Truck Bed access doors

Two words: "drill" and "glue".

Drill a hole in the door and glue the metal latch tube inside the mentioned hole.

(sigh)

Jaxom wrote:

deltabravo wrote:
Two good tips posted previously:

A slider style latch won't work on the Wolf Creek doors, because the doors close over the wall, rather than recessing in to the wall like on other campers with bed access hatches. The doors on WC campers are raised panel doors, much like kitchen cabinets in a house.

Not exactly accurate as you could mount the slider on the panel next to the door. The slide bolt would extend into the edge of the door. Reinforced by the proper edge strike plate.

Per my line of thinking, and the reason for my comment, it is correct. Using the slide type latch as is, and not hacking up cabinet doors, it wouldn't work. As designed, the latch wouldn't work without piecing together parts of multiple latch mechanisms by finding a plate to fit the edge of the cabinet door, and then hope the cabinet door frame doesn't split open when you screw the reinforcing plate in to it.

Doing it that way is not something I would be will do to, and take the chance of damaging the cabinet door. It would also detract from the clean look of the cabinet work.

deltabravo wrote:
Two good tips posted previously:

A slider style latch won't work on the Wolf Creek doors, because the doors close over the wall, rather than recessing in to the wall like on other campers with bed access hatches. The doors on WC campers are raised panel doors, much like kitchen cabinets in a house.

Not exactly accurate as you could mount the slider on the panel next to the door. The slide bolt would extend into the edge of the door. Reinforced by the proper edge strike plate.

Hi Nolan,
Mine did the same thing after a few trips. Check the roller latch on the camper to ensure the screws are tight. If they're not they'll move around and prevent a good connection when the door is closed. If the screws aren't getting a good bite into the wood replace them with longer screws so the roller latch doesn't move around. What you did with the other side is what I did, spread the end piece out a bit for a tighter fit. Since I made these changes I haven't had any issues, but then again, I always travel with a vent or a window slightly open to prevent vacuum issues.

I like the latch slides that my old Lance had, as others have noted. For getting there a case of "suds" would do the trick, but what to do for the return trip?

https://www.leevalley.com/

They have everything!

The latch that was linked would work if you mounted it to a wooden block that was the same height as your door face.

Two good tips posted previously:

The screwdriver method of spreading the piece on the door, and the piece on the cabinet frame needing possible adjustment.

The piece on the frame, I am almost sure that the holes on those are slotted, to allow for adjustment in or out.

A slider style latch won't work on the Wolf Creek doors, because the doors close over the wall, rather than recessing in to the wall like on other campers with bed access hatches. The doors on WC campers are raised panel doors, much like kitchen cabinets in a house.

I would bet that changes in air pressure in the camper are causing the door to pop open as a result of the lose latch.

I always travel with the roof vent slightly open in the bathroom after finding out that a vacuum was being created at highway speeds, causing water to get sucked in the weep holes on the front window below the bed.

weedrancher wrote:
This is what is on my access doors. Positive latching and can’t be pushed open from the outside.

http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/products.php?product_id=319

That's exactly what my Northstar has.

This is what is on my access doors. Positive latching and can’t be pushed open from the outside.

http://www.factoryrvsurplus.com/products.php?product_id=319