water heater malfunction

[clipper1014]

I have a 2017 Jay Feather TT. I came with an Atwood 6A-7 6 Gallon manual light water Heater. I replaced it with an Atwood model G6a-8e-sp with the spark ignition and an Atwood control switch. The power for the ignition is from the lighting circuit at the converter. It worked just fine on our first trips then on a month-long trip to Indiana about half way into the trip it quit. Once home I took it to the Atwood dealer. They diagnosed it as a faulty circuit board and replaced it. On our first trip it heated the water 1st then when re-heating it cycled on-off several times in a 2-minute cycle then went into lock-out mode. When I returned it to the dealer it worked fine for them but replaced the thermostat just in case. At home on shore power it went into lock out again same as before. I returned it and they couldn’t find the problem so I had them install a brand-new water heater unit. Brought it home and had same problem. I returned and they replaced the circuit board. Worked fine at shop and on battery power at home. My question is what would cause the circuit board to keep going bad. This is one of 3 boards that have been replaced on my water heaters. Is there something in the converter causing this? Is it where I hooked it up to power? Are Atwood’s just a bad choice for a water heater?

[theoldwizard1]

My daughter's Atwood heater had the same problem. Dealer never really "fixed" it. Remove both thermostats. Clean the thermostat face and where it contacts the tank with a Scotch Brite and spray with brake cleaner before reassembling. Use a 12V test lamp to be sure that both thermostats are closed AND that both gas valves have 12V when the igniter comes on.

Most TT gave a switch/light to show proper or improper (lockout) operation mounted near the sink. Her's still locks out on occasion but they ignore it until they want hot water. Gas heats 6 gallons pretty quick !

[Pauljdav]

When it locks out does it restart when power is turned off then back on?

My new atwood needed the flame separator to he adjusted.

[clipper1014]

Thanks guys

[ScottG]

Unfortunately, when a circuit board has a defective component it can be a common problem and fail on a great number of boards.

[Old-Biscuit]

clipper1014 wrote:
Thanks I have a WFCO model WF-8735P. The heater is on the same line as the bath,bed,slide(I don't have a slideout) & lights. Where do you suggest conecting to?

According to WF all 6 DC circuits are filtered...Clean DC

Measure the AC Ripple on circuit water heater is currently on at the water heater circuit board. (Brown wire)

AC Ripple....measure DC Voltage using AC setting on voltmeter

AC Ripple.....amount of AC Voltage 'bleeding' over into a DC circuit from being converted

AC Ripple higher then 1V AC will cause issues

IF the current circuit being used for water heater has AC Ripple ....measure the other circuits at DC Panel and swap to the one that has lowest AC Ripple

[clipper1014]

So what is a "Filtered Circuit"? So this would be a Ref or heater circuit?

[newman_fulltime]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
High AC Ripple will cause DC circuit board failures

Unfiltered DC will cause circuit board failures

All of the individual DC fused circuits are NOT necessarily 'filtered'.

Lighting circuits do not NEED to be fed from a filtered circuit.

I suspect that is your problem.



What is the Brand/Model of your converter?

SO is this the CORRECT answer?!?!? :B

[newman_fulltime]

get it off the converter and hook to the fridge or heater circuit or direct to the battery

[clipper1014]

Thanks I have a WFCO model WF-8735P. The heater is on the same line as the bath,bed,slide(I don't have a slideout) & lights. Where do you suggest conecting to?

[Old-Biscuit]

High AC Ripple will cause DC circuit board failures

Unfiltered DC will cause circuit board failures

All of the individual DC fused circuits are NOT necessarily 'filtered'.

Lighting circuits do not NEED to be fed from a filtered circuit.

I suspect that is your problem.



What is the Brand/Model of your converter?