Truck trailering packages

[Skycrath]

I’m totally new to both the truck and travel trailer worlds. But I want to make sure I get the appropriate trailering package on my new truck, both for my needs now and any trailer upgrades I may make in the future. I’ll initially be towing a 22ft travel trailer, but want a truck that can handle a 30ft travel trailer if I decide I need/want more living space in a couple years. I’ve pretty much decided on a Chevy Silverado 1500 V8 and I wanted to get advice from RVers as to what I truly need in a trailer package for the truck (versus what the Chevy sales people think I need, none of whom actually have any RV experience).

So, I’m still not totally clear on what towing-related components are part of the tow vehicle and what towing components are part of the travel trailer. For the purpose of today’s post, I want to focus on the truck towing components. From the online research I’ve done so far, the truck towing components consist of a receiver hitch, receiver tube and wiring system. Please let me know if there is anything I’ve missed.

The truck sales person said it was better to get a truck that has a receiver hitch from the factory versus an after market hitch. They said the hitches from the factory are part of the truck frame versus an after market hitch that is welded on, thus making the factory hitch stronger and more reliable. This made sense to me, although they could have just been feeding me a line. 

I’m also very confused about some of the item in the trailering packages, as far as what I need and what I really don’t need. I’m pretty sure I’m going to need things like an integrated brake controller and heavy duty cooling. I plan to spend a good bit of time in the mountains, so there will be a lot of up and down on some relatively steep roads. I’ve also read it is important to consider weight-carrying versus weight-distributing hitch, which I think is a trailer-related component. But I’d like to know if the best trailer hitch type for my needs will affect the truck trailering components in any way. Since I’m buying the truck first, I definitely want to make sure it has everything I’ll need to properly support the trailer.

[Lantley]

goducks10 wrote:
I would buy the 30' trailer and the 3/4 ton truck now. It will save you $1,000's down the road.
Any 3/4 ton gas or diesel will handle a 30' TT. Longer and heavier if you are inclined.
By starting with a 1/2 ton and planning on going larger, you'll limit yourself to 'Lite' 30' TT's. You will also lose a bunch of $$$ buying now and trading/selling in a few years. Way more than you will lose on your truck if you decide to trade or sell it later on. RV's depreciate fast.

Buy your 2nd trailer first! It always cost more to get it right on the 2nd try!

[goducks10]

I would buy the 30' trailer and the 3/4 ton truck now. It will save you $1,000's down the road.
Any 3/4 ton gas or diesel will handle a 30' TT. Longer and heavier if you are inclined.
By starting with a 1/2 ton and planning on going larger, you'll limit yourself to 'Lite' 30' TT's. You will also lose a bunch of $$$ buying now and trading/selling in a few years. Way more than you will lose on your truck if you decide to trade or sell it later on. RV's depreciate fast.

[Skycrath]

Haha, can compute but don't necessarily like to. 😉

monkey44 wrote:
Math - right 🙂 Biotechs should be able to compute well...

[monkey44]

Math - right 🙂 Biotechs should be able to compute well...

[Skycrath]

Tons of great information, thanks so much to everyone. Much more math than I anticipated, but best for me to figure it all out now so I don't run into any problems later on.

[gmckenzie]

IF you are stuck on a 1/2 ton, you want the GM Max Trailering package. The truck should come with the bigger mirrors (as the first clue) and the code NHT on the sticker in the glovebox. I would not try to tow a 30' with a non-NHT GM half ton.

For my 2015 GMC with the above, I have a payload of 2,015 lbs (per the sticker on the door jam) and a max trailer weight of 10,800 (meaningless number from a brochure).

I tow a 33''4" 2010 Cougar 30RKS that has a GVW of 8,200 lbs (and I've scaled it at that loaded). This put me at my maximum payload. I also use a Equal-i-zer 4 pt hitch that does both weight distribution and sway control. I'd recommend this hitch or one like it.

Any more weight and I'd need a 3/4 ton. Interesting that the current version of the trailer has a GVW of 9,500 lbs. I would not tow that with my truck.

Right now, I'd be inclined to wait until the new 3/4 tons come out. the 2020 Sierra/Silverado 2500HD will come with a 6.6L gas motor and close to double the payload of mine. If you don't like them (and I really do like the looks of the GMC) then the price on the 2019's should come down as dealers try to clear them out. Should be mid-June by everything I've read.

[73guna]

Here is a great video for you to watch.
https://youtu.be/qwFLOBrADBs

[handye9]

Things to keep in mind, for your truck / trailer shopping.

1. The RV sales person has no idea what you're going to load in the trailer. Only thing they know for sure, is unloaded weight of the trailer, and advertised "max tow" weights for various truck models. They may try to sell you something that puts a stretch on your truck's capabilities, before you load it with camping gear. They'll tell you the trailer has XXX lbs of hitch / tongue weight. Don't count on that number for your calculations. Most likely, when the trailer is loaded up for camping, it's actual tongue weight will be a couple hundred pounds heavier. Tongue weight is not a constant number, it fluctuates during every trip.

2. Advertised "max tow" weights are an "UP TO" number, and they are calculated without passengers or cargo. Depending on suspension, cab configuration (single cab, extended, crew cab), drive train, power train, installed options, etc, every truck has it's own payload and true "max tow" weight. You need to check the numbers on each and every 1500, 2500, F150, F250, etc.

