What's the best way to heat camper between uses

[bkenobi]

My NL camper doesn't have an indoor stall to live in, so it's going to be outside and covered with a possible roof. We are just finishing our first weekend in it and I'm noticing how condensation builds overnight. I'll be getting a humidity control on the way back (probably a bucket o' desiccant), but I'm also wondering about the temperature inside.

Do I need to get the temp up so the moisture will evaporate so the desiccant can do its thing? If so, do you suggest using the propane heater or an electric space heater? Propane itself is cheaper, but that adds hours to the furnace and also moisture to the air. Space heaters are inefficient, but for a small space with no wear on the camper it actually could be the cost effective approach.

[JimK-NY]

As I understand it this thread is about dealing with humidity when the camper is not being used. I have never had an issue. I sometimes run a small space heater to keep the camper about 40 degrees. Other times I have just left the camper closed up. I have never seen any sign of humidity issues. Using the camper in cold weather is a whole different matter. Cooking, breathing, and sweating can generate a lot of humidity.

[pianotuna]

4 pints a day is useless. Currently in FL I'm emptying the bucket 3 times per day, or about 60 pints.

The roof air can be used to dry air by operating a 1000 watt heater and forcing the AC to run.

bkenobi wrote:
Since now is when the box stores are clearing out space heaters, I'm going to look into a compact oil based space heater and using it with one of those thermo-plugs.

I see that HD sells two sizes of dehumidifiers. One pulls 4-pints a day and the other pulls 50-pints! If I can find one in the store, I may go with the smaller one but I'm not sure moisture will be that big an issue after all. We didn't "dry" the camper after the last use and when I went in there throughout this week to clean and prep for next weekend it already looks dry (no condensation). I imagine going in and out has been enough to vent it.

OH, I just remembered I never mentioned my A/C. I would have preferred the fan, but this TC came with a Carrier Air V A/C unit installed. Can that be used to dry the air? If so, think it would be better than other options? I assume not since it's got no automatic settings and would add wear to an expensive component rather than just using a portable/replaceable appliance instead.

[bkenobi]

Since now is when the box stores are clearing out space heaters, I'm going to look into a compact oil based space heater and using it with one of those thermo-plugs.

I see that HD sells two sizes of dehumidifiers. One pulls 4-pints a day and the other pulls 50-pints! If I can find one in the store, I may go with the smaller one but I'm not sure moisture will be that big an issue after all. We didn't "dry" the camper after the last use and when I went in there throughout this week to clean and prep for next weekend it already looks dry (no condensation). I imagine going in and out has been enough to vent it.

OH, I just remembered I never mentioned my A/C. I would have preferred the fan, but this TC came with a Carrier Air V A/C unit installed. Can that be used to dry the air? If so, think it would be better than other options? I assume not since it's got no automatic settings and would add wear to an expensive component rather than just using a portable/replaceable appliance instead.

[bkenobi]

PNW here too. I am on a hill that gets down to 20s for 1-2 weeks a couple times each winter. Other than that, I'm in the 30-45 range for the winter. I'm going to winterize but since the wife is highly allergic to mold, I've got to be careful.

[Fisher_Bill]

Space heater set at the lowest setting, then I don't have to drain water out of system and everything stays dry with vents cracked open.

If it wasn't for the 72 hours of freezing temperatures in the PNW I would probably just use a fan.

[ctilsie242]

I'd probably recommend a combination of two solutions:

1: The above Thermocube with a space heater.
2: A dehumidifier. Not the ones that use a peltier system and remove water from the air by the teaspoon, but the ones that have a compressor, use 800-1500 watts, and yank it out by the pint.

From there, leave a vent open.

One person I know made a box that fits atop his roof vent that has filters on all sides (and is rain resistant.) He then runs the fan in reverse, pulling air in during the Texas summer. This not just keeps the dust and sand at bay, but insects like mosquitos and moths tend not to be able to get in due to the positive pressure out the windows and cracks.

[bkenobi]

Good info, thanks for the input. I guess everyone has their own method, but the main point is:
* propane isn't the best option
* don't seal it up
* vent if at all possible
* try to stay above dew point
* dehumidifiers work better than desiccant
* moisture is mostly from living in it

[kohldad]

Oh yeah, when you take a shower, make sure to fully open the vent and turn the fan on to move maximum air.

[kohldad]

You are seeing condensation of the moisture from your breathing and cooking. If you leave a lower point and upper point open, you will get enough of a draft to pull the moisture out of the camper.

I've never used a dehumidifier and never had a problem with condensation on anything but windows. If I notice condensation on the windows, then I know I need to crack the vent a bit more. Usually the cab over window is cracked about 1/4" and the roof vent about 1/4 turn. Yes, it cost a little bit of heat, but not much and you shouldn't feel a draft.

When cooking, I try to crack the window behind the sink and open the roof vent an extra couple turns. If I stand back, I can actually watch the steam coming off the pot drifting up to the roof vent.

On the road, I use a combination of furnace and 600 watt electric heater. Electric when I have hookups and furnace without.

[theoldwizard1]

Do NOT use a propane heater unless it is VENTED. A ventless propane heater ADDS moisture !

[Camper_Jeff___K]

I leave a 4 foot electric baseboard heater on whenever not in use keeping the TC at 60 degrees. The electric heat dries things out. It's shore power and I hardly notice the electric bill. When camping, if cold out, the heat is on at 60 or more degrees. I like and can afford my comfort. On hot days or nights, the Fantastic Vent is on doing it's thing. Solar covers that usage. Result, rarely is there condensation except right on the bottom edges of the windows during the cold.

[KD4UPL]

The last thing I'd use is the LP furnace. Electric heat if you really feel you need to heat it.
LP is cheaper? I'm curious. How do you figure? Are you going to be running off of one of those large 100lb cylinders or something? Around here it costs about $18 to fill a 20lb LP cylinder. That makes for 430,000 BTH so about 24,000 BTU for a dollar. Electricity costs about $.12 per kWh. A kWh is about 3,400 BTU so about 27,000 BTU for a dollar. Not only that, the electric heater will be 100% efficient, the LP furnace will blow lots of BTUs out the exhaust.

[jimh406]

I use vent covers and leave the vents open.

[elivi8]

Let it breathe. Open the vents to make sure the temp is the same inside and out. I have done this for 6 years and no smell, no moisture and no damage.