Towing with a half ton

We have the Zinger ...see sig below...no slide with two kids. Now the the kids are getting bigger.....more stuff and now two vs one dog ....its a bit tight. But we have no slide. I would purchase the same TT with a slide....to stay around 7K not more when fully loaded.

The half ton we have is our second Tundra...moved from the 07 double cab to 10 crew max with the same options....5.7 etc. We now have 80k and no issues.

I'm looking for a similar TT as you.... check out the Keystone Bullet 272BHS. Its currently my front runner and I think it might work for you... double over double bunks, and dry weight is 5056, (or 7540 fully loaded). There are lots of options!

Maybe missed it, but without knowing 'which' half ton you have...talking
about the trailer is putting the horse before the cart

You have lots of advice, but I'd like to see the TV's GVWR, F/R-GAWR, engine
size, and a confirmation of the diff ratio.

2014, so the close ratio automatic with the double OD (it is an
automatic, right?)...so the diff ratio can be a MPG ratio...up to a
point and that depends on the size of the trailer/how you load &
pack/where you drive/etc

There are several variations of 'half ton' from the OEMs. Some OEMs have
more flavors than others. Why am asking for the GVWR and the front/rear GAWR.

The payload has some bearing on the rear GAWR, but not definitive enough
for me if I was to be towing heavy, as the OP's comments indicate

Does your TV have the integrated trailer brake controller?

Then the obligatory questions on modifications and upgrades to the
'stock' vehicle.

Over sized wheels/tires?

Lifted? If so, suspension or body or both?

Engine/tranny mods? Meaning tuner?

These affect the tow and carry ratings of the truck. I don't know
the OEM tire OD (rev's per mile is the better unit of measure) and
if your tires are larger...they *REDUCE* the ratings by an effect
change in diff ratio

A picture of your drivers door labels would be most helpful

APT wrote:
Keep it to about 6000 pound dry and you'll be happy. That will grow to 7000-7500 loaded with camping gear and toys with 900 pounds of TW.

Our Prime Time Tracer 3000BHS fits that description exactly. 6000 lbs dry, 7500 lbs GVW, 33' long, queen bed, sofa bed, and two bunks.

W/D hitch, sway control, and a brake controller definitely needed.

Yep, there are options that will work. Our trailer works for our half ton, but it is a pretty basic model that doesn't have a slide and is getting too small for us. But there are plenty of options out there that are light, have slides and bunks.

Like others have mentioned, shoot for 5-6k dry weight, and you should be fine.

Good luck!

Keep it to about 6000 pound dry and you'll be happy. That will grow to 7000-7500 loaded with camping gear and toys with 900 pounds of TW.

You have MANY, MANY options. You do need to shop with the weight in mind. But, DO NOT eliminate any length of trailer because it looks like it will be too heavy. New TTs come with a "yellow" sticker. On that sticker you will find the weight of the TT as it sits on the lot in front of you, with every thing you see on, or in the TT. It will also tell you the weight with a battery, and propane, plus the weight with full water tanks. Really good information to have. It will also have the carrying capacity on it. So you will know how much it will carry, and what it will weigh loaded to the max. That can be use full, or meaningless, depending on how you camp. I will NEVER load my TT to it's max, so it means nothing to me. Some are married to Lucy, and they will load theirs to max, so it mans something to them. how you load your's is totally up to you. Just be aware of all your numbers.

As to length. Means nothing as to how much it weighs. My TT is 31 feet long has a 18 foot slide, and weighed 4800lb dry, meaning as it sat on the lot. After I loaded all my camping stuff in it. It weighs a little less than 6000lb, and that is ready to camp. With everything we need to have a great trip. Your TV would have little problem towing my TT. Would do great.

You would need a WDH. A properly setup WDH. The key to towing with ease is getting the TT, and hitch adjusted correctly. IF you get it right, you will have no sway. Best thing is to get it right, and then, and only then add sway control. Never try to fix sway with a sway control bandaid. Fix the sway first, no trailer should sway if it is properly setup.

And it would help to get a heavier tire for the TV. Most trucks come with tires rated to 2271lbs. they do just OK. However a tire rated to 2601lb, and 50 psi will handle the TT much better, and always keep the trailer tires aired to their max, usually 50 psi.

Most important. Have fun, and be care full. The TV with the TT will take longer to get up to highway speed, and will take much longer to stop, so leave more room and start stopping sooner. It will also take more room to turn, so drive accordingly. And enjoy. It is not rocket science, it is not hard. Or every one couldn't do it. Just pay attention to detail.

Don't forget that the trucks load capity includes passengers, fuel, and everything you put in the TT. Food clothing and even the water in the tanks.

We have an older 30 ft TT that its dry weight is 5500 pounds. They are out there!

Sessionh wrote:
Thanks again for all the advice. My sticker on the door says to not exceed 1703lbs.

Ok, this is your starting point.

Next, have you added any accessories or options to your truck since you bought it new? If yes, then the weight of those need to be subtracted from your 1703 lbs.

Next, you need to gather up all the stuff you plan on putting in or on your truck, including you, passengers, equipment, tools, camping gear, wood, etc. and subtract that from the figure you got above.

What is left over will be the maximum weight of a travel trailer's tongue weight your truck will safely handle.

So, find the trailer to your liking and get the GVWR of the trailer and multiply that weight by .15 (15%). That will give you the trailer's tongue weight. Match that up with what payload figure you came up with above. If under, you're pretty much good to go. If over, find another trailer.

As mentioned in a previous reply above, you will also need a weight distribution device...preferably one with integrated sway control. There are basically two different systems.

First is those controlled by friction (ie: Reese Dual Cam and Equal-i-zer) and those controlled by mechanical means (ie: Hensley Arrow and Pro Pride). The mechanical device will eliminate the possibility of sway, but their cost is much more than the friction type. Finding a used one on ebay will cut the cost a lot.

The friction type units are much cheaper, but keep in mind they only help to control sway....not eliminate it.

If you are purchasing a new trailer, maybe you can get the dealer to include one of the mechanical devices in on the price of the trailer.

Good luck in your quest.

Ron

Sessionh wrote:
I did get the upgraded gears. They are 3.42 and I as best I can tell that puts my towing weight at 9500lbs.

Thanks for the reply.

Don't guess at this. Everything you need is in your owners manual (including your max tongue weight), glove box sticker, and in the door (as already discussed). There is a towing chart that lists all the configurations, gears, box size, cab type, and their respective towing capacities. Double check your gears by looking for the RPO code in your glove box. The GU6 code = 3:42 gears.

Also, assuming your towing capacity really is 9500#, don't expect to tow a trailer that heavy. Realistically you'll be looking at 7000# or 7500# max GVWR for your trailer. Towing close to your capacity is doable but a less than pleasant towing experience.