3. There is a tire / loading sticker (drivers door jamb) on every truck. On that sticker, there is a number for "max occupant / cargo weight" (AKA payload). That number is that particular truck's capacity to carry the combined weight of aftermarket accessories (bed liners / covers, bed caps, etc), people, pets, car seats, luggage, entertainment systems, a weight distributing hitch / anti sway equipment, and tongue weight from a trailer.

4. Part of the manufacturers calculation of max tow weight, is payload used to carry hitch equipment and tongue weight. When you use some of the payload for people and stuff, you no longer have the payload to support that max tow weight. It's very common to run out of payload, long before you get close to towing that max weight.

5. The closer you get to being at or over your weight ratings, the more unpleasant your towing experience will be.

6. Average trailer load (dishes, pots and pans, camp chairs, BBQ equipment, bedding, groceries, water, etc) is 800 to 1000 lbs. Depending on how close these things are loaded to front of the trailer, the more they add to tongue weight.

7. Tongue weight should be at minimum of ten percent of loaded trailer weight. Average is about 12.5 percent. Not enough tongue weight can cause trailer sway.

8. If you know the payload on a particular truck, you can subtract the combined weight of your passengers, cargo, and 100 lbs for a distribution hitch, and what is left over is available for carrying tongue weight. You can then divide that available payload by .13, and that will give you a ball park number for LOADED trailer weight that would put that truck near its max capacity.

9. When you go trailer shopping, look at the GVWR of the trailer, not the UVW the sales person is talking about. Multiply the GVWR by .13 to get an approximate loaded tongue weight.

[hornet28]

The salesman is BSing you about aftermarket hitches being welded on. They are bolted on the same as the factory hitches. Another vote for a 3/4 ton if you are planning on upgrading to a 30' TT unless you are a guy who can easily buy a new truck again to fit the bigger trailer

[opnspaces]

1/2 ton is good for a 22 foot trailer. But you would be better off with a 3/4 ton truck for a 30 foot trailer. You definitely want a towing package which should include a receiver and wiring, upgraded cooling including an external transmission cooler, towing mirrors and hopefully an integrated brake controller.

As far as your concern on the hitch, your 1/2 ton will probably not have the payload capacity (think about trailer tongue weight as well as weight of the gear in the bed here) to worry about which hitch you buy. Both the factory and the aftermarket will work fine for what you are going to tow.

I would ask about the rear axle gear ratio on the truck and stay away from things in the 3.5x or 3.4x or lower range. I would think you want at a minimum a 3.7x or even into the 4.x's to allow you to upgrade in the future.

Now go online and research a few trailer weights both for 22 foot and maybe 30 foot trailers. Take the advertised dry weights and add 1,000 pounds (Just a Wild A** Guess here). Now take 15 percent of that total. This represents the tongue weight of the trailer you are considering. Write these numbers down and take the list with you to the truck dealer.

At the dealer mostly ignore the huge towing capacity numbers in the brochure and just open the drivers door and look at the yellow sticker on the door jamb. This will give you the true capacity for that particular truck. Pay attention to the payload here as it will likely be surprisingly low. That payload number is based on a single 150 pound driver. Now add in your passengers weights. If you have kids they will get heavier as they get older. Maybe figure 200 lbs for every additional male and 125 lbs for every additional female. Subtract that number from the payload capacity. What about the weight distribution hitch, bicycles, firewood, extra water. Maybe go conservative and subtract an additional 150 pounds from the capacity.

Now you're left with the true capacity of the truck you are considering. This is where the size and therefore weight of the trailer comes in. Look at the list you brought with you and subtract the tongue weight from what just you calculated as the trucks payload number above. Does the truck you are considering have enough payload capacity to carry that tongue weight or are you hitting negative numbers?


Oh also, you are correct that the weight distribution hitch is an add on part and not part of the new truck.

[troubledwaters]

Since your brand new to towing, take your time and do plenty of research before you put your money into something that isn't what you needed. A good place to start that research is here(clicky)
This is not a matter of buy a truck and then just go out and buy a trailer.

[Lwiddis]

"The truck sales person said it was better to get a truck that has a receiver hitch from the factory versus an after market hitch"

It also makes sense for the sales person...you'll pay more to the dealer for the the hitch instead of paying an aftermarket installer.

My Tahoe is similar to a Chevy 1500. I have a rated payload of 1595 and tow capacity of 8500 but I wouldn't (and don't) go over 6000 pounds.

[drsteve]

Buying the truck first is usually not a good idea. You may get to the RV dealer's lot and fall in love with a TT that your new truck is not up for. If you decide you want a 30 footer, you may find that the truck has too little payload capacity to carry the hitch weight of the trailer AND you, your family, and whatever cargo you wish to put in the truck. Pay no attention to the towing capacity on a half ton truck, you will run out of payload before ever reaching it.

That said, get the most heavy duty towing package they offer.

[philh]

If you're stuck on a 1/2 ton, you're going to be pushing it for a 30' trailer. 3/4T is better for that trailer. Diesel is more better than gas, but that's an expensive option that won't be necessary until you get into larger 5th wheels.

On a 1/2 get the max tow package, and make sure the truck has towing mirrors and towing brake controller. you will want a wt distributing hitch and sway control of some sort.