Want to add a battery to my truck camper - help please

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/26951778/gotomsg/26953379.cfm#26953379

You could put one in the bed...

Ran across this while doing some searches. Wonder how things worked out and what solution Tooldad found? In one statement he said that all he wanted was walk around lighting while boondocking. Best solution is LED Puck lights sold at Walmart and Harbor Freight. Velcro backing supplied.

When I installed my second battery for my camper, I installed an isolation switch which will allow the use of Battery 1, Battery 2, Both Batteries, or totally Off.

tooldad1041 yes if your truck indeed shuts off the charge line when not running then camper will only draw from camper battery-effectivley truck isolates itself so solenoid not needed. Only benefit would be running a larger charge line directly from source. Could be done later if you decide you want faster charging etc.

So your good to go-just add battery, when truck is running it will charge-when off camper cant drain truck and only use new battery.
As to where-if its not prewired for battery I would assume installing inline as you said on the 12v feed. I would think a positive disconnect on 12v feed to camper if it doesnt have one (sounds like not) to ensure no loads when stored. I assume since no pre wire for battery you only have an inverter and not a charger. So maintenance will only be by truck or other manual means.

pezvela at least on our 01 Ford F250 drivers side frame has the Ebrake cables and some bracketry that complicates use on drivers side. I had the opportunity to install one but didnt-specifically where its supposed to go on passenger side , forward of spring perch rear of T/L camper mount plate, is where my air tank is-plus as you noted a lot more wireing. Everything; charge lines, source, camper batts, wireing is on drivers side.
To utlize on drivers side would require some custom standoffs and cutting/ extending the TL clamp bits to reach, doable if I had a tl bracket to start otherwise just making one easier. I abandoned the whole project due mostly to mian camper battery dumped and some other issues.

Are we overlooking the simple and obvious? After doing some digging around, I noticed that the power lead on the trailer/truck camper hookup is only hot when truck is on. What if I was to put an extra deep cycle battery in between the truck plug and the power converter. Then I could just shut off the fridge when camper is not in use so it doesn't try to run off of 12v when in storage?

In theory, the truck would charge the battery and the camper would use the battery? am I too far fetched, do I need the solenoid?

Thank you.

I take it there are complications with installing the TL battery clamp on the driver's side? I have a 2000 F350. My house battery is on the drivers side. Running battery cable over there from the passenger side could get expensive.

Hmm run ours on 12v on the road since 2001. Ive done a few different mods making it easier, switch off/on from inside truck, upgraded wiring etc. It is the least effciant source. Personally I wouldnt consider a non 3 way. But it does require diligence or setting up to use. But I think the main topic is adding a battery. What OP does with it?

As to the TL mount it clamps to frame. Fairly straight forward design, on the ford its on passenger side.

Tooldad, look at the back compartment of your fridge. You might be able to disconnect the lead from your main PC board to the 12v heating element, at either end.

I have an upgraded Dinosaur P-711 board and there is a separate 12v connection for running the 12v options BESIDES THE HEATING ELEMENT in the fridge. I just leave that connected.

whizbang wrote:
tooldad,

You absolutely must disable the 12V frig operation. The current drain is enough to kill whatever battery you have it connected too --- especially your truck battery. 12v frig operation is a cruel joke that the RV manufacturers pull on the unsuspecting public. Seriously, you have to have a Diesel Pusher with multiple house batteries in order to successfully run a 12V frig.

Would it be helpful if I took photos of my battery install?

I had to rebuild my cooling system on my fridge and as it does not need 12V to run I did not reconnect the 12V lines when I reinstalled it. A little extra security in case I should do something stupid like turn it to that setting.

I also recommend if your fridge does not need 12V to disconnect it.

I do not have a 3 way fridge and would not even consider it.

Jim

I have a newer camper with a auto/manual fridge setting. In auto mode when engine is running the fridge is on 12v, turn the engine off and it switches to propane, plug the camper in to shore power or gen and it switches to 110v. Since operating on propane is the most efficient mode, when really hot I manually override the controls and stay on propane.