton SRW K3500 due to panic stop poor braking, rain, and downhill green light on a 50mph suburban road. I was well within its 9600 gvw and 7600lb tow rating towing my current trailer.

I'm not sure what to make of your example. You were underweight and crashed anyway. I guess if you were overweight then what?

What do you think the negative consequences of my setup will be? I believe I am towing 7000 lbs or so as you say. My rig has been easy to handle and responsive to control inputs. I have had to stop quickly on a curve and did so without drama, though I was initially concerned about the amount of space I had. The only problem I've had was as I have mentioned, that the rear brakes on my TV got hot. Again, I would say that was my error in going downhill at too high of a gear and thus using the brakes more than had I been in a lower gear. If I was a thousand pounds lighter I think I still would have had an issue.

My consequences will be increased wear of components. Something will likely fail somewhat sooner than had I not been towing. But for my weekend use on short trips my rig is perfectly competent. It is a trade off I have considered--between getting a trailer that fits my needs, and being able to use the TV I already owned to tow it while also tolerating the TV on a daily use basis without towing.

Meanwhile, the OP wants to see if he can tow a trailer 1000 lbs lighter than mine with some sort of Yukon/Sub. If he gets the right 1500, he can. Is 2500 better for towing? Usually, yes, but he is having a tough time finding one. I don't think he needs to abandon the idea of a Yukon to tow if he can't find a 2500, and even if he gets the 2500 and is well within his weights he might still crash anyway per your example.

[PAThwacker]

Heymon wrote:
Just as a point of reference, I have a 2002 Yukon XL with the 5.3 and 3.73 gears. Tow rating is 7700 lb. GVWR is 7000 lbs and combined is 13000. I tow a 2008 Jayco 29BHS. Max weight for the trailer is 7500 lbs. So yes, I am pushing the envelope (but haven't weighed anything). I had the vehicle before the trailer and drive it often, so that is why I use it as a TV. Pickup truck will not work for my situation.

My experience has been good. I typically don't go more than 200 miles on a trip (one way) but in my area there are mountains to deal with and whatnot. I feel quite confident with my setup and on the road I am fairly relaxed. I feel the push/pull from box trucks the most, not so much big rigs, surprisingly. I use an Andersen Hitch and am pleased with it. I did upgrade the hitch to a Curt, because the OEM GM hitch could have problems.

If I were doing more than weekend things over longer distances, I would probably want a beefier TV, but mainly because at that point wear and tear on the 1500 would begin to be a concern. For my relatively occasional use I have no qualms about going anywhere.

One thing I did learn was to go downhill in a lower gear, like 2nd instead of 3rd. I went down from a campground at 7000 feet (Big Bear, CA) and got the rear brakes rather heated by the bottom despite judicious use of the brakes and low speed. There is a lot of weight on the back and the rear axle is doing more work while towing and braking than usual. Since the rear brakes are smaller than the front, they were not quite enough to stay cool. That issue would perhaps be lessened with a 2500, depending. I think it was more my gear selection than anything.

Just food for thought. My opinion is that you would be okay with a 1500 and your trailer.

Talk about bad advice.
My k2500sub weighs 6300lbs empty and is apples to oranges. You never weighed your's. How many passengers? 30ft Jayco stick and tin 5400/7600 29bhs. I would be over your gross combined ratio with my family of 4, gear in truck, and 1000lbs plus of gear in camper.

Modern Jayco 28bhs sits at dealers at 5480lbs with typical option packages. Add 1000 to 1500 to that number: 7000lbs all day long.

I tow a 3400lb dry 4400lb wet, 5000lb gvw hybrid. I know the weights I wrecked a one ton SRW K3500 due to panic stop poor braking, rain, and downhill green light on a 50mph suburban road. I was well within its 9600 gvw and 7600lb tow rating towing my current trailer.

[JWF]

I pull a 4000+ lb trailer with a Denali 6.0/3.73. I have to keep looking in the mirror to make sure it's still there, that's how good it pulls.

