What exactly does the brake controller do?

If the boost function is on, the trailer brakes will apply early, this helps when going down steep grades but on flat surfaces your brakes will feel sensitive. I usually turn boost off until I need it. Also the trailer brakes become more sensitive when they heat up so when you do your roll check they are cold then you drive around and they heat up becoming a little more sensitive. I usually just drop the voltage a little to adjust. Also your brakes will heat up while in the city but cool on the highway making them fell more sensitive in areas where you stop and go a lot. I use a p3 but I am sure the p2 is similar.

The Prodigy controller is the best "feeling" controller I've used. Once it is set correctly, there should be a seamless integration between the towing vehicle and the trailer. I know some folks like to set them more sensitive so that the trailer brakes are felt when the brake pedal is pushed. IMO, that's making the trailer's brakes do to much of the work but it's different strokes territory.

It's common to have the controller put more braking on the trailer when road conditions warrant, ie. ice and snow. In those situations, the more sensitive trailer's braking system will keep the load pulled from affecting the tow vehicle, i.e. keep the truck straight.

Rmack1 wrote:

spike99 wrote:

If one does 5 mph and slams on the brakes, the brake controller may decide NOT to send any current to its trailer wheels. Thus, it feels like only the TV's brakes are working. When testing "inertia technology" Brake Controllers (like Prodigy 2 models), do test when driving above 20+ miles per hour.

Hope this overview helps.

I'm still not completely clear on this, if you would be so kind as to elaborate.

What would cause the controller to send or not send current at 5 mph, or any speed for that matter? Is it because 5 mph is too slow for an accurate test?

For a comparison of Time Delay and Proportional (aka: Inertia Activiated) BCs, surf:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wkoNcYfn7l4

As stated in this video, press slowly on the brake pedal and very little current. Press hard on the peddle (like hard or panic stops), more current flow.

If one has a Time Delay BC, I highly recommend replacing with proportional BC - like Prodigy P2 / P3 models.

First you need to learn how the controller works and set it properly. I think your on your way there. If you still have problems with intermittent hard trailer braking after that you may have a wiring problem.

thomasmnile wrote:

aftermath wrote:
I also have a P2 and it has been great for me. The P2 is a proportional controller which means that it applies the brakes at varying rates. When you do a panic stop inertia throws you forward and the controller measures this and brakes accordingly. When traveling at 5 mph I doubt that you are dealing with much inertia. I don't have my directions in front of me but I seem to remember it saying something about driving at least 20mph on a level service to test the sensitivity and set the controller.

Here is another thing to look at. Do you use the Boost Settings? If you have the boost off, the controller will not impact you with full force stopping power until the inertial signal demands it. As you increase the boost, the amount of power sent to the brakes increases at the start.

I will increase the boost when coming down steep mountain passes. I want the brakes to be working now, rather than later when I might have to stand on them. In normal driving a lower boost setting or none at all might be better.

X2. The instruction for my P3 recommend bringing your vehicle speed up to 20-25 mph to test the trailer braking.

Yeah, mine does too. I was probably superimposing camp ground speed limit signs over my memory of the instructions, which I follow every time.:S

aftermath wrote:
I also have a P2 and it has been great for me. The P2 is a proportional controller which means that it applies the brakes at varying rates. When you do a panic stop inertia throws you forward and the controller measures this and brakes accordingly. When traveling at 5 mph I doubt that you are dealing with much inertia. I don't have my directions in front of me but I seem to remember it saying something about driving at least 20mph on a level service to test the sensitivity and set the controller.

Here is another thing to look at. Do you use the Boost Settings? If you have the boost off, the controller will not impact you with full force stopping power until the inertial signal demands it. As you increase the boost, the amount of power sent to the brakes increases at the start.

I will increase the boost when coming down steep mountain passes. I want the brakes to be working now, rather than later when I might have to stand on them. In normal driving a lower boost setting or none at all might be better.

X2. The instruction for my P3 recommend bringing your vehicle speed up to 20-25 mph to test the trailer braking.

Yes homework is beneficial. you will learn a lot about the braking system, from the controller to the trailer brakes! once you understand how it works you will be able to adjust the controller to where the trailer brakes with the truck.

Good luck!

I think something like 99% of the trailers out there have electrical braking systems. I know there are some hydraulic ones but they are in the minority.

When you hit the brakes your controller sends an electrical signal to your brakes. Some do this smoothly and efficiently while others don't do such a good job. I think the Prodigy P2 and P3 are very good ones. Take some time to fine tune yours and I think you will be happy with it.

aftermath wrote:
I also have a P2 and it has been great for me. The P2 is a proportional controller which means that it applies the brakes at varying rates. When you do a panic stop inertia throws you forward and the controller measures this and brakes accordingly. When traveling at 5 mph I doubt that you are dealing with much inertia. I don't have my directions in front of me but I seem to remember it saying something about driving at least 20mph on a level service to test the sensitivity and set the controller.

Here is another thing to look at. Do you use the Boost Settings? If you have the boost off, the controller will not impact you with full force stopping power until the inertial signal demands it. As you increase the boost, the amount of power sent to the brakes increases at the start.

I will increase the boost when coming down steep mountain passes. I want the brakes to be working now, rather than later when I might have to stand on them. In normal driving a lower boost setting or none at all might be better.

Yeah, I see exactly what you are saying.

It's all about the fact that my TT has an electric braking system. I just got finished watching the video, and realize I need to do more homework on this subject.

I just wanted to again express how much I appreciate this board. You guys have for sure saved me from serious property loss, and most probably my family's life on more than one occasion!

I also have a P2 and it has been great for me. The P2 is a proportional controller which means that it applies the brakes at varying rates. When you do a panic stop inertia throws you forward and the controller measures this and brakes accordingly. When traveling at 5 mph I doubt that you are dealing with much inertia. I don't have my directions in front of me but I seem to remember it saying something about driving at least 20mph on a level service to test the sensitivity and set the controller.

Here is another thing to look at. Do you use the Boost Settings? If you have the boost off, the controller will not impact you with full force stopping power until the inertial signal demands it. As you increase the boost, the amount of power sent to the brakes increases at the start.

I will increase the boost when coming down steep mountain passes. I want the brakes to be working now, rather than later when I might have to stand on them. In normal driving a lower boost setting or none at all might be better.