Forum Discussion
ognend
Apr 13, 2021Explorer
philh wrote:
You want to exceed payload capacity, that's your business.
I don't want to exceed the REAL payload capacity but I need to know what this REAL number is. I am questioning whether the number on the sticker is a REAL number or a number made to fit a GVWR limiting rating. In other words, is the sticker payload capacity just made up to make up the difference to 10,000 GVWR or is it a REAL number based on the ACTUAL components of the vehicle I own.
philh wrote:
Are you aware of all the suspension, tires, and axle differences between a higher capacity truck and your truck? It used to be, and it's been a long time since I looked, the 1 ton spring is slightly different to the 3/4 ton, with an extra leaf. I also know there are lower capacity tires available on both models. You also have to deal with GVWR differences between 1T and 3/4T. I believe the rear axle is the same for the same ratio.
Instead of someone listing POSSIBLE differences, it would be nice if they could list the ACTUAL differences. Then we can have an ACTUAL conversation? In fact, it would not really be a conversation. If you can list the differences and explain to me why my truck can only take 2184lbs on the rear axle, I am selling it tomorrow, it's not like I was born in it.... :)
philh wrote:
You're convinced you're absolutely right and don't think Ford measured things correctly. I will tell you that most OEM engineers are generally top of the heap, getting recruited from all the top schools.
I am not convinced in anything but it would be nice if we could sit down with the ACTUAL algorithm used at Ford to determine the payload capacity number. I find it extremely suspicious that my weight rating is EXACTLY 2184 lbs, for example.
Look, I own my truck outright. As per KBB, I could probably get $50K for it. I could take that $50K and go get the new 7.3L Godzilla Ford or the new 6.6L Chevy gasser. Both are in the 3500-3700 lbs payload ratings, way more than what I need. They would be new trucks, with warranties etc. I would even probably have money left over to take the missus somewhere nice - most of the Chevys I would consider are in the $42-45K range, for example. But I need to know that I am going to be jumping through all these hoops for a reason.
Thanks!
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