[Heymon]

Just as a point of reference, I have a 2002 Yukon XL with the 5.3 and 3.73 gears. Tow rating is 7700 lb. GVWR is 7000 lbs and combined is 13000. I tow a 2008 Jayco 29BHS. Max weight for the trailer is 7500 lbs. So yes, I am pushing the envelope (but haven't weighed anything). I had the vehicle before the trailer and drive it often, so that is why I use it as a TV. Pickup truck will not work for my situation.

My experience has been good. I typically don't go more than 200 miles on a trip (one way) but in my area there are mountains to deal with and whatnot. I feel quite confident with my setup and on the road I am fairly relaxed. I feel the push/pull from box trucks the most, not so much big rigs, surprisingly. I use an Andersen Hitch and am pleased with it. I did upgrade the hitch to a Curt, because the OEM GM hitch could have problems.

If I were doing more than weekend things over longer distances, I would probably want a beefier TV, but mainly because at that point wear and tear on the 1500 would begin to be a concern. For my relatively occasional use I have no qualms about going anywhere.

One thing I did learn was to go downhill in a lower gear, like 2nd instead of 3rd. I went down from a campground at 7000 feet (Big Bear, CA) and got the rear brakes rather heated by the bottom despite judicious use of the brakes and low speed. There is a lot of weight on the back and the rear axle is doing more work while towing and braking than usual. Since the rear brakes are smaller than the front, they were not quite enough to stay cool. That issue would perhaps be lessened with a 2500, depending. I think it was more my gear selection than anything.

Just food for thought. My opinion is that you would be okay with a 1500 and your trailer.

[geotex1]

Gdetrailer wrote:

Actually in many cases it is not much more "costly" to own a extra dedicated tow vehicle.

Insurance companies do not openly advertise that they offer a heavily discounted insurance for vehicles deemed for RECREATIONAL USE..

So you and your spouse can have two main "daily" drivers (one for each of you) and add on a third vehicle designated as an occasional recreational use vehicle. The third vehicle insurance often costs less than you would think due to the fact it is not intended to be used every day year round..

Now keep in mind that is for older used vehicles, new vehicles are going to cost more since the a lot of the cost of the insurance is based on the vehicles value..

Our third vehicle is only costing us $300 or so a year and our other vehicles cost nearly $800 each per year since they are considerably newer and we still carry comprehensive insurance on those.

Best bet is to ASK your insurance agent about what it would cost to add a vehicle for recreational use.. If they don't or won't offer that then find a new insurance company that does..

ABSOLUTELY! I have our Yukon XL classified for recreational use, and my insurance caps that at 8K miles per year. However, because it only has 45K on it and is a 2004 in like-new condition, I have opted to go with an agreed value policy so I don't see as steep as a discount as I could if I went with a standard full coverage policy based on book value. Even so, full coverage for it is half that of full coverage for my 2014 RAM daily driver.

True enough that not everyone can afford a "reserve" or dedicated vehicle for various reasons, but sometimes there's more cost benefit than realized. Especially if it can be bought outright and you do your own maintenance.

[SprinklerMan]

There is always the ford excursion V10 or diesel . I have the V10 and have no regrets. Pulls great , 30 ft 9000 lb sunset creek bunkhouse . I also plow snow with it , and pull my equipment with it .

[Gdetrailer]

rbpru wrote:
Keep in mind that, you have to drive, maintain, pay for and insure your TV. Few of us own a TV dedicated to just towing. Bigger and better cost more all the way around.

I get along fine with my F-150 E-Boost and I suppose an F-250 would be better. There were a lot of nice used F-150s when I was looking. Not so many nice used F-250s.

It seems a lot of folks buy F-150 and trade them off like cars. The larger trucks go to people who need and use them until no longer needed.

It usually comes down to; What do you want, What do you need, What can you afford to buy and maintain.

Actually in many cases it is not much more "costly" to own a extra dedicated tow vehicle.

Insurance companies do not openly advertise that they offer a heavily discounted insurance for vehicles deemed for RECREATIONAL USE..

So you and your spouse can have two main "daily" drivers (one for each of you) and add on a third vehicle designated as an occasional recreational use vehicle. The third vehicle insurance often costs less than you would think due to the fact it is not intended to be used every day year round..

