Carb cleaner?!?
I'd use liquid wrench or some such that won't harm the piston ring/cyclinders
What is happening, my guess, is that the carbon build up is NOT at the tip, but
*ALL* along the extended nose barrel. That then crumbles as it comes along and
further binds
Recommend liquid wrench type, work it loose till it stops, turn it back
in 1/4 turn and then spray to soak a bit
Loosen till it stop again. Turn it in a 1/4 turn and spray.
This will soak the carbon and soften it so that it won't bind.
Repeat till they come out or bust...
Good luck !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
PS...soap box rant....WHEN ARE THE OEM'S going to hire engineers who
actually wrench their own vehicles???
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...