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Watts Up installation?

idaho_camper
Explorer
Explorer
Lots of searching didn't turn up very much...

After years of contemplation/procrastination, I want to finally buy a Watts Up meter to monitor EXACTLY how many electrons are stored in my battery bank at any time (we boondocks almost exclusively).

If anyone here has previously installed a Watts Up (or similar product) in a truck camper, can you offer some friendly guidance or advice (I.e. detailed instructions) on how/where to install?

We have a 2009 AF 811

Thanks.
21 REPLIES 21

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
The big reason I went with a Link 10 is because I used to work for Heart Interface back when those meter came out - a sister company manufactured them: Cruising Equipment. Their version was called the E-meter. CECO and Heart got swallowed up by Xantrex in about 2001.

I also like how the Link 10 ( and Link Lite, Link Pro) are more compact than the Trimetric meter.

The Link 10 will become more accurate over time, because it performs some pretty complex mathematical calculations that occur as the battery is recharging.

It monitors the battery bank efficiency, and makes adjustments to a number (via those complex calculations) called the CEF, or Charge Efficiency Factor.

It stores historical data too:
Average depth of Discharge
Deepest depth of Discharge
and I forget what else....
It's been a while since I used all those functions.
I used to remember that stuff like the back of my hand - when I was fielding tech support calls on them.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

AnEv942
Nomad
Nomad
I assume originally referring to the Watts Up or Doc Watson meter.
http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com/electrical-test-equipment.html. There is a lot of info on that site regarding those (and similar meters).
They are nice lil meters, they have their place, and there are bazillions of cheap knock offs. I installed cheapest 'Watts Up' knock off I could find with a metal case that can be opened. It was added exclusively to monitor inverter use. I might add another to Solar output. But its not a Tri Metric etc.

For battery monitoring, main issue is the watt meters are NOT bi-directional. Meaning; to monitor both in&out requires 2 meters, still cheaper than say a Trimetric etc, however depends on the information you want.

Second issue the shunt is built in, limits remote reading location without adding a lot of wire on main ground, or placing in a not so convenient location. As you ascertained, yes they (Watts Up etc)need to be mounted in line with your ground, (positive can be tapped from anywhere). Its possible to convert (some) to external shunt but another whole subject..probably do not want to go there. Lots of info out there as these are used a lot on electric bikes-etc
I didn't find a lot when looking using the watt meters so didn't pursue. Note: ANY & ALL of the different watt meters are rated half continuously of advertised rating ie the 100amp'Watts Up' is good for 50 amp continuously, though likely a non issue in a TC.

related watt meter threads
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23660840.cfm
example of 2 watt meters
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25049072.cfm.
http://www.classbforum.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=11853#p11853
01 Ford F250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page http://www.ourelkhorn.itgo.com

kohldad
Explorer III
Explorer III
You are right for the Trimetric. I'll throw out three votes for it as my family has three TCs all with a Trimetric.

Best Converter is a good source for the TriMetric.

While the display doesn't increase accuracy, you can go with a 100A shunt vice the 500A shunt, assuming your system will be under the shunt's limit.

However, I've found the accuracy of the 500A shunt to be good enough.
2015 Ram 3500 4x4 Crew Cab SRW 6.4 Hemi LB 3.73 (12.4 hand calc avg mpg after 92,000 miles with camper)
2004 Lance 815 (prev: 2004 FW 35'; 1994 TT 30'; Tents)

idaho_camper
Explorer
Explorer
If I understand the literature correctly...

Watts Up is connected/mounted in-line with the main power supply.

Trimetric monitoring box can be mounted ANYWHERE and connects to the shunt (to be installed in or near the battery box) via the very long 35' cable.

Do I have that correct?

SCVJeff
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi Jeff,

Good to know that. Thanks! Do you have a link to the Magnum gauge? Does it require a shunt?
needs a shunt. The is the BMK add-on module to the Magnum inverter chargers, so you need that 1st.
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi Jeff,

Good to know that. Thanks! Do you have a link to the Magnum gauge? Does it require a shunt?
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

msiminoff
Explorer II
Explorer II
As others have mentioned, the Trimetric is an excellent all-around solution for monitoring a TC's electrical system... I can't imagine not having one.

LED lights obviously have a very low amp draw. Does the Trimetric have sensitivity to these levels?