Now keep in mind that is for older used vehicles, new vehicles are going to cost more since the a lot of the cost of the insurance is based on the vehicles value..

Our third vehicle is only costing us $300 or so a year and our other vehicles cost nearly $800 each per year since they are considerably newer and we still carry comprehensive insurance on those.

Best bet is to ASK your insurance agent about what it would cost to add a vehicle for recreational use.. If they don't or won't offer that then find a new insurance company that does..

[rbpru]

Keep in mind that, you have to drive, maintain, pay for and insure your TV. Few of us own a TV dedicated to just towing. Bigger and better cost more all the way around.

I get along fine with my F-150 E-Boost and I suppose an F-250 would be better. There were a lot of nice used F-150s when I was looking. Not so many nice used F-250s.

It seems a lot of folks buy F-150 and trade them off like cars. The larger trucks go to people who need and use them until no longer needed.

It usually comes down to; What do you want, What do you need, What can you afford to buy and maintain.

[geotex1]

You will find MANY permutations for GM SUVs because of the available options as I indicated. To give you an example, my current TV is a 2004 Yukon XL 2500 SLT with 3rd row bench, 2wd, 8.1L, 4.10 geared, 8600 GVW and stickered payload is 2440# and the maximum trailer weight is 12,000# and GCWR is 19,000#. I don't believe GM ever made a more capable full-size SUV than this configuration. It gets 10.3mpg combined driving or towing our ~7200# loaded TT. Doesn't matter! LOL

[PAThwacker]

Even if you find a 2002 to 2006 6.0 3.73 4x4 it is not that bad. You can comfortably load it heavy and tow 6400lb plus loaded trailers.


Mine is a 4 seat witn second row captains, and removed rear folder. Labeled payload: 2305lb

Same engine and trans of compatible 3/4 ton and one ton gas pickup!

[APT]

Every vehicle has several ratings that relate to towing a trailer. Towing a travel trailer with most half ton and smaller vehicles exceeds some other of the vehicle's ratings. Payload for family RVing is the first thing. If you have 1400 pounds of payload and a family that weights 7000 pounds, then you only have 700 left for trailer TW. Half ton SUVs have payloads that range from 1100-1700 pounds, all with theoretical tow ratings in the 8000+ range. That's great if you are towing a race car on an open trailer by yourself. An RV with family is a lot harder for the tow vehicle. So as you shop, I recommend you check the driver's door for this sticker that is on every 2006+ vehicle. Note what it lists where mine says 2051 for as equipped payload.



That weight trailer is fine for a half ton if the vehicle isn't loaded up with 1000 pounds of people and stuff. Performance wise, you may not be pleased with something with a 4-spd trans unless it was a 2000-2006 8.1L. Any 2009+ half ton 5.3L/6-spd/3.42 would perform very well. Shopping used (or even new) half ton SUVs with the plan for towing a travel trailer can be challenging, especially the 2009+. Many came with the 3.08 axle or 3.42 without the HD trailing package which means under 6000 pound tow rating. Every 3/4 ton includes the extra towing equipment standard. So while rare to find a 3/4 ton, you know it has when you need.

I highly highly highly recommend a 6-spd trans. for GM, that means 2007+ Yukon Denali, 2008+ 3/4 ton, or 2009+ regular half ton. It makes a huge difference IMO in towing performance. If you are open to other brands, 2007+ Sequoia and 2007+ Expedition also come with strong engines and 6-spd transmissions.

[Iraqvet05]

I towed the Jayco in my signature (5000 lbs dry) with a 2007 1500 5.3 3.42 Silverado for the first season and hated it. When the TT and the TV were all loaded up with our gear and family of 4, it did ok on flat, open roads but when I got into the rolling hills of Missouri, that 5.3 and 4 speed struggled with that weight and the transmission was constantly shifting. I sold it for an older 2500 and haven't regretted it. The 6.0 is a wiser choice but you will definitely have to ensure the payload capacity is up to par with a 1500 6.0 Yukon. I'd hold out for a 2500 if you can...with a beefier frame and suspension you won't feel like the trailer is pushing you around.