Upgrading Tow Vehicle

drcook wrote:
Also if buying a used diesel, be skeptical of:

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2004.5 and 2005 GM/Chevy Duramaxes. Engine RPO code LLY

They have overheat issues and head gasket issues. A blown head gasket's price tag at the dealership is 4000.00 to 5000.00. It is 600 to a grand and a week's worth of work to do it yourself. I cured my overheating issue with an extra radiator and larger trans cooler, plus a GM installed '06 airbox and other changes. We got the truck for $10,000 of sticker so I am OK with my fixes, but I am making sure I don't do anything to blow the HG's. Unfortunately, due to a design issue that was subsequently changed, it is probably inevitable.

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You didn't consider the Killer Bee fix with bigger turbo inlet?

I've not had the problem (knock wood) towing my small 10k 5th wheel.

Why did you go to a larger transmission cooler?

I would think you would be very happy with an F250 with the 6.2. My buddy full-timed for two years with one towing a trailer larger than yours. You mentioned you are buying used so I would be patient and find a nice clean rig with a 6 speed. I believe that was 2007 and later.

There are many on this forum who speak well of the Chevy / GMC with the 6.0.

Good luck,
Stu

Any modern gas 2500 gas powered truck will be much more powerful than the one you have. The 5.4 is kind of pathetic.
I wouldn't buy a diesel for your present situation.
My pick of the 2500 gas trucks would be the Ram with the 6.4 Hemi.

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I'm leaning more toward the gasser after reading all of the posts. I'll most likely buy used, probably nothing older that 2011 or 2012. If I stay with Ford, the 6.2 looks like it would do the job for me.

Thavik wrote:
My wife and I bought our first travel trailer earlier this year. It's 32' long and has a GVWR of 7,000 pounds. We've taken it on 6 trips so far this year, and I've been pulling it with my Ford F150 with the 5.4 engine.


Thanks in advance.

With such a lite trailer, you should be right in the F150, 5.4, wheel house. Mt TT has a GVWR of 7400, of course it doesn't weight anywhere near that. (around 6K). Been towing that weight with this truck for 8 years. All over the NC mountains. Have yet to need all the power it offers. The 5.4 is a tough mean engine

You are on the right track and a gasoline fueled 3/4 ton model from any of the manufactures will put a smile on your face the first time you pull out onto the highway. I would look beyond the Ford 5.4 V-8. Had one in a F-250. Underpowered for me.

Also if buying a used diesel, be skeptical of:

2001 to beginning of model year 2004 GM/Chevy Duramaxes. Engine RPO code LB7

They have injector issues. Very costly. I just spoke to a guy in Nebraska (when on vacation) that was sold one. He had to put in 6 injectors right off the bat. Those are over 300 a piece and the top end has to be taken apart as the injectors are inside the valve covers.

2004.5 and 2005 GM/Chevy Duramaxes. Engine RPO code LLY

They have overheat issues and head gasket issues. A blown head gasket's price tag at the dealership is 4000.00 to 5000.00. It is 600 to a grand and a week's worth of work to do it yourself. I cured my overheating issue with an extra radiator and larger trans cooler, plus a GM installed '06 airbox and other changes. We got the truck for $10,000 of sticker so I am OK with my fixes, but I am making sure I don't do anything to blow the HG's. Unfortunately, due to a design issue that was subsequently changed, it is probably inevitable.

The best years (in my opinion) as far as used Duramax diesels is 06/07 engine code LBZ. They have the least pollution control devices and had the fixes that GM learned from the prior 2 generations on them.

Ford diesels have had their growing pains also.

GM trucks, whether gas or diesel, have an issue with brake lines, especially in the rust belt states. There are a couple metal clips that they used that start a point of corrosion. Now brake lines can be considered normal maintenance, but people just have to be aware that there are issues that can hasten the problems.

Ours blew in the driveway with the trailer attached. Needless to say camping was ruined that weekend. Our truck was undercoated when new and touched up annually. The blow out/rot out happened right at the location of the metal clip. 2 dissimilar metals, in the presence of salt caused the reaction and hastened the rust.

We put stainless steel lines in our truck, but also be aware, that if the front brake lines of a GM pickup with ABS are replaced, the brakes will need to be bled at a dealership as it takes a GM Tech2 tool to cycle the ABS valves to get the air out.

Now why do I bend your ear with all this ? Vehicles are getting more and more complicated. What is such a nice feature when they are new can turn out to be a tremendous headache money drain 1 or 2 owners down the road.

Do your homework, use the internet. Google is your friend. Try and get a used vehicle with a warranty. If you live in the rust zone, spend a little more and buy a truck from down south. Talk to people that have had their truck a long time or are the 2nd / 3rd owners. Folks that have the wherewithal to keep trading vehicles tend to not experience the issues that tend to crop up with age. Folks from down south/out west don't experience what happens to trucks that come from the north east.

Either would work, so buy the one you prefer. I don't *need* a diesel, but I like driving it a lot better than any gas truck, so I drive a diesel. If buying new, cost is mostly a wash so don't get caught up on that. If buying used, you can get a better deal on a gas rig.

^ agree

Yes - nice used 3/4 tonner with a Big Gas engine.

I think diesel is overkill in your situation. Diesels like to be run hard. A gas model with the big engine would serve you well, I think.