Yes, the TriMetric offers good sensitivity however the resolution of the display is limited to 0.1 units for Volts, Amps and AH (for me this is the TM's Achilles heel). Typically this resolution is sufficient however, as you can see in the photo below, I also use a precision digital Voltmeter to keep an eye on voltage.



If you're handy, installation of the TriMetric is a breeze; First locate an appropriate place to month the unit... Note that it can be mounted in an (included) enclosure on nearly any surface or flush-mounted in a panel. To monitor current, you'll need to install a shunt in your the negative battery lead, then run wires from the shunt to the monitor and from the battery (bank?) to the monitor. Then just connect the wires, program the TriMetric according the the included instructions and you'll be good to go.

Cheers,
-Mark
'04 Alpenlite Saratoga 935, 328W of solar, 300Ah Odyssey batt's, Trimetric, Prosine 2.0
05 Ram3500, Cummins,Vision 19.5 w/M729F's, Dynatrac Hubs, RR airbags w/ping tanks, Superhitch, Roadmaster Swaybar, Rancho RS9000XL
The Overlhander Blog

RICKIM
Explorer III
Explorer III
I put in the Trimetric a few years ago when I added solar. Highly recommend it!

Your able to select the status you want, as far as having the lights on or off.
I monitor the % of battery almost all the time and then turn it off at night.
Haven't really noticed the amount of sensitivity to it.

I didn't like the way AF did their layout for the monitoring area, so I made a new control panel and re-did it.



Good luck,
Rick
2018 AF1140DB, 400W solar, Trimetric, Lifeline GPL-31XTโ€™s, rear deck,
2019 5500 Ram Crew, DRW, 6.7L-CTD, Custom TC bed, on board air, Front Rack

narcodog
Explorer II
Explorer II
The Trimetric does have that sensitivity. You can also turn the LED's off. I will also say that the Battery Minder draws more amps with the light on then you would think. I have mine connected to the battery under the hood. I don't drive my truck that often so I disconnect the BM when not in use.

bka0721
Explorer II
Explorer II
Yep I am, and have been all my life, obsessed with data and the watching trends and changes of so many things. I have tracked my solar harvesting for 4 years now. But this monitoring provides many benefits and less surprise, especially in determining when your batteries are slowly failing. Not something you wish to know the day after let home for a long awaited trip in your Truck Camper.





Many TC owners just plug and go. One of my best friends does just that. He relies on the idiot lights that were installed by his camper manufacturer. Most of us know this is the last thing one wants to use to be aware of their battery charged condition. Simply monitoring your battery at the beginning of the day and end of the day gives you a lot of warning in how you need to adjust that dayโ€™s charging needs.

Also, keeping your installation clean and simple will just add to the appearance of your vehicle rather than detract.

b
08 F550-4X4-CC-6.4L Dsl-206"WB GVWR17,950#
09 Lance 1191
1,560wSolar~10-6vGC2-1,160AmpH~Tri-Star-Two(2)60/MPPT~Xantrex 2000W
300wSolar~2-6vAGM-300AmpH~Tri-Star45/MPPT~Xantrex 1500W
16 BMW R1200GSW Adventure
16 KTM 500 EXC
06 Honda CRF450X
09 Haulmark Trlr

CarryOn
Explorer
Explorer
Battery monitors are very useful. They will show how many amp-hours
you are using and have used since the last charge of your battery.

I have used a Link 10 for years on a boat and recently installed
a Victron BMV-700 in my Lance.

Here is a link for the Victron
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=51924

It was a very easy install and yes it will show the amp draw from
an LED light. Any draw from one tenth of an amp.

Mike M
1999 Lance 1030
2006 F350 SRW 6.0L

idaho_camper
Explorer
Explorer
I do like the looks of the Trimetric.

Question for those who currently have one. LED lights obviously have a very low amp draw. Does the Trimetric have sensitivity to these levels?

SCVJeff
Explorer
Explorer
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Victron and Smartgauge are both better than the trimetric. Smartgauge is an adaptive system that becomes more accurate the longer it is in use. The others do not do that.
if you're referring to adaptive SOC, the Magnum does that and it's the only way I would run it.
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
The TriMetric Battery Monitor has worked well for me since about 2006. I have played with it in an effort to learn everything it does. I gotta say, it absolutely tells me everything I want to know, and a couple of things could care less about. It can be surface mounted or recessed. It also has a lightening protector available as an add on.

Mine is the older version of the TM2020. This link will provide its features. It is even made in the USA.

Wayne